The PHOENIX rising

[Barry Wolk]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Barry, How about starting a "Toybox" Trailer Project (3) thread? We have fast Internet service and a fast computer but with all the photos this thread is taking awhile to load now. Some of the folks here have dial-up service and it makes it very slow for them.

This is a fascinating project to watch come together. Hopefully in the future I will get to see it in person. </div></div>

Done. If you're in the area I'd love to show it off. That's an open invitation.

I'm looking for appropriate tail lights.

[Shop Rat]

Great. Next trip we take I'll check where you are located and see if we will be nearby.

How about "I'll" on one window and "Sue" on the other? That should get their attention.

[Jim Bollman]

The "Stop" windows keep a clean back, wonder if they would be legal.

Was thinking instead of blacking out the windows, you should insert pictures that look like you are looking into a stock old style camper interior.

[Barry Wolk]

That's very funny. I'll see if my Photoshop guru can do that to see what it looks like.

[Shop Rat]

Or have a couple mean little kids looking out the back and sticking their tongues out at the drivers behind him. (My late sister-in-law used to do that when she rode in her dad's car. She said she didn't have that red hair for nothing.)

[Barry Wolk]

3-12-2006

The garage area will be lined with Fiberglass Reinforced Panels. The panels are commonly found in commercial kitchens and freezers. It is brilliant white and has a pebbly finish but non abrasive. The standard moldings are white plastic but I'm leaning towards stainless or aluminum.

The existing wall studs were covered in tar sprayed on the rough interior as a means to deaden both the noise and movement of the aluminum skin. No adhesive would stick to the tar nor would the width of the existing studs be sufficient to glue on the FRP.

I screwed the lumber to the skinny studs to create a much stiffer shell and to create more surface area to apply adhesive. Since the wall stud layout does not match a standard 48" spacing layout I've had to add interim studs to allow for proper attachment of the dividing strips.

The wall and ceiling cavities will be filled with foam for structural rigidity and temperature control.

[Mark Shaw]

Barry,

"BACK OFF!" might be the best lighted message you could put in the back windows. Just turn it on when somebody follows too close. Or, just paint some eyes with big eye lashes looking down to one side and paint a message saying "please watch the road".

Mark Shaw

[Guest]

Barry you do nice work,

I'm trying to figure out if your a retireed UAW with farbication skills.

Below are a few conversions which show good fabrication and finsihing skills, but the design failed in excution.

Old Cadillac commerical chassis were always used for a RV add on, but I don't know how good it was going down the highway.

What are your thoughs on the three examples below?

[Bob Kinker]

That Buick wagon tow car is one classy ride! The Airstream ain't to shabby either!

[Barry Wolk]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm trying to figure out if your a retireed UAW with farbication skills.

What are your thoughs on the three examples below?

</div></div>

Not UAW, no union affiliation whatsoever. I'm an electrician by trade. I own a lighting maintenance company (bucket trucks, man lifts...) and I've always service my own equipment. As a youngster I worked in all the trades and cars were a hobby.

I love the '38 Buick. The Caddy is incongruous with the style of the camper and the AS and Buick are a great combo.

[West Peterson]

I saw that 1938 Buick at the Buick National and it is one sweet setup.

[Guest]

really, you like the '38 buick? I think it's ugly.

I think the guy did a nice construction job, but it's still ugly.

I wish I had some other photo that are not in shadow, and I never looked inside, but the front cowling and cab over is ugly.

I don't know what the back looks like.

I really think your car trailer will be converted back to a full camper someday, by the next owner. You did all the heavy lifting, and I think the Vintage trailer people will come looking for you.

I think the '57 buick guy had a wire wheel failer pulling the A/S from Washington state for the Buick 100th year.

[Barry Wolk]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">really, you like the '38 buick? I think it's ugly.

I think the guy did a nice construction job, but it's still ugly.

I wish I had some other photo that are not in shadow, and I never looked inside, but the front cowling and cab over is ugly.

I don't know what the back looks like.

I really think your car trailer will be converted back to a full camper someday, by the next owner. You did all the heavy lifting, and I think the Vintage trailer people will come looking for you.

I think the '57 buick guy had a wire wheel failer pulling the A/S from Washington state for the Buick 100th year. </div></div>

Tommy, why don't you tell me what you really think.

I'm not worried about it's next owner. I tend to keep things forever. I've already turned down several major offers to buy it or build a copy.

Not interested.

[DizzyDale]

Dear Tommy,You think the 38 Buick is ugly.I AGREE,Guy undertook a big job,don't understand how he figured he could take the front of an art-deco classic and graft it to a SHOEBOX and get anything other than FRANKENSTEIN.In looking at both the Buick and the Caddy,IMHO,the PROBLEM with the Buick is the transition from the windshield to the trailer body.The Caddy guy eliminated this problem by starting behind the doors.OBVIOUSLY we don't know all the ISSUES in either case.diz

[West Peterson]

I was under the impression that the 1938 Buick was a restoration, not a recent fabrication. Am I wrong??

No... it's not the most beautiful "marriage," but it was nice work and the inside was absolutely gorgeous!

[Shop Rat]

Diz, Wouldn't that be a "Frankencamper"?

[Barry Wolk]

3-18-2006

Created a curved finish molding for the door opening that will finish the edge of the FRP that will line the interior.

The door seal will sit on top of this molding. The material slot is a little wavy but once filled with the 1/8" panel it will straighten out.

Ready for insulation.

[DizzyDale]

Dear Barry,Is that finish molding you made aluminum?It will always be a little wavy,you bent it,where do you think the extra material is going to go?Anymore thought on a tow vehicle?YOU know you just can't tow this masterpiece with any old work truck.diz

[Barry Wolk]

No Diz, the molding is plastic. It will receive the Fiberglass Reinforced Panel that will line the walls of the trailer.

Still looking for the right tow vehicle. This one looks promising.

International MXT

[DizzyDale]

Dear Barry,It can be your new COMPANY truck and its got enough chrome,stainless and aluminum to go with the trailer.diz

[Barry Wolk]

If this molding was exposed on the outside I'd agree with you. It will be covered on top by the door gasket. I think it would look funny with aluminum trim at the back and plastic trim everywhere else.

I did contact a trim specialist. An aluminum outside corner would be near impossible to bend like this. He said he could bend a "J channel" and weld a cover over it.

[DizzyDale]

Dear Barry,Any chance you have given any thought to a rear bumper?Is it even possible with the clamshell door set-up?You have back-up systems in place for almost everthing,what about some protection for the most thought out part of the whole project?diz

[Barry Wolk]

I have air cylinders on order that will extend a bumper 22.5" or 6" past the rear of the trailer. I've heard it is difficult to get two air cylinders to work in tandem so I may just use them as extention guides rather than power them with air. The cylinders will be attached to the frame rails, which puts them 48" apart. If I can get the bumper rigid enough they should work in tandem.

[Amphicar BUYER]

Use a single cylinder in the center to power it in/out and 2 tracked slides on either end to giude it. Another idea, may to fab some sort of scissor type mechanisim to move it. Don't forget about some sort of automatic positive lock to resist movement in case of a bump by somebody from behind.

[Barry Wolk]

I have 150 lbs of air pressure available. I was hoping to leave the cylinders pressurized to act as a shock absorber. It might fend off minor damage.

I have heard horror stories about getting two air cylinders to work together.

[Amphicar BUYER]

Barry - If you use a scissor type mechanisim, you could use a 12VDC linear actuator to extend/retract the assembly. Iinstall it between 2 of the bumper shocks (for lack of proper terms) from a 5 MPH bumper system off some sort of vehicle to mount the whole mechanisim on. That would give some impact resistance and allow it to be retracted in unison with opening the hatch.

Air cylinders will provide little effective impact resistance. The seals are only rated for it's use and the impact (even slight) would increase the pressure inside by many times ratings. Yes, getting them to play in unison is not an easy feat. By using a single cylinder or actuator and a scissor mechanisim (wired via a relay to door opeining electrics), you can utilize a single, center point to actuate it from a single switch.

[Barry Wolk]

Since a linear actuator is a screw drive it would not be very forgiving on even the slightes impact. The drive would most certainly be ruined. Maybe some really long shock absorbers as guides and an air cylinder in the center?

[Amphicar BUYER]

I would guess any type of actuator (air or electric) would be OK as long as the whole unit it mounted to to the shocks so it all moves as a whole in case of impact. Thus transferring the impact to the shocks and not into the actuator or air cylinder. Another idea may to have the 5 MPH bumper shocks and bumper rotate under or down while opening the clamshell. Mybe the bumper unit could be pushed down and out of the way by the spare tire mechanisim?

We want to keep the impact away from your beautifully engineered clamshell door, yet allow the door to open without the rear bumper unit getting in the way. I would think it would not take much of a hit to make the clamshell inoperable or at least, difficult to open and close due to twist after impact.

John Bevins

[Jay Wolf]

your perfect tow vehicle just sold on Ebay

Pefect tow

After restoration of course.

I think it is the grandfather of the one you picked

[Barry Wolk]

Holy Cannoli, look at the size of that thing! I have this feeling that the Mrs. wouldn't like the ride.

[Guest]

Barry, I'm liking this progress your making!

[Barry Wolk]

Nice Photoshop Tommy. You left out the feet!

[R W Burgess]

Feet!? There's FEET in that picture??? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Wayne

[Barry Wolk]

And my wife can't figure out why I smile all the time.

[Barry Wolk]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Dear Barry,Is that finish molding you made aluminum?It will always be a little wavy,you bent it,where do you think the extra material is going to go?Anymore thought on a tow vehicle?YOU know you just can't tow this masterpiece with any old work truck.diz </div></div>

Diz,

I got all the wavyness in the curved molding to go away with a little heat. At first the heat made the bulges much worse but then they started to settle down. At that point I smoothed them with a damp towel and they set perfectly smooth.

I think what happened is that the material just got a tiny bit thicker as the high spots pushed the warm material into the low parts of the ripple making everything the same thickness, taking away the wave.

I'm having the wall and ceiling cavaties foamed next week so paneling in both the front and rear are next. There is a light at the end of the tunnel.

[Barry Wolk]

3-24-2006

I polished all of the skirting before installation.

All of the aluminum exposed edging is covered in chrome door edge molding eliminating the creaking typical of moving panels

The (4) 6,000 lifts easily raise the entire trailer 3 feet off the ground.

The very last of the sheetmetal work is done except for patching the various roof vents and plumbing stacks no longer needed.The roof will be covered with a rubber membrane like those used on school busses.

[Barry Wolk]

4-2-2006

The roof rafters on either side of the front roof vent had repeatedly been soaked and had sagged about 1" in the center. This created a flat roof in this area where the rest of the roof is rounded for rain removal. You can see how far they were off in this picture.

Newly installed roof rafter.

There were seven holes in the roof that needed to be sealed.

Patches slightly larger than the opening were cut to fit. Cleco fasteners to temporarily hold the panel for drilling.

Blind rivets were used as these patches will be covered with a rubber membrane.

Finished product.

I had enough parts to restore the two roof vents in the garage area but I had to get rid of the tar first.

Here's an examole of why more is not necessarily better. There must be 100 rivets holding the vent to the roof. Many of the rivets leaked.

Smooth as a baby's behind and ready for rubber membrane installation.

[Barry Wolk]

Found another dozen rafters that were sagging from 1/4" to 3/4". It was easier to make new ones than trim the old ones. This also restored the proper curvature to the roof.

Now it's ready for foam.

[Shop Rat]

Barry,

Will the Toy Box have an exhaust fan in the ceiling? We added a second one to the trailer we have. It sure does help in really hot weather.

[Barry Wolk]

Hi Susan,

I've maintained two of the roof vents in the garage area. The front cabin will be air conditioned. I'm planning on adapting a window air conditioner that vents intake air through the bottom of the trailer and exhausts it through the top. The force of the condenser fan coupled with the natural "chimney" effect of rising hot air should sufficiently exchange enough air to cool the unit. The AC pan will drain thoroughly every time we load and unload the trailer as it tips up 5°.

I am hoping to find a really quiet 5-6,000 btu unit with capacitor start. This would allow me to use it off-grid, running off the batteries, through the inverter, for several hours.