Guest Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 I have a 89 Reatta that just refuse to quit stalling while I driving and have to slow down to a stop. The car will cut out & I've to restart the car. Now, it's happening repeatly so I can't drive it.I'd replaced the battery,iguition module and coil pack. Didn't work - reinstalled the original module & pack. PLEASE HELP A/C after chg to R134 the air does not hold and mechanic cannot locate leaks ANY SUGGESTIONS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 The best way I have found to find a leak in the ac is to use an ultraviolet dye. You put it into your sytem and run it for a day or so then go all over your system with a blacklight. Any leak will glow brightly under the light. I have done better with one of these than a sniffer.The dye can be bought at auto supply shops. I got Mine from advance auto parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 Forgot to ask if You have checked for codes in Your car? It will make it a lot easier to diagnose if You know what the computers are seeing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 Thanks Skip for your reply. I really glad to hear from you. You guys knows these cars like the back of your hands. I really appreciated your time and answers. Keep them coming.<BR>The mechanic placed dye in the car with freon each time. After a week or at times the next day, he couldn't see any leaks. He had filled it with freon at least 5 different times. The last time it held for over a month - but now - no cold air. It is so disappointing. No, I have not check the codes on the car. How can that help me? I don't know much about the mechanics of the car. But I do try to take good care of it.<BR>Can anyone recommend a good A/C person in the Bay Area of San Francisco? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 3, 2001 Share Posted July 3, 2001 Codes on Your engine can tell You if it sees something that is causing Your stalling. Sometimes and EGR problem or fuel or mixture problem. These cars have a pretty good diagnostic system built into them and They will give You a lot of info. <BR> I wonder if Your mechanic is shining His light in on the evaporator core? If You can not see any leak in the system outside of the car then My bet will be the evaporator. It is not the easiest thing to see but if He has put that much dye in then something should be glowing someplace. Mine was leaking at the condensor and it looked like a light show under blacklight. <BR> Do You know for sure Your system is low? Are You getting a low freon warning from Your car? It will say that freaon is low and it is cutting out the compressor to sane it from damage. You might want to find a shop that is a little bit better at finding leaks. If it is going low then there is no reason why they cant find it. Maybe someone else can recommend a good shop Your way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted July 4, 2001 Share Posted July 4, 2001 Unfortunatly the Reatta suffers (sometimes) from leaks in the evaporator, difficult to see, however if you remove the blower controls in the engine compartment on the evap case, you can look inside with the eye, or black light, for leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted July 4, 2001 Share Posted July 4, 2001 a) in my experience, stalling at a light is either a sticking TCC (torque converter lock up) - mostlikely happens afer driving above 45 mph & car will jerk as it stops - or a sticking IAC (idle air control) if it just dies smoothly & can keep running with accellerator (do not test in traffic !¿!¿). Stuck EGR will generally run unevenly at low speeds.<P>My bet is on the IAC (or something completely unnatural).<P> according to my book, the diagnostic for low A/C charge does not occur until only 1/3 the charge is left. It will stop being cold long before that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 5, 2001 Share Posted July 5, 2001 I really appreciate your comments.<BR>My car die on me when I been driving through our town 25 to 35 miles for about a mile or two from when I start it. Then as I slow down to stop it will just die. Change the igintion module and coil pack and it happen again. Now I have the original igintion module and coil pack replaced. Also my battery die on me too and was replaced.<BR>What do you think my next step should be?<BR>Thank you for your suggestions. I will be bringing all this to my mechanic or try to find one that knows the car. HELP! ANYONE KNOW A GOOD MECHANIC IN THE SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA THAT KNOW THE CAR without going to a dealer and pay the $$$$$. I am a retiree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted July 5, 2001 Share Posted July 5, 2001 Next step: clean the IAC. (Have been posts before on how). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jadesdrift90 Posted July 5, 2001 Share Posted July 5, 2001 Hi Anna,<P>Took me over a month to get mine going again...and we know everyone's is different even though it might sound the same! <P>I replaced the Catalytic Converter, Ignition Sensor, Ignition Coil...NO CODES MIND YOU (after the Cat Con was replaced) and ended up with the Crank Sensor...I think all is well...LOL...at least I got to drive over 10 miles without the car dying.<P>I am now building up courage to go on a REAL trip!<P>I use to live in SF...I could ask my friends in South San Francisco (they have a lot of toys) about mechanics or is that too far? <P>Jade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 5, 2001 Share Posted July 5, 2001 Folks[ if the car runs good when cold and when not stopped. The MPG and power seem normal and smooth about the only thing that affects the idle #and only the idle# (can`t find the astrict) is the IAC. <P>If gummy, the car will run fine everywhere else (and when cold is not closed loop) but will not idle.<P>Since the advance is digitally controlled, it cannot be weak springs. Too much EGR and it will be rough at 20'25 mph. Clogged catalyst and it will not be able to get out of its own way.<P>Add to the fact that I have cleaned #many# IACs for a bad idle with good results and the fact that it is almost free (not as easy as an o2 sensor but not bad on a cold engine if you do not drop the (2) screws) and I would start there. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 11, 2001 Share Posted July 11, 2001 Took my car in to a shop and they found nothing wrong. Told me to pick it up and try it again. As soon as my husband picked it up and drove less than a mile going on the on-ramp to the Bay Bridge it the lights started to come on. He then stepped on the gas to keep it from dying. <BR>Guess I'll have to call them back or anyone know of someone in The SF Bay Area that knows about a Reatta??? NO LUCK, YET! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 A Thank you note for your guys. I followed Padgett's advise and had the IAC cleaned. My car has NOT STALLED for about 4 days now. I hope it will stay that way and found the problem. This is let you all know I really appreciate your advise. I sure others do, too! Now, to take care of my A/C problem and I'll be in business. Know of a good A/C person in the SF bay area???<BR>Anna Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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