POR-15 Chassis sealer advice?

[Eminoff]

I will soon be starting the daunting task of completing sealing the rear end of a 37 Packard with POR-15 chassis sealer. I know I have to put on two prep coats of POR-15 paint (think, black paint) and then a coat of the chassis sealer. I have wire brushed most of the surfaces that I will be working on and will be finishing up the wire brushing prep when I can.

My question is if any of you have done this, do you have any tips for me? I have never done this before so I am flying blind, any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[JFranklin]

I used por15 and it worked ok but I had a problem with fish eye and had to sand the first try down and it does cure very hard. I asked the rep and he said maybe there was silicone or something contaminating but I kind of doubt it. ask your supplier about this and see what he says. I used the por 15 on clean sandblasted wheels.

[Tom M]

Hi Eric,

I have been using POR-15 and the POR-15 Chassis coat on parts for my 1931 Packard. I found spraying the parts come out much better then brushing it on. Brushing for me it ran too much especially when the brush would go over an edge or holes that may be in the parts.

Also prep is the key. I found that parts that are sand blasted or have a roughness to them it sticks much better.

Attach picture is some of the parts that I have completed.

[Ron Green]

I have had great success with POR-15 on undercarriages, bilge areas, wheel wells, chassis parts, etc. Key is prep which takes many many hours if you want a perfect finish. I used a 3M paint remover wheel and took all to bare metal. I then used POR etch (after a good cleaning) to adhere the POR coating which I rolled it on with a small foam roller. Rolling gives a sprayed on finish and eliminates having to tape and worry about over spray.

I never top coated the POR finish the sun didn't shine on and so far it still looks fresh after 3 years. POR cures through moisture and not heat as many think. If doing large areas it is important if applying 2 coats to spread them at equal thickness, plus the 1st coat has to be in the same state of cure or you will get different shades (lighter / darker).

There has been many posts on POR-15. You may want to do a search on these forms and see was has been discussed.

[Eminoff]

Thanks all for the comments so far. From what I have read here, my problem will be prep. I can't sandblast the car car or anything since I am working on a car that is already partially painted and I simply don't have the equipment to do so. I put some of POR-15 on a very rusty gas tank after only brush sanding it, and it worked very well, but that was on a much smaller area that the region I will be dealing with. I'll definitely look around the forums more for additional info.

Just one question though. I understand that between the 1st and 2nd coat of POR-15, you need to wait a certain amount of time. Too little and it won't harden too much and...well, I don't know since Idon't know when 'too much' is defined by? Thanks in advance

[Ron Green]

Though they give you explicit instructions I waited over night between coats. A different temperature, humidity, etc will create shading on occasion as I stated depending on all of these.

I too used POR on a car that was already done (painted, etc) so I taped off the car so dirt and stuff wouldn't harm what was in decent condition (see attachment). I did a Amphicar (driver) and didn't want to lose its use so the 1st winter I did the inside of the bilge and engine compartment. The second winter I did the underneath, wheel wells, etc. The 3rd winter I did the front trunk area. The 3M paint and rust removal wheels really work but make a mess.

[Tom M]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> A different temperature, humidity, etc will create shading on occasion as I stated depending on all of these.

</div></div> Ron is correct on this one. I had shading problems with the Prep POR-15 but I didn?t worry too much about it because like you I used the Chassis Coat for the top coat.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Though they give you explicit instructions I waited over night between coats</div></div> Ron gave me this advice when I first using it and it workout well. I did try the 4-5 hour window as the directions state and did not notice any difference on how it laid down. If you go any longer then 24hrs I suggest wet sanding it just to play it safe.

[Tom M]

Here is a picture of some more parts painted. If you like I can post some more.