No spark-1 more post.....

[bhclark]

Okay, so I'm needy. I admit it!

Attached is a picture of the setup that was on the car when I bought it. I installed a new battery today and attempted to start the engine. It chugged, like a car with a dying battery. The system is still 6 volt. The starter and Generator have supposedly been rebuilt not too long ago. I'm not sure of the status of the coil or the dist/cap/etc. There is no key, so the positive line of the battery cable is connected directly to the coil with what looks like a 14 or 16 gauge wire. The other side of the coil has a deteriorating wire running down to the starter.

Question, are these lightweight wires what is causing me not to get a fast grind of the starter and if so, what gauge should I use?

any other ideas would be appreciated as well.

[RocketDude]

I couldn't download your pic, so I'm flying blind as to what your working on. If you are saying the only cable from the battery is a 14 or 16 gauge wire, you have a problem. I assume you mean it has the regular heavy cable running from the battery to the starter, with the smaller wire hooked to the battery also, and running to the coil. If it is only the small wire, I would guess it would soon go up in smoke! that small wire can't handle that kind of current load. You need good, heavy battery cables, so all of the current gets to the starter, so it will crank properly. If some one put on a 12V cable, it isn't large enough to carry sufficent current. If you have properly sized cables, and good connections on both ends of both the + and - cables, it should crank fine. That also means the starter has to be in good condition, and the timing correct. with that wire running direct to the coil, I hope you disconnected the battery when you finished playing, or you can cause all kinds of headaches. I suggest you get a key switch and get it wired correctly before you go much farther. It is already mickey Moused up. Put it back to original and correct, before you get into more trouble. Then, go back to the basics. Check for fuel and spark. If either of those are missing, time to trouble shoot, trace down the systems to see where the problem is. Get us more information. It's hard to give you a complete auto shop class here, without more information.

Try posting the pic again so we can see exactly what you are talking about, and someone here will answer your question.

[bhclark]

Can't seem to get the pic to load? It's 640x480?

The postive battery cable to the starter looks to be 2 gauge.(I think it should be 1?) The negative cable is 4 gauge. (I know that should be a strap instead, but is that also equivalent to a 1 gauge?)

The other wire connected to the battery is a small wire, 14 gauge or so, connected to the coil instead of the key ignition. The car turned over and ran fine(with gas poured into the carb) when I bought it, but will only go grrr grrr grrr slowly now?

The battery does register 6.4 volts. Is that enough or does it need charged? (i know 12 volt batteries normally measure about 13.5 or so and have heard that these 6 volt systems are tougher to start.)

[critterpainter]

Nope...no pic, no water pump pic. battery sounds low in charge. is the car "driveable" so you can coast start it?

Bill

[JFranklin]

Go to a truck shop and get 00 gauge cables and then make sure your ground cable is to bright mettal were it attaches make sure the battery is fully charged and inspect the starter switch if that doesnt do it pull the plugs and se if it turnes fast if not take your starter to a reputable restorer. Good luck and let us know how it all works out!

[Guest brh]

I'll admit I am flying blind and have limited knowledge of the 40's. I do know an incorrect battery cable will cause a car to act like the battery is dying even a cable too long will do this. In restoring a 34 Olds Dad and I made the mistake of hot wiring the coil directly to the points, because of no ignition switch. They had a real nice glow to them before they burned up. Ya cannot run your points hot all the time, only when you are ready to start and drive. A simple toggle switch cured that. Also on systems that have generators when you install a new battery, you must make sure the generator is polarized so the juice is going in the right direction, otherwise your generator will be drawing rather than charging the battery. Hope some of this helps ya out.

[Podster]

Give this a shot. Run a 0 or 00 lugged cable from your chassis to your block. Make sure the lugs are attached to bare metal on both ends. I remember having the same problem with my '40 Special, and that seemed to help a little. You also need a good, strong battery. How many CCA's does your new battery have? Cars,Inc, in Neshantic Station, NJ (a very cool place to visit) sold me one that works beautifully. Tractor Supply also has one with high CCA, but I haven't worn out the one that I have now, in order to try there's. But the key thing is heavy, uncorroded cables. Also buy a Battery Tender. Six volt batteries tend to die quick when they are not kept charged. Slow charged.