Valves and Lifters

[Guest cc12007]

Hello everyone. I posted a couple of months ago asking about what type of ATF to use in a Ultramatic. Thanks for the many resonses. I ended up useing type F thinking the it has original cork, and based on some input from old time transmission folks. I got the the engine started and drove around a bit. The engine, a 327, is only hitting on 6 cylinders. I had checked the compression before I started it and all but 6 and 2 are about 125-130. I had hoped that driving would loosen thing up but no luck. I just pulled the head and manifolds off and got all the valves out. The tops of the intake valves on 2 and 6 were both bent and not closing. Some are also pretty loose in the valve guides. Also the part of the hydraulic lifter that the plunger fits into is stuck in the tappet on the 2 bent valves. With all that I have a few questions perhaps someone could answer. Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the lifter from the tappet? I tried a fairly stong magnet with no luck. Does anyone have any experience replacing valve guides in these engines? and last but not least, what color should the intake manifold be painted? Thanks for your help and hope this post is not too long.

[Guest Albert]

the guides on the stright 8 have to be driven down, cut off at the bottom and driven out more, i have used a valve guide knurling tool, and reamer in one of my engines, and it still ok. the lifter if it is a solid has to be removed from the bottom of the engine, if you have the hydraulic lifters you can remove part of it from the top. the intake manifold is left natural, or paint it with cast iron paint colour.

[Guest cc12007]

I forgot to mention, this is a 1950 super 8.

[Clipper47]

If it's a '50 Custom it should have a 356" engine with hydraulic lifters. the guides are replaced as Albert mentioned. The plunger portion of the lifters should simply lift out once the valves are removed. The plunger holder can only be removed by removing the pan and camshaft.