rear taillight lens maintenance

[122838B]

My current 90 Reatta coup, which has been garage kept, has a clear rear taillight lens. My first outdoors only 90 Reatta had a rear taillight lens that suffered from what I suspect are the damaging effect of UV rays from the sun, causing cloudy, dark conditions. What I would like to know is whether there is a proven way to keep clear the taillight lens or must I surrender to invetible damage from the sun's harsh rays as times goes by? I have noticed that newer cars with the same types of rear lens do not suffer the damage seen in the Reattas.

[Guest jcc3inc]

Sir,

I used polish, DuPont #7 and a cloth; it cleaned up quickly, and I don't know how long it may last.

Regards,

Jack C.

[Barney Eaton]

Almost any polish will make a big difference. Some owners swear by one product or another and I am sure some are better. Molded plastics have a "skin" that is formed on the outer surface when they are molded and as you polish on them you remove some of this surface. Because of this it seems that once you start polishing they never stay slick as long as the original.

Check your auto parts store for plastic polishes, or even motorcycle windshield polish. Again almost any will work...I have even used mag wheel polish and it does not scratch the plastic and will polish it. BE CAREFUL around the B U I C K letters, you can polish off the chrome.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I've found Meguiares Plastix to work well. Thing is that you have to use it like every other wash, cuz it gets cloudy again. It's readily available though.

[Shelby]

FLIGHT JACKET POLISH Stock No.: AER1032

AeroShell Flight Jacket Polish - 16 oz. - Designed to help keep your plane looking new by protecting the plane's painted and unpainted surfaces. Protects paint in one step, deep shines, UV block, cleans, Works on fresh paint and bright metal.

Unit of Measure: EACH Unit Price: $15.00

[Tom_O]

The Tail-light rear lens in my 90 had the same problem. I removed the assy. and get some "optical polish". Auto Zone has it. It's $11.00 and the product is impregnated to foam discs that have a peel n stick adhesive. You apply the pads to a (supplied receiver w/drill shank). I chucked mine into my portable drill, followed the instructions and, poof, the "clouds parted" on the lens. A note, keep the lens wet ( used a spritz bottle) and it's a snap to use.

[ncgirl05]

Now that we've covered rear tail light lens cleaning, what do you all use to clean the chrome parts? I can't find anything that works.......

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Like the door handles? Or do you mean the bumpers (aluminum)?

[ncgirl05]

Sorry - yes, the front and back bumpers - I can't seem to make the clouds go away....

[Guest F14CRAZY]

It's clearcoat over aluminum, I know. Don't know how to make it better

[Guest CL_Reatta]

I used some bumper and trim polish and it only worked for about a week, So if you want to keep it shiny but work on it every few days you can use that lol

[Vincent Vega]

I recall reading that the bumpers are anodized. That means the clouds won't clear up. Awhile back someone posted about stripping and polishing them.

[Roadster90]

I also have read the word "strip" on the anodized bumper thing. Does this refer to a chemical stripping as in paint remover or is it a mechanical process performed by a vendor of some sort?

[DeeBee]

Yes, that metal part is anodized. If you go through the trouble to taking it off, most plating shops can re-anodize it. If you go through that trouble however, you can also paint it metallic or cover it with that TAP Plastic wrap material which comes in brushed aluminim and gives a factory look. It will last many many years.

[Guest CL_Reatta]

I've got some chrome spray paint laying around the house from when I worked on some christmas decorations, would just spraying that stuff on every few weeks,months, or whenever it flakes off work? rather then re-anodize it.

[Guest MauiWowee]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got some chrome spray paint laying around. </div></div>

Hahaha..............we used to call that "Kentucky chrome". <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[DeeBee]

For that aluminum strip between the rubber part of the bumper, doing the prep will make a huge difference. Being aluminum, first strip whatever finish is there. What works really well is the non-coated aluminum wheel cleaner. It's quite agressive but will make the aluminum nice a bare. Then primer it. Painting directly on aluminum is difficult to get right. There is another choice though and it has worked for me when I used to work with aluminum a lot.

Use a Scotch pad to clean the aluminum. You can put the pad on an orbital polisher to get a random type finish or by hand in a same direction motion for that brushed look. When it's nice and clean spray the result with a clear acylic finish. Several light coats work very well and are quite durable to everything except alcahol and things like that. With the UV resistant types it can last a few years. The costs shouldn't be more than the price of a can of finish and some scotch pads.

[Guest jcc3inc]

Since the bumper is clear anodized and part of my bumper has a "haze" to it, I tried spraying it with clear coat (lacquer in the touch-up can) and it seemed to restore the nice original appearance.

Regards,

Jack C.