Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 27, 2006 Posted September 27, 2006 okay everyone I'm going to need some help. My sunroof doesn't work but the motor runs, the passenger side can lift up about 1-2 inches in the back just by me lifting the panel with my hand (not with the motor), but the drivers side barley moves when I lift, took it down, used penetrating spray everywhere and it is still the same. I heard about checking the cables but how do I do that? and should the panel be loose on one side like that. any help would be appreciated as I'm down to only 2 months to finish the important stuff. Thanks
Guest F14CRAZY Posted September 27, 2006 Posted September 27, 2006 I think Reatta.net had a page regarding sunroofs. It sounds like one of your cables has broken. They're crazy expensive, but available for an RX7 from a Mazda dealer (I dunno what years). Could ask Jim Finn too. I haven't really taken a look at these sunroof cables, but maybe they could be replaced with some common Home Depot/Lowes stuff?
Barney Eaton Posted September 27, 2006 Posted September 27, 2006 You will need to remove the unit from your car to replace a cable.So take it out and you can clean and lube the entire assembly.You can also decide if you want to replace the cable or install a good unit from a Mazda.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 27, 2006 Posted September 27, 2006 I have it out of the car now, but the cables are inclosed inside the metal tubing, which I can't figure out how to get to the cables since the panel is pretty much stuck closed.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 28, 2006 Posted September 28, 2006 alright, here's what I got so far. I connected it up outside the car after soaking it in PB, on the side that does not lift freely the visible spring seems to move very little when I press the button, but I don't see the spring move on the side that can freely lift although I do see the metal tubing for the cable move a little. it would seem kind of weird for stuff to be moving if a cable was broken, but I don't know much about these. I guess that I'm praying for the cables to be fine as I don't wana spend $150 for a cable..........Don't worry I'll be of your hair soon <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 28, 2006 Posted September 28, 2006 And by request, here are some pictures. (I'm on my slow computer so they will be attached)
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 What a small world. I was at a meeting tonight and a guy that me and my parents know designed interior parts for the Reatta. After looking at the sunroof he said that it seems like the motor is dying, and its catching on the cables but not enough to move anything, but he also said that he didn't deal with the sunroof's, he did stuff like seats and door panels and the back storage area. Has this happened to anyone?
Barney Eaton Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 My computer died and I have been using whatever I could find to stay intouch.You must remove the cloth part of the moving panel to get to the mounting screws/nuts. The Mazda manual says to grab the front(forward) part of the cloth headliner and pull down and forward. The cloth panel will come off.Look at the motor and you will see there is a hex socket in the motor assembly to allow you to turn the motor manually. You need to turn that to get the sunroof panel off ....this will give you access to the slider mechanism that opens the top. You may need to totally disassembly each side...clean and lubricate the parts to get them back to good original working order.When you have it cleaned and lubed, see if the motor will open it. If there is slippage, there is a clutch adjustment at the motor. The Mazda manual indicates the clutch should be set to 48-65 in-lb.
89REATTAJIM Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What a small world. I was at a meeting tonight and a guy that me and my parents know designed interior parts for the Reatta. After looking at the sunroof he said that it seems like the motor is dying, and its catching on the cables but not enough to move anything, but he also said that he didn't deal with the sunroof's, he did stuff like seats and door panels and the back storage area. Has this happened to anyone? </div></div> No, I never met anyone who designed Reatta parts. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Just kidding, good luck with the sunroof repair, I have never been fortunate enough to deal with one. Barney's post looks to be very informative. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
wellsguy77 Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 Thanks for the pics CL, keep'em commin if you can, helps give me an idea of what i will be dealing with when i start working on the sunroof of my 89.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 Thanks a million. When I go working on it later I will get some pictures. hopefully I'll figure out the problem with my good computer so I can post them instead of attaching them.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 ok, well after twisting the nut and the panel moved a little I have another problem. The drivers side of the panel is moving ok, but the passenger side only moved very little. could it just be that it needs lubrication badly, and if so how do I remove the panel? For now this is my last project that I know nothing about.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 Forget what used to be here, I went with the "no guts no glory" approach and found out how to take it off. now work presses on
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 30, 2006 Posted September 30, 2006 alright, here is where I'm at. The drivers side works with the motor now, except it seems that because the passenger side still isn't the whole assembly wont go up. I do hear what might be some slippage, Where is this clutch adjustment and what do I adjust I with?I am determined to fix this as you can tell.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 30, 2006 Posted September 30, 2006 I believe I found my conclusion. I believe that the cable somehow is stuck/jammed/rusted inside the tubing for it. now I just need to find out how to remove the tubing from the box thing: and it looks like to remove the tubing I need to find a way to remove 2 rivet's which holds the bracket that holds the tubing in place on the inside of that metal thing (I already have everything else apart). I hope I'm wrong but I don't think so. Is there an easier way then this?----Wellsguy77, I will include some pictures later.
Barney Eaton Posted September 30, 2006 Posted September 30, 2006 If you remove the motor, you will find two screws holding the cable-tube housing to the frame.If you have not removed the steel roof panel, you need to do that NOW because everytime you try to open and close the unit with the top panel in place, you put stress on both cables. When you remove the motor, you will see the condition of both the motor gear and the cables. Don't try to do a half-a__ fix, take it apart, clean and lube everything. With the top panel off, you can actuate the sides independantly and feel the resistance, you should get them so they both slide with equal force.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted September 30, 2006 Posted September 30, 2006 Thanks for your help, I have already done all of that except take the panel off. my problem is that the passenger side is not moving at all. kind of hard to explain. I took the metal top off where the metal tubing ends at the panel. and when I move the drivers side the cable moves not the tubing. but when I move the passenger side I can only move it so far because the metal tubing is moving not the cable. its like the cable is jammed somewhere inside the metal tubing.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 1, 2006 Posted October 1, 2006 here is what I mean the cable to the left is not moving as if it is stuck (it controls the passenger side of the panel) while the cable to the right smoothly moves when I move the panel (the drivers side) I would like to know how to get the cable free. if it were broke I would be able to move it by hand but I can't. am I correct?
Guest MauiWowee Posted October 1, 2006 Posted October 1, 2006 This is better <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 1, 2006 Posted October 1, 2006 ah thank you, im on my slow computer so I cant do a lot
wellsguy77 Posted October 2, 2006 Posted October 2, 2006 thanks for the pics CL....so any progess this wknd?
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 2, 2006 Posted October 2, 2006 I did get some progress over the weekend, it just wasn't beneficial, but at least I know how the sunroof operates now. I know what the problem is, but I cant figure out how to fix it. So I decided to just let the salesmen fix it. I have some more pics to post, but have to post them later.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 4, 2006 Posted October 4, 2006 And here are the pictures as promised, keep in mind that I didn't take the panel off, so I couldn't get that area and there might be a few that are already posted. Whole assembly out of carCable at end of copper tubing Where the motor gear goes in looking down the panel track The fun that you get to have when working on the sunroof
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 10, 2006 Posted October 10, 2006 Just got off the phone with the guy fixing the sunroof, he said that it is stuck somewhere in the curve. He soaked it, nothing, then heated it red hot, nothing. now he said he is going to try soaking it overnight again. I have the option to buy one for around 125 plus shipping. Any ideas how a cable can be stuck like that?
Barney Eaton Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 Go to the junkyard and get a used unit from a Mazda RX-7, at this rate, it will be spring before we get this sunroof fixed.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 The $125 is the cost of a whole assembly. No junk yards around me have one so thats why it would come from Ohio. If worse comes to worse I can always wait until sping since it's almost winter.
padgett Posted October 11, 2006 Posted October 11, 2006 If the cable has broken the sharp ends of wire are probably spreading and jamming the cable. Took main force to get mine out. I replaced just the conduit and cables and works fine now.
wellsguy77 Posted October 13, 2006 Posted October 13, 2006 Thanks for the pics CL, those helped a lot and after seeing all that I decided to just let my mechanic take care of the s/r. Do you have any contact information for the company that will charge 125.00 for the complete unit new? I talked to my mechanic about taking a unit from a Mazada and sticking it in the car and he told me it is a toss up because ur taking a used piece of equipment from another 17yr old car, and it may work for a long time or it could break down in a couple of months, then u have to replace it again. So in my personal opinion I would just go with the new unit, that does not sound like such a bad price, since at some places I have heard it could cost 150.00 for just a cable.
Barney Eaton Posted October 13, 2006 Posted October 13, 2006 It's not the mechanics money. It is also quicker for him to put in a new one than use an old unit.First I like the challange of fixing things and also like to analize why they failed. If you get a used cable and sheith, I would take them apart and clean and inspect (your mechanic doesn't want to do that) A well lubricated cable will not break or seize.The mechanic is correct on one point, the units are 16+ years old. They should be completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected and lubricated. You can mix and match the good parts.Price... a Reatta owner in Arkansas told me the yard pulled the Mazda sunroof and delivered it for $100. If you live near a U-Pull yard, you can probably get one for half that price.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 13, 2006 Posted October 13, 2006 Oh, sorry if I made that a little to confusing. The $125 is for a used unit from a "used auto parts dealer" a.k.a. junk yard. For some reason Reatta's are unpopular in my area (Ive never seen one on the road). so that's why I can't just go down to my local junk yard and get one.
Barney Eaton Posted October 15, 2006 Posted October 15, 2006 Michigan has lots of Reattas. There were over 60 at the Homecoming last month...I know, many were from out of state.I'm not talking a Reatta sunroof, but a Mazda sunroof. Only about 15% of the Reattas had sunroofs, so even if you find a Reatta in a junkyard, it probably won't have a sunroof. I think 100% of the RX-7's had sunroofs.I probably noted this earlier, but the RX-7 and Reatta sunroof share all the parts except the metal top panel and the switch assembly. There have been several Reatta owners put RX-7 sunroofs (complete) in their Reattas.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted October 15, 2006 Posted October 15, 2006 I know that there are lots of Reatta's in Michigan in general, as I have seen them in different parts, but in the Detroit area they are not common on the road. I priced all of the RX-7 sunroof's around me and they all run in the low-mid $100's, plus the modifications that would need to be done. That is why $125 sounds like the best deal to me.
Guest suwonkil Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Hello.. I hope it is okay to ask a sunroof question here. Let me know if I should start a new thread. First of all, the information in this forum was very helpful, and I appreciate all who put valuable information here. Following the headlamp job, I went after the sun-roof, which never worked. It is down, the top panel is off, and now I can access the rail mechanism on both sides. The driver side cable got freed after a few impacts on it. Some WD40 and other lube made it move with less friction. The passanger side is not moving at all, and I am thinking I should disassemble the rail. There are a few screws where the cable tubing ends, and a few more on the rail, and the rail end. Could anyone let me know what I need to do step by step to take this rail off? Thanks~
Barney Eaton Posted May 30, 2014 Posted May 30, 2014 I have never seen a step by step instruction and have never looked for a Utube video. Look for a Utube post for a Mazda, more likely to find that than a Reatta. Take some photos before you take it apart. Start by getting the stuck tube and cable out of the unit. If you cannot free it...... you will need to remove it anyway for replacement.Your other option is to go to a Pick n pull and pull out a RX-7 Mazda unit (same vintage as our cars late '80's) Take the Mazda unit apart at the yard and get the tube and cable..... now you have experience before tearing your apart.
Barney Eaton Posted May 30, 2014 Posted May 30, 2014 Attached is an explosed view of the sunroof from the Mazda parts book.
padgett Posted May 30, 2014 Posted May 30, 2014 See section 8A-122 (electrical) and 10-8-21 (mechanical) in the '89 FSM downloadable from reatta.net.
Guest Dan Gibbs Posted May 31, 2014 Posted May 31, 2014 Hey Suwonkil Keep yer chin up with the sunroof! I'm basically in the same boat as you. I bought my '89 (Blue in the signature pic below) three years ago - the guy I bought it from had already removed the sunroof (slightly rusty panel) years ago to "tinker" with it and ended up losing valuable parts for the mechanism (which had seized-up closed), sealing rubber trim, and to top it off, the interior headliner.Then, I located a used but rustfree sunroof assembly in Grand Rapids, MI (about a five hour round-trip drive) - when I got there, some chucklehead had dropped another car on top of the Reatta parts car and made a nice Vee out of the roof. I still took all of the parts, including the headliner.In 2012, I found another sunroof assembly on Craigslist in Pennsylvania for $50. Of course when it got here, the sunroof panel was rusty and sounds like a maraca if you shake it hehehe.Anyway, I'm still trying to figure out the "material" name of the drive-cable itself in order that I can find the company that manufactures it. If I can find the RAW cable, I can rebuild MY cable assemblies. Other than a few broken plastic guide-rollers, the rest of my parts are in good shape and cleaned up real nice once I disassembled the assembly and the tracks.All I can tell you is take you time and TAKE PHOTOS as you disassemble your assembly. There are only two rivets in the whole assembly that need to be drilled out - the two on the tube mating plate that mounts to the drive motor. Do yourself a favor and don't keep trying to loosen a seized cable by working it with the motor - you'll probably strip the drive gear or the internal reduction gear and that is a whole other animal to find. Remember there were only about 15% of roughly 21,000 of Reatta's made with a sunroof - roughly 3110 made and I'm guessing alot of those are long gone.Also, be careful during disassembly with regards to the curved black airfoil. It is on the front of the assembly and normally pops up when the sunroof is deployed and working fine. There are a few plastic pieces on either end that I broke by accident AFTER removing. They are a bit brittle due to age.By the way, our sunroofs were made by Webasto, and they're still in business although they are an OEM and don't deal with the public as far as I know.I'm still determined to find that dog-gone raw cable and the proper sized cable guide-tubing.Dan
Barney Eaton Posted May 31, 2014 Posted May 31, 2014 To refresh the 8 year old post........ Webasco made the Reatta sunroof, they also made the Mazda RX-7 sunroof. All the sunroof parts are the same with the exception of the top panel (they have different contour) and the control switch. The headliner would have been made in the US so it would color match.You can put a Mazda RX-7 sunroof in a Reatta. Several Reatta owners have done it and the only modification to the unit are.... the Mazda has a couple of metal tabs that need to be cut off. you need to drill the mounting holes in the sunroof for the Reatta dome light. If I forgot anything feel free to add or modify.
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