Painting hubcaps and emblems

[Guest batjac]

Okay, my hubcaps need a new coat of black and red, and the rear emblem needs a coat of red. What paint should I use?

[Guest imported_Speedster]

For fast and easy paint, I recommend Rustolium spray cans. They have a great 'Automotive Primer', but finding the exact colors you want may be difficult.

For long lasting, more durable paint, and better color selection, I recommend Acrylic Enamel with catylist hardener, purchased from Automotive Paint store. If you are doing very small areas then you can use small artist brushes to apply it.

Any good exterior gloss Enamel will work but real automotive paint is Always Better, but more expensive and I think a pint is the smallest can size.

[Guest imported_49packard]

What is the secret to painting the black around the raised lettering "Packard"

[Clipper47]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is the secret to painting the black around the raised lettering "Packard" </div></div>

This may seem bizarre but I covered the entire centre with clear packing tape so I could tell where I was scribing it in the next step. I then cut out the tape with an exacto knife exposing just the ring with the words "Packard", spayed them with black paint and finally scraped off the raised lettering with a tiny scraper which leaves the black in the depression around the lettering . For the centres octagon I purchased the reflective decals from the Packard Club -4 for $10 I believe.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

It really depends on how much artistic ability you have and how many of them you have done, to get the practice. After about 2 of them I could move fast enough that the paint flowed evenly before drying. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> But I also have a lot of practice with small brushes, painting ship and aircraft models and oil painting.

[HH56]

A method I've used is to spray the area, then let dry just a bit. Have a small block of wood size and shape to span 2 or 3 letters and wrapped with a layer or two of cloth (something like a T shirt) and damp with laquer thinner. When the paint is just tacky carefully wipe the letters. The wood will ride the letters and paint on top will come off leaving the paint in depressed areas. It is tedious and be careful not to let the cloth get too wet or be so thick or loose it will compress down into depressed areas. Do it once or twice, using clean areas of cloth, then let paint dry some more and do again if needed to clean up any smudges. A bit of experimenting will let you judge the thicknes of cloth and technique.

[Guest imported_Packards1]

I have sprayed the the cap area also and let it dry. I then used a rubber sanding block with a piece of felt on it. A little water and rubbing compound and carefull "sanding" of the top surfaces left the black paint in the depressions. The beauty is, if a mistake is made you can apply some paint to the affected area and rub that area again when it dries. The hexagons are available through the club but you can also buy a roll of the 3M material and cut your own easy enough.

[Guest BigKev]

One of the things you can do is generously rub car wax on the raised areas and the hubcap surface keeping it out of the depressed areas you want the paint to stick. Let the wax haze over, but do not wipe it off. The you can spray the area with paint. Let it dry and then wipe off all the paint right off the raised waxed areas while the paint stays on the non-waxed areas. The wax will keep the paint from sticking to the areas you dont want painted. It has worked for me.

[tbirdman]

I had mine painted by a truck lettering and pinstipping guy. $300 for a set of 6. Looks real good but not cheap. He used the slow drying easy flowing lettering paint.