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I hope someone can help me with this problem I am having. Car runs great but it?s getting it started that is the problem. I haven't done much in diagnoses yet but i thought i would run it buy you guys first. I now own an 89. It takes a good minuit of cranking and cycling of the key to get it started. I start cranking but no kick. I cycle the key a few times then it kicks once and dies. I then crank again and it doesn't even get a full revolution and it starts. No miss or anything. Just starts and runs fine. If i shut it off and leave it for a few minuits it will start up with no problem. I am thinking i have a fuel problem.

I do hear the fuel pump every time i cycle the key and while I am cranking. I am thinking the pressure is dropping while it sits. I will be checking the fuel pressure, spark and injector pulse this weekend. I will probably also do an injector balance test just to be safe. Any ideas of what else to check? Thanks Again.

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Fuel pressure varies a little between regulators and gauge accuracy but something in the 40-44 psi range with key on, engine off, and 34-38 psi with engine at idle. Fuel pressure should spike upwards when the throttle is blipped with engine running from idle.

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Gomer,,,

I have the Exact same problem right now (actually for the last two weeks)with my 90 coupe.....started acting up overnight. I thought I had it fixed by replacing the ICM and coil pak (fuel pressure is fine @ 41/36), but it fooled me by starting 1/2 way decent the next morning or two.....problem is still there. ECM is next maybe.

Two Seater and Padgett should have the answers.......

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I'm experiencing the same problem. Started over night. Fuel pump was replaced about three months ago, so I'm guessing that's NOT the problem. Haven't run the codes or fuel pressure tests, however. Seems electrical in nature, but that's just my intuition. Possible injector woes??

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2seater knows his 3800 engines.......

The fuel pressure is easy to check but you need a gage. Try turning on the key but wait 5-10 seconds for the pump to build pressure. If that works, it could be a weak pump or there is a pressure check valve that releases pressure back to the tank, if the check valve is bad, stuck or otherwise not doing its job, the system will not hold pressure and the pump must re-pressurize the system everytime the car is started.

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so if it is the check valve,is the check valve part of the pump or sending unit.I am getting ready to replace the pump and hope I do not need the sending unit,it is very costly.Gomer replace your relay first,it can cause similer problems.

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I think i got it!!! Only 30 mins of work <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Started by checking fuel pressure. Turned key....Nothing! Cranked..... nothing! cycled key....nothing. Checked Pump by sending power down test lead. Pump works and brings pressure to 43. Turned key and engine starts and runs. Shut down. bleed off pressure and try starting again..... Nothing. Found wiring diagrams in service manual for 88.(took 15 mins out of the total 30) checked powers to relay. All looked good. Sent power to pump from relay connector. Pump starts up. 43 psi. Traded relay form 88 reatta to 89 reatta. Starts no problem. Switch back relay.... Nothing. Hmmmm i am going to take a wiled guess that the relay is SHOT!!!! Now here is the problem.... The relay from the 88 and the relay from the 89 are not the same.

88=25525638

89=25530731

Why the change???? It still works but it doesn't look right and it doesn't fit back in the relay holder. Is the 25530731 still available from gm??? Thanks for the help again. Good luck to those of you who have the same problem as i had.

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CONGRATS GOMER!!!!

I have the same exact problem but with a 90 coupe.... I have replaced the relay several times.....No difference in starting performance >>>> or lack of. I just got back from Advance with an ECM under my shoulder....trying it in a few moments and will report. Hal (2 seater) states that it controls initial starting spark or fuel I believe. Fingers crossed <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />.

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Gomer,

Those relays have been superceded I think several times. If memory serves me right there's a galvanized steel mounting tab on the back of the newer/ replacement relay. It is attached to the relay via slots molded into the relay body. If this is the case you can remove that steel bracket and use the '88 mount on the firewall. Probably 5 or 6 years ago I ran into that and the above solution worked for me.

Barney has me confused with the business about a check valve. The fuel pressure regulator mounted on/in the fuel rail behind the throttle body can fail. In that case all fuel pressure would just route back to the tank via the return line and you'd potentially end up with a fried fuel pump. I think there may be a check valve built into the pump that holds fuel from draining back into the tank.

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Hal,

I still have my initial problems....same as Gomers. Replaced the ICM, coil pak, and ECM. Also the fuel pump relay, and the MAF. Just finished replacing the temperature sensor 20 minutes ago. Not holding my breath for a remedy as yet....will know tomorrow morning I guess <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />. I bought a MAT Sensor, but don't know where the darn thing goes...the manual has a listing "L", but no location on the diagram. I really think that part would code if defective though <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />.

Nic

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Temperature sensor made NO difference. Replaced the plugs and wires a few minutes ago (a job)...will have to wait till the morning to see if they will make a difference. The wires broke coming off (delco)and the plugs were # 3 s, and gapped @ 60. They stopped making those for some reason...wonder why???

Anyway, keeping finges crossed. Any thoughs please?

Just a note...when I replaced the wires before I used dielectric grease on the boots and the wires were still almost IMPOSSIBLE to break loose????

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I have had this problem until yesterday.Finally got around to replaceing the fuel pump and the sending unit as well as the fuel filter.After removeing the tank and old pump unit and filter.I installed the new ac delco parts and reinstalled tank.Took about four hours,the most trouble was draining the tank and cleaning it out.I used a water hose and then shop air to remove the left over water.After air drying I put three bottles of dry gas in and slushed it around tll all water was removed.I put fresh fuel in and let it run for awhile,pressure was consistant and sounded really good.Then the real test,went out this morning and started it up.It started just like I had been driveing it all day.I am very pleased with my self,ha.ha.ha.So maybe the check valve insidethe sending unit was the problem all along. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

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David,,,

Fuel was my 1st concern and problem idea....but I checked the fuel pressure with an external pressure gauge and I had 41 lbs with the key on (only when cold 1st thing),and 36 at idle just after started (per the factory service manual instructions). I checked it 3 days in a row and 1st thing in the morning each time before starting as to take bleed down into consideration and it was the same 41/36 eadh morning. The rest of the day it starts right up fine. HELP PLEASE...?

If I don't find this problem for sure in the next few days, and assuming that it might be a weak pump, do you folks think I will be taking a towing and repair job chance >>> at risk down in "no mans repair land" (Duck N.C.) if I drive it for a week??? Does anyone know of a repair facility in the Norfolk, Va area as well as the Duck, and Kitty Hawk N.C. Areas please? Might as well get prepared <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Nic

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just a note...when I replaced the wires before I used dielectric grease on the boots and the wires were still almost IMPOSSIBLE to break loose???? </div></div>

I have the same experience <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> BUMMER <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

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Aw, man, wish I could have told you. If replacing the fuel pump, and it still kinda works, you can remove the pressured line under the hood from the fuel rail and attached a piece of hose, and apply power to the mysterious connector near the air cleaner. You can pump the fuel into a can in a few minutes.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm having the hard start problem after it sits for a while and it seems to be getting worse, I also get the Electrical Problem Error message (code E041) on the screen of my 89 but not every day, could the cam sensor also cause the hard starting problem? Does any one know where to get a shop manual for the 89 Reatta?

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I don't think E041 causes really hard starting. Maybe a couple more seconds, but that's all. Might want to let someone else reply on this though.

You can download the factory service manual, for free, at Reatta.net under Documentation. You have to sign up but you'll get a password emailed to you quickly.

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Not hard at all...requires a pressure gauge available at Advance or any other parts store (not very expensive). Attaches with finger pressure to the fuel rail by a thumb nut. You take two readings, one before starting by just cutting the key on, and the other after starting at idle. This procedure "should" determine if you have fuel pump/regulator problems....

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It is the fitting/valve on the fuel rail that goes through the plastic engine "3800" trim cover....the valve is located in a circular hole in the trim cover that is around the size of a quarter. Carefully take off the engine plastic trim cover as it is much easier and the valve has a screw on thumb cap.

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I just found out today I had a leak in the gas line by the left rear wheel, so I think it was draining the fuel line. I fixed the leak and going to wait until morning to see if this fixed my problem.

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