Guest CL_Reatta Posted July 9, 2006 Posted July 9, 2006 While spending today manufacturing a CAI (well sorta)out of plumbing supplies (hey it was 60% off at the sears store-closing sale so I have almost nothing to lose <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />)I have been able to make it so that the cone filter is sitting between the relay center and the wheel well. I was wondering if putting a blower fan (approx. 150 CFM and low amp. draw) below the windshield washer fluid and relay center would make the CAI more meaningful, I was thinking this because from what I can tell there is no "ram air" movement from the intake behind the headlight because the headlight blocks it, so a blower would keep the area around the filter cool, or am I wrong about there being no "blower" movement from the car moving. I am not attempting to create pressure just keep air cold, well colder then the 200+ temp. under the hood. Also it WOULD NOT be directly in-line with the intake so if the engine needs more then 150 CFM there will be no restriction.
Guest EDBSO Posted July 9, 2006 Posted July 9, 2006 I covered my cone filter and then extended the cover with a hose under the relays and through the front rad bulkhead. I only get cold air.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted July 9, 2006 Posted July 9, 2006 ok, well after about 6 hours of work total, a sore lip and a bloody nose (A stuck pipe suddenly became un-stuck)I got it in including the blower fan, its not pretty yet but it will work for when I take it back to the dealer later this week to have the new headliner put in.
Guest F14CRAZY Posted July 9, 2006 Posted July 9, 2006 This is interesting. If it was the bilge blower thing, I would say it's a waste, but using it to move cool air might be effective.
Guest CL_Reatta Posted July 10, 2006 Posted July 10, 2006 Here is a picture of the CAI, I insulated it with that self adhesive reflective insulator from Lowes, and then Reynolds wrap around that (just temporary until I get the better looking mylar.) and then placed a Reynolds wrap shield between the filter and the wheel well to keep the air from the blower in that area (temporary also until I can get some fiberglass or something) and of course the blower and Reynolds wrap is being help down by the incredible not so edible duct tape for now. got it running earlier, then went to start it up to put the car on ramps to install the fan switch about an hour ago and nothing happened, the dash lighted up but no cranking or anything <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />, hopefully a dyeing battery again, if not them iv' e got a bit of a problem on my hands I think?
2seater Posted July 11, 2006 Posted July 11, 2006 You could make a U-tube water manometer to see if there is a pressure difference from one area to the other. One end of the tube is placed forward of the opening for the air filter, like behind the headlight and the other end inside the enclosure for the filter. Extend the tubing inside the car and form a "U" in the tubing taped to a cardboard scale maybe 12" high inside the car so it can be seen. Fill the "U" portion about 1/2 way with colored water. Clear vinyl tubing is cheap and works well for this. 1/4" is a good diameter, but anything will work. The clear part is only needed for the "U", anything else will do for the rest as long as it doesn't leak air. This a a simple instrument but is very sensitive. When testing air flow through the radiator I found there was a difference in the pressure differential just when following another car on the highway or in clear air, also if running into or with the wind.
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