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90 Reatta pressure switch,pump and motor needed


flh77rat

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Guest F14CRAZY

If you don't do Prior, you can go through GMpartsdirect and get them at around half the dealer price.

If you want used, Jim Finn is a good choice. jfinn at cpinternet.com

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Now wondering if the pump/motor and pressure switch are even bad. System does drop in fluid as it should and it does seem the motor is running. No info lights on dash coming on but pedal goes right to the floor. Did notice buzzing on accumulator or motor before brakes went out. Pump motor does stop after 30 seconds when car is started but no brakes. Could something good happen like just bad relays. Did switch relays with no luck.

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Don't understand much about abs let alone this system. Hopefully i am looking in the right direction. All help appreciated this is my first Reatta and kind of like it. Must add there is somewhat of brakes but definitely not drivable!!! I won't give up

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Have you done any diagnostics? It seems unlikely (though possible)that the pressure switch and the motor would both be out.

I speak from experience here, throwing parts at this system get pricey really fast. If you just want to throw money at it replace the whole unit with a new (rebuilt) one from www.priorreman.com.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tried the diagnostics of jumping the pins but no luck. </div></div>

If you are referring to trying to get readouts of trouble codes, that will not necessarily get you anywhere if the problem is a bad pump and/or a bad pressure switch.

A few things you can try...

Assuming you have low brake pressure:

Swap around the three firewall-mounted relays. They are all the same part, see if switching them around fixes it.

Pull the pump lead off and check with a voltmeter if you are getting 12 Volts (while system is below pressure) While the connector is off you can create low pressure by applying the brakes a few times.

Then you can check the pump directly by running a couple of wires to it from the battery. does the pump run when voltage is applied to it?

I recently had a loss of the power brakes, I ended up putting in a new pressure switch, and then found out it was the pump.

BTW, when you order a new pump it comes with a new pressure switch pre-installed, so if you are certain that it isn't the firewall relays but are not certain which of the two you have the problem with, I suppose it would work to change out the pump assembly.

In my case the pump was "tired" it would pressurize the system to some extent, but intermittantly it would quit early or not start up at all. I found that tapping it with a pair of pliers would get it to pump for a bit, but towards the end I could only coax it to run for a few seconds at a time, less and less and the pressure built and not able to reach full pressure without alomst constant tapping at the end of the pressurization cycle.

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Thanks for the info. I did switch around the relays on the firewall and did,nt see any difference. It only has two on the firewall. I think another is in the cab or a fuse since it is a 90. I'll check for power to the pump like you said and go from there. Thanks for your input because now that i looked closely to the pump I can see where it definitly looks like it has been tapped on by a wrench. SO of course i did and seen the exact same thing as you did. COOL thanks boss! Pretty much answers my question. Once again thanks for all the help and info from everyone. Great site

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