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Engine noise and other problems. Plz help


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Hey, thanks for the reply. I'm gonna bring it to the mechanic tonight. <P>When I said that it had no oil pressure, I meant the gauge on the dash (with the little oil can) showed only one little block. (I just got an oil change yesterday, so it couldn't be a low oil level.)<P>Just another quick question...how much should I be ready to pay for a rod bearing job?<P>Thanks

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Hey there - sounds like an engine with problems (hate to say). Low oil level will not cause low oil pressure. I've also got a 1990, but with 185k on her. Blew the engine at 176k & had a used one put in. The replacement wouldn't hold oil pressure - ran a compression test & the results weren't good. Luckily, the place honored their warranty & replaced it at no charge with a MUCH better engine.<BR>If you need a total rebuild on yours, you might want to look at replacing the engine instead. Remember, if the top end has to be rebuilt, the bottom end isn't far behind.<BR>~Brenda

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If you got the oil changed and this pressure<BR>problem happened shortly after then the<BR>grease monkey forgot to but in oil or did not<BR>tighten the oil plug. Sue him.

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Hi,<P> I own a 1990 buick reatta, 136,329 miles, with red exterior and tan interior. I recenltly purchased it (6 months ago) for 2700 dollars. Since then, I have put in a new battery, and new wheel bearings.<P>Now, the problem I just came across this past week is this:<P>When I slow down to a red light I have no oil pressure in the engine.<P>The engine really knocks (very loud)<P>You hear a seemingly hollow thump when I make a hard right.<P>Any help as to what this may be would be appreciated. I don't expect anyone to tell me how to fix anything, just what you're past experiences may have taught you. I don't want to take it to a mechanic, and have them do a 1000 dollar job and not even fix the problem.<P>Thanks<BR>-Hollywood

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From what you describe, it's time to see professional advice. What you describe doesn't sound good, but then is the knocking you hear, rod bearings, or something else. What do you mean there's 'no oil pressure'? Dash gauge tell you that? Better bite the bullet and have someone TRUSTWORTHY verify this. If it IS rod bearing noise, it won't last long.

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Hey, I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find a USED engine for the car. The mechanic said that the engine needed quite extensive repairs, and that a new/used engine tradeout would be the best bet.<P>Well, thanks for any input.

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I'd suggest calling a few local junk/salvage yards. Compare price/warranty/milage. Though low milage doesn't necessarilly mean it's better. Make sure they'll back the used motor for at least 6 months.

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Hollywood,<P>Used Buick 3.8 engines are abundant and relatively cheap. They were used in Park Avenues, Regals, LeSabres, Pontiac Bonnevilles, Olds 98s and 88s. Just get one out of the same model year as your Reatta. <P>I'd go with Brenda's recommendations plus a couple of additional points. Call around and find one yourself. Good 3.8s are going for around $350-650 here in South Texas. When you find one, GO TO THE JUNKYARD AND LISTEN TO THE ENGINE RUN BEFORE THEY PULL IT OUT OF THE CAR--NO EXCEPTIONS!! <P>There are several reasons for this. First, listening can tell you a lot about the engine's condition, as you have already learned. Second, you want to look at the condition and mileage of the car it's coming out of. Find a car that looks like it was taken care of, overlooking any damage caused by the wreck. Chances are, if the paint, seats, carpet and other components look great, the engine got regular maintenance. It was probably totalled when the owner was hit by a careless driver. DO NOT, for any reason, buy an engine out of a car that looks like it died due to neglect or abuse, or that the body or the engine looked as if it had been extensively modified. If the car's owner was content to look at torn, filthy carpet and seats, chances are he didn't care about the condition of the oil.<P>Why find it yourself rather than let the shop find one? Simple--if you find an engine for $500-600, the shop would charge you $800-1200 for the same engine. The shop will often try to convince you to let them find it for you, saying they won't guarantee the engine if you buy your own engine. Guess what--they are not guaranteeing the engine anyway, the salvage yard selling the engine is providing the warranty. The ONLY down side to this is if they buy the engine and guarantee it and it blows up, they will include the labor to replace it in the warranty. <P>When you are ready to have it put in, agree to a complete price with the shop. A $900 "estimate" for labor can quickly turn into a $1500 final bill if the shop likes to "sell up" their customers. <P>Good luck. <P>Joe

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