Engine cranks but won't fire

[leroycook]

My engine will not start! It is getting fuel but no spark. I removed one of the coils and there is current on on of the terminals. Any help would me great! Where do I look? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Reattach_1]

I would try changing out the coil pack first. I had one that I would tap and then the engine would start. I replaced it. it's still working.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Could possibly be from a bad crankshaft position sensor. I'm pretty sure that will stop all spark

[padgett]

OK first see if there are any codes set. Ignition will usually not set any but you never know.

You said "it has gas". Do you mean it has pressure in the fuel rails ?

Does not mean any is getting to the engine. To check this, pour 1/2 oz of gasoline directly into the manifold (use one of the vacuum lines on top behind the throttle plate). Hold foot on gas to open a bit and crank. If nothing, it is ignition related.

Do you have a Noid light (fuel injector tester)? Injector will not fire without crank sensor and good ignition module.

Check and we can go from there.

ps - do you have a service manual ? If not get access and download from Reatta.Net (if an 88, download the 89 manual. is the same for this).

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Padgett's better at this stuff than I am

[leroycook]

There is no spark from the coils.There is voltate on one side of the coils teminal. I will have the car towed to a local shop this week. Just changing componets blindly can get costly and I may never find out why it won't start. It takes the right electronic equipment to check out these newer cars.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I still need a compile and FAQ

[padgett]

I mentioned the service manual because there is an entire diagnostics section on "Cranks but Does Not Run" which is a step-by-step approach to diagnosis including things like

- remove this connector

- jupmer these two connections

- listen for injectors firing (or look for NOID light)

Is about six pages in section 6E3 and starts on page 16 of the 88 FSM.

Every Reatta should have a FSM because without it most shops may just throw parts at it.

You are right, they do need special equipment

- DVM ($3.99 from Harbor Freight)

- jumper wire, 22 ga from Rat Shack works fine

- test lights (real NOID from HF is best, think Pep Boys also has them)

at least is all I usually need.

[Guest Mike_s]

My engine had started to intermittently burp/hestitate while just crusing along, which progessed to intermittent stalling or going into the limp home mode, intialy I could just shut it down and restart it and off I'd go, it progessivly got more frequent and sometimes would not restart untill the car had cooled down to ambient temps.

I'd sometimes get a EO53 error, sometimes it was current, sometimes not.

I had replaced the ignition model and coil pack a little over a year prior this happening, so I thought it was probably the crank sensor and replaced it, nope, it was the ignition module that I had got from Autozone.