Outrageous AC Estimate!!

[CReichert]

Went to the Buick dealer to have my R-12 AC recharged. As always I expected a higher than normal estimate for the recharge. Turns out, they were quite reasonable on their estimate for the R12. However, upon trying to charge the AC, they found that I have a hole in the condensor. The part and labor is estimated at $1100. Can anyone tell me if there is another fix other than buying a new condensor? Can't the hole be repaired or plugged? <P>Thanks in advace,<BR>CTR

[Guest]

Just spent $880 on my A/C for a new Evaporator at my local garage.

[Howard]

Go to <A HREF="http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=selectTree&CatalogID=1&siteid=809." TARGET=_blank>http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=selectTree&CatalogID=1&siteid=809.</A> They show the part for a little over $200.00. I have never done business with this firm, but if you have the part #www.gmpartsdirect.com should have a good price too. I have done business with them, and had a very good experience. $1100 appears very high for both parts and labor. Howard

[padgett]

Are two ways of looking at a/c problems<BR>1) if you have your own R-12, recovery unit, and vaccuum device, then a compressor is U$149-U$179 reman and $300 new for an HR-6. Dryer/tube is a buck as is a hose/manifold assy, and condensor/evaporator are two each.<P>2) if you go to a shop and expect a warrenty (year is typical) then they are going to charge list (about double above), add at least a half day labor (@$75/hour) and try very hard to get you to agree to a changeover to R-134A (mainly because they will loose all of their margin instantly if you need recharging with R-12 in a year). <P>3) Dealer will probably farm it out to a sub and add their profit which is where U$1100 for a U$500 job comes from.<P>4) Reason you cannot buy a clutch without the compressor (actually you can - U$110-U$140 if you shop around) is because when the clutch goes it often takes the bearing seal with it & shop will likely be back inside in a few months (see disappearing margin above).<P>5) I have a shop in Orlando I trust but no matter what goes rong, it always seems to be U$500. Last time they converted our 90 Bonneville to R-134 and it now has the best a/c of any of our cars.<P>6) YMMV

[Guest]

My condensor was 95.00 from Napa. I get it a little cheaper than someone off the street but I think list was around 140.00. Have any Friends that can help You put it in??

[Guest]

Just replaced compressor and evaporator and had conversion done and new serp. belt all for $725. Condensor is about $300 incl labor.<BR>$1100 is a rip.

[Guest]

I had to replace the clutch on the compressor, which of coarse, you can not replace without replacing the compressor. Parts and Labor, $1100.00. Total rip. And now every time I run the A/C, the CRT Screen displays "Electrical Problem"

[Guest]

I bought my new condenser for $140, it was completely plugged. Installation is also easy. Move radiator back a couple of inches, take old condenser out, put new one in and hook up. I had a shop do the complete changeover, including the condenser, compressor, accumulator and OV, for $450. You may want to check this stuff out in regards ro repairing the aluminum condenser. <A HREF="http://www.durafix.com" TARGET=_blank>www.durafix.com</A>

[Guest Shaffer]

I guess I am lucky. I may be wrong, but my 1972 Buick Electra still has super cold a/c and it still has the original freon in it. The A/C has never been serviced. The original owners son, who I bought the car from said it was 100% original. The A/C never needed any work and it still works fine today. I guess A/C systems was good back then. My grandfathers 72 Buick Skylark also had a good A/C system on it.<p>[ 08-11-2001: Message edited by: Shaffer ]