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Headlights are not working - HELP!


mtworkshop
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Since the most recent rainstorms my headlights have quit working. I think that it may be the switch but am not sure. Symptoms: Headlights would not come on several weeks ago. Shutdown - restarted and headlights worked. Dash lights would not come on Saturday night. Played with the switch for a while and clicked through the interior lights on position. Dash lights came on. Last night - No headlights No dash lights. Today got dash lights working again by playing with switch. Headlights still out. I've got the instrument cluster out and find white powder in the area of the switch. I'm trying the spray trick. Suggestions?

Thanks. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Mike Turner

I'm no longer wondering what the problem is. Apparently I narrowly avoided having another sauted TC. The connector block is melted! Anybody got a spare connector block, wire harness, light switch??

Thanx again.

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I believe it's a just a mopar switch. It's not a common problem but quite a few Turbododge owners have had the problem. Time to hit the stylish Junkyards for a Chrysler of similar year. While you're there pick up some of the gas levers for other members. Hint you can break parts on junk cars to save time. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Also pick up some of the switches for the console seat controls. They are on the door side of the front seat. The contacts inside are what get bent out of shape in the TC.

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New headlight switch pigtail for Chrysler from Performance Specialties. New headlight switch from NAPA returned because the switch stem would not stay engaged with the switch. New headlight switch from Car Quest installed and working. I'm back on the road! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Also had time to use a bit of "Leatherique" on that hard to reach area where the defroster vents and speakers live. Also used a bit of contact ceament to bring things back to origional position. It ain't hard to take the dash apart but the plastic is ever so delicate.

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  • 1 month later...

This is sounding familiar... I have had trouble with power to my radio, dome lights, tonneau cvr, etc. I am sure you are all aware of this. I can just hear everyone moan "not again"!

I am thinking that this might be part of my problem too. I was driving last night and stepped on the brakes and everything flickered. Later I hit the brights, and the entire car lurched, lights flickered, etc.

I am going to pull the negative terminal off the batt & clean it. How do I tell if I have a bad clamp? Where are the other grounds under the hood that I should look for?

What is a new "pigtail"? Is it the entire connector block that plugs into the light switch? If so where can I get one? Mine didn't look bad when I replaced the switch, but I know that they can go bad.

Thanks for the help!

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Slyrose, I think Hemi was saying if the pigtail melts, the switch is bad. I'm beginning to think this is a symptom of the convertalbes that have been exposed to rain with the top down. You should be safe. As far as the battery clamps, if you have corrosion on the wires where they go into the clamp, it is bad. If all the insulation is still there, you will see the insulation swelled at the clamp. Mine had replacements on already. The solution for me was new clamps and "soldering" the wire with a propane torch to get it hot enough for the solder to melt. Having the wire end soldered gives a longer lasting connection.

Email Hemi directly as to whether anything other than battery connection will shut down everything.

My 4 Turbo Chryslers are the final cars I will buy. I'm 62 now and have had one for 19 years and 180,000 miles. I figure another 20 years should do it for my driving.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I pulled the negative clamp and cleaned it. I also pulled the body ground by the battery and it was rust galore! The serrated washer that cuts into paint to complete the ground was so rusty that i had to grind it down. Pulled the ground off the brake unit and cleaned it up. Pulled the headlight ground on the pass inner fender and the serrated washer was all rust. Ground it and and the others there and reassembled. So far no problems. I think I'll have to get the dash grounds too, but I don't know where they are. Some good news for the weekend!

If you are still having problems with the headlights, try cleaning up the ground on the right inner fender. Good luck!

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It took me two days to recover from your post!!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> RUST on a TC!!!!! Might want to apply some dielectric grease to the contacts to prevent future corrosion. If you have that much rust, you will also want some Permatex rust treatment for the turnsignals and any other rust spots. It's good stuff but potent. It has the familiar smell of acid. Sand the parts lightly and spray a couple coats with drying time between and then spray with color. I do this on all my cars. My TC will be getting this treatment this winter. I also drill pinholes for treating the inside of the rocker panels. Just remove the door sill to drill the holes. The first place the rockers rust out is the jacking points. EEK!!!!! Apparently the welds for the jacking points were not treated. I also do the inside of the half frame under the car. The trick is to get some of the plastic vac tubing as on the engine and drill the spray nozzle to accept this. Now you have a tube 12" long to get to the hard to reach spots. Also check the welded floor seams for rust and treat.

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