novaman Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Might want to watch where that air intake is located so it don't suck exhaust fumes easily. You might be in there running the A/C of the battery, but John Doe might be in his truck next to you running it to use his A/C to cool off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shop Rat Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Barry,Sounds great. Too bad you don't have room for the system that is in our RV. It is called TruAir and is like a home heat pump. It is so much better/quieter than the old style roof air conditioners.Oh, and novaman has a very good point about others around you. A couple years ago some folks died in the "campground" area at the Bristol Dragway due to carbon monoxide poisoning. The dragstrip area is where people can camp for the NASCAR events. Now they have to have a snorkel on the generators and they have to shut them off at night. If you don't have a carbon monoxide sensor for the Toy Box yet you should add that. Our's went off in our race/camper trailer one day at the track. We weren't in the camper area and did not realize that the person beside us had their generator exhaust pointed at our rig. The alarm alerted us so that we could go in and open the windows and ask the guy to move his generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 While the intake will take cooler air from under the trailer, that air does not enter the air condioner airflow into the cabin. Its only to cool the condenser coil and that air does not enter the cabin. The cabin air is simply recirculated pulling humidity out each time it passes the coil.The rest of the trailer is totally sealed from the outside. The windows don't open and the wall cavities will be filled with foam. The holes in the floor will be sealed and the belly pan will keep out any unwanted fumes.I will definitely take your advice on the carbon monoxide detector. We don't really plan on sleeping in this thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shop Rat Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will definitely take your advice on the carbon monoxide detector. We don't really plan on sleeping in this thing.</div></div>I wasn't sleeping in ours when the detector went off, even though I have been known to take a nap before the practices start. So I could have been overcome and not known it. Luckily we were in the back cargo area talking with other drivers when it went off.Glad to hear you will play it safe. Sure would hate to lose you or even for you to become ill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caf Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Hi Barry; One question pops up when I see the enginering drawings, that is, with the weight of a vehicle in the rear, how do you intend to keep it from fishtailing at speeds over 45 mph? Doesn't seem like you will have anywhere enough tongue weight. Any ideas?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 When my wife and I bought our first house we were almost killed by CM poisioning. Had our dog not awakened us we would be dead.We bought our first house on a land contract (33 years ago) so there was no city or mortgage inspection.Turns out the dufus that owned the house installed a power humidifyer on the cold air return of the furnace. This was an older oil conversion furnace and the flue pipe passed right through the cold air return, supposedly to act as a preheat for the incoming air. The installation of the humidifyer caused very moist air to be constantly blown at the steel pipe. Eventually the corrosion got so bad that holes opened up, causing the hot exhaust to be sucked into the heated air stream. When the gas company discovered what was wrong I was amazed to see a piece of steel that looked like Swiss cheese. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi Barry; One question pops up when I see the enginering drawings, that is, with the weight of a vehicle in the rear, how do you intend to keep it from fishtailing at speeds over 45 mph? Doesn't seem like you will have anywhere enough tongue weight. Any ideas?? </div></div>Ahh, look closely.The front axle is just forward of the natural balance point of the trailer. The motor will sit directly above this axle. Tail-heavy you say? Not so. Each axle is fitted with its own ride height valve that either puts air in or takes air out relative to axle position. Using the front axle as a fulcrum air is added to the two rearard sets of air bags to push the back up, allowing me to create whatever tongue weight I want.In fact, if you look closely at the pictures you'll see that the trailer is held level by the suspension only, no tongue jack is used. I roll the trailer around the shop with one hand even though it weights about 7,000 lbs. If I sit my big butt on the tongue the nose will drop about a foot, but within 30 seconds it returns to level. When I hop off the tongur jumps up about a foot but immediately returns to level. Pretty slick, huh? The Dexter Axle engineer couldn't believe I came up with this myself.Also take into consideration that the garage is 21 feet long. The Mark II is 18' 2 1/2" long and the Porsche is only 13' long. That space allows me the flexibility to change the load positioning without adjusting the ride height valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 12, 2006 Author Share Posted April 12, 2006 4-12-2006 FOAM DAY!!!!!!!In preparation for foam I realized that I had not installed the new rain gutters above the doors. I also installed the upper door pivots and installed the door so that it could be foamed in its proper position.Installed all the wiring and the rear facing camera before the wires were foamed in place.The crew from the insulation company masked off the windows and completely covered the floor and ramps.I'm very glad I had this done rather than doing it myself.Lots of scaping of overspray to do but the spray worked wonders in providing the structural rigidity I was looking for. I'm going to start paneling the garage area first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 15, 2006 Author Share Posted April 15, 2006 4-15-2006A couple hours of scraping off the overspray and I was ready to install the Fiberglass Reinforced Panels.Finally, finished surfaces! The FRP is very dimetionally stable but it requires a 1/16th gap in-between panels to allow for expansion.I wanted a very smooth appearance so I opted to glue the FRP to the wood studs and rafters with a glue specific to fiberglass. The dividing strips were first fastened to the ceiling with glue and staples.I opted for 12-foot lengths which allowed for just one end seam. The sheets are very difficult to handle, making this a two-person job.The adhesive is slow cure so it had to be held in place, under pressure, for 1 to 7 days, depending on temperature and humidity conditions. We've determined that 4 days is sufficient under the manufacturer's guidelines.The cut-offs of the side ceiling panels will become the upper wall panels. That's my carpenter-friend Bill. A true artist.The ceiling is completed. The wall will get covered after I remove the ceiling supports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 Barry, another alternate to cover the inside is to use translucent fiberglass roofing, used for roofs in truck bodies and inside of reefer trucks. It comes 8' 6" wide and in lengths as long as you want. (But it takes 14 men and two boys to install it in one piece to a celing!) The price is right though, about $1.20 per sq ft. I have just used it to cover the roof on my 31 Essex. It has a small ?pebble? finish and looks like a fabric covering, and is flexible enough to show the roof bows like the original fabric roofing. I bonded it on and applied a decorative welting on the edge. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 16, 2006 Author Share Posted April 16, 2006 FRP is about $1.00 a square foot. Thanks for the alternative though.I had a visitor yesterday. West Peterson was in town to visit family and came by to check out the project. He brought his FIL and his two boys. I think West's FIL got a big kick out of the project.West forgot to bring my hat back, again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 16, 2006 Author Share Posted April 16, 2006 4-16-2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 16, 2006 Author Share Posted April 16, 2006 I found the perfect tow vehicle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Kinker Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 How about this for a "tow" vehicle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">West forgot to bring my hat back, again. </div></div>I'm still apprehensive that you'll try to beat it out of me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 Did I give you my Maybach test drive hat? I can't seem to find it.Geez West, that picture of me next to the trailer makes it look like a toy. I have no concept of how big I am until I see pictures like that.Someone told me I look almost normal size next to the Mark II. My wife said, "No, you don't." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 Barry,I'm glad I decided not to kick your butt.....Your wife 5'-2" tall? right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 She's 5'7". She said she fell in love with me because I called her "Shorty".She was 17 in this picture. That's my '68 Firebird behind her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 4-17-2006More progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted April 22, 2006 Author Share Posted April 22, 2006 4-21-2006Paneling completed.After installing the paneling into the rear curved molding a little heat was applied and the molding nicley conformed without any waves.This material cuts very cleanly and easily. I'm planning on framing the windows in polished diamond plate aluminum.Looking back through one of the front access hatchesThe base luan paneling will start to go in the lounge tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted September 24, 2006 Author Share Posted September 24, 2006 9-24-2006 ReassemblyAfter straightening out the wall bent outward by impacting the ramps, everything fell back into place. The door gaps are now correct and everything operates smoothly.The side panel still has a couple of deep scratches but they are barely visable in the polished surface. The side marker light was pressed into the surface of the sheet metal. With the trim removed it was an easy matter to flatten the metal after removing its temper with localized heat. I've ordered a new light for each side.Test fit the bumped and sanded lower trim piece and it fit perfectly. I'll polish it after it's been riveted. The rivet heads have a coating that needs to be polished off.I should be able to start fitting sheet metal on the other side soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novaman Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Looks like things are turning out to be a little easier to repair than orginaly anticapated. It's just ashame that it needed to have repairs. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I don't think that it is easy.... I think that Barry just makes it look easy. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novaman Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Oh, I know that it isn't real easy work, I work on a race car shop and know what's invovled. I think he's found that somethings that looked like they were going to need major work are turning out to be smaller jobs. Things like that ramps which he was able to pull back into postion without having to rebuild them, the 2nd side was able to be hammered out, buffed and didn't need the skin replaced. And yes, he does make it look easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 It's a lot easier than I imagined. The structure is so strong that it literally sprung back into place once all the bent metal was removed. Thanks for your kind remarks guys.9-25-2006Went to visit the Porsche today. I'd say it's coming along nicely. The front suspension has been repaired and they are still searching for a new aluminum drum. I've decided to have the entire car stripped and repainted. I'm being told that the paints they are allowed to use today are incompatable with blending into a lacquered finish.If the rest of the car is as rust free as this side it'll be worth it to have a flawless paint job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillP Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Barry I might have the drum you need, which way do the cooling fins go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 There are no cooling fins. I believe the fins were only on the Carrera's brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillP Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 I'll see what I have and let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 I believe they have found a drum. It needs to be checked out as the aluminum drum with iron insert are prone to get out of round. I'll keep you in mind as a source though. What kind of Porsche do you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 9-26-2006A 48" x 144" sheet of Alclad showed up today. It was rolled into an 18" diameter cylinder. I took it to my local fab shop where they dropped everything and chopped it into the three pieces I need to repair the walls and reskin the rear door.I ordered the aluminum with a protective film to protect it in handling and installation. I used the damaged panel as a template, I had the fab shop run it through a roller to flatten it.I secured the new studs to the baseplate with some angle iron brackets. The entire rear area is now prepped to accept the new sheet metal. I've drilled out all the rivets so that I can slip the new metal underneath the cut edge creating a new overlapping seam. Two new rivets will be installed in-between each existing rivet location duplicating the pattern in the seam above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillP Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I believe they have found a drum. It needs to be checked out as the aluminum drum with iron insert are prone to get out of round. I'll keep you in mind as a source though. What kind of Porsche do you have? </div></div>Restored a '65 SC sunroof coupe from a shell and two dozen boxes of parts a couple years ago. Other one is a '79 911 Targa. Have a Speedster in my sights but haven't made the deal yet. Drums are semi-easy to find because some people changed over to C or SC discs from drums. The early ones are more difficult but out there. When I did my SC, I had to scrounge parts from Maine to Albuquerque to Florida. If I don't have it, I can probably find it. The only thing I need but haven't been able to find is the escutcheon that goes on the sunroof switch. They are very rare. I think possibly the fin-back Mercedes used the same switch (I think it's a Bosch) but can't confirm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted September 28, 2006 Author Share Posted September 28, 2006 9-27-2006 Sheet metal installationI cut out the shape leaving the protective layer in place.I used duct tape to hang the sheet in position. It is tucked up under the sheet above and sandwiched in-between a horizontal aluminum support. The rivets that attached the metal to the strut were installed on 3" centers while the seam above was set to 1 1/2" centers so I drilled new holes to match.The new skin will take on the identical appearance as soon as all the vertical rivets are installed.Once I do a final buff of this area the repair will be indistinguishable from the original surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Morbius Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 Absolutely beautiful workmanship, guys!!! ...............Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted September 28, 2006 Author Share Posted September 28, 2006 1 guy, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 9-28-2006 RivetingI enlisted the aid of my office manager Christine in acting as Rosie the Riveter. She followed my instructions well and the work went rather quickly.The new J channel will be installed after I repair the other section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 1, 2006 Author Share Posted October 1, 2006 9-30-2006 Installed last panel and J channelI used the remnants of the last panel as a pattern for the new panelThe last panel need to be altered so that it would fit above the wheel wellI polished the new J moulding befor drilling and cutting to fit.Near completion of the exterior repairs. Two new light fixtures and some rear door trim are on order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 10-4-2006 THE DOOR The door was badly kinked when the base of the door was trapped in-between the crashing Porsche and the guardrail. The door skin is the same 2024 T-3 Alclad as the rest of the siding. The inner door shell is pure untempered aluminum. It is very soft and was tough to flatten out. I spend hours and hours straightening the metal. The more I did the worse it looked. I tried polishing and it looked even worse. I decided to install a patch panel over the distressed metal. I mimicked the radius of the door and riveted it in place. The patch is Alclad and is covered with a layer of pure aluminum. It will polish out the same as the door stamping. I replaced the door skin because the guard rail had burned through the layer of pure aluminum and stretched the metal. Taking the door apart allowed me to straighten the inner door instead of trying to find a 55 year old replacement. The replacement door skin was simple to duplicate, as were the side panels. I used the old door skin as a template. There are some inner stiffeners that needed to be riveted to the door skin before installation on the door back. The lock bezel opening needed to be closely cut for strength and appearance. Lots of 1/8" holes and smoothing with a carbide burr. Test fit the door skin and drilled all rivet holes. Then I deburred holes for a tight fit of panels. Installed new insulation. Completed riveting door perimeter and cut out window opening. This was done last so that the panel went on without buckling along side the window opening. Finished product. Installed. Perfect fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillP Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Nice work Barry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Barry,I am very impressed by the amount and quality of work you are doing.I am glad you are keeping us up to date on what you are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 Thanks Bills,I think insanity should be shared.Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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