Inline Fuse for Torsion Level

[Loyd Smith]

After having worked perfectly since I bought this '55 Pat the inline fuse for Torsion Leveler off of the starter has started to blow on a regular basis. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[WCraigH]

Obviously an intermittant short. When does it blow? Only when T-L working? If so, working in which direction? If not, does it blow when the T-L is switched off? Do you have a DPDT-type manual control switch on it? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[Loyd Smith]

Appears to be blowing when working toward the upper quadrant (raising the rear). Does not blow when the system is turned off. I do not have a manual control switch installed; only the system on - off switch that was installed when I acquired the car.

[HH56]

Anything on tech bulletin 55-T2 applicable (on PackardInfo site)? Also, any corrosion or poor connections between starter, fuse, solenoids (even internal in solenoid), and motor would cause an increased current draw and blown fuse as well. On my car the most work seems to be in the up direction the last few inches, so possibly yours is just about maximum and the little extra required in the last quadrant is enough to blow the fuse.

[Guest Randy Berger]

I would disconnect the battery and then, one connection at a time, disconnect and clean each connection. A small motorised wire brush should do the job. Check each connection as you clean it for frayed wires, etc. Take down the limit switch and clean it thoroughly including the internal contacts. Remove the wires from the motor and clean those terminals up also. Use a small wrench to hold the stud nut in place while you remove the nut holding the terminal wire. Remove the cover band that protects the brushes and commutator and look at it for thrown solder, etc. It sometimes is difficult to get the band back on - have patience. After you have gone over all the electrical connections you will have a good idea of the electrical health of your T/L system. The gear reduction may also need to be lubed. Look in your shop manual for that procedure. When was the last time you lubed it? Just take your time doing all this and don't get frustrated. Let us know how you make out.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

The problem may be the bearing on end of shaft, that is connected to motor, inside the gear box, it is one of the weakest parts in the system. Since it is turning at very high RPM, the bearing burns up the grease in and around it. Therefore the bearing binds up from heat and no lubricate, causing the motor to draw more current and blow the fuse.

The end cap needs to be removed to inspect bearing and put in more grease, but if it is binding that much the bearing probably needs to be replaced, and it's best to remove the gearbox from car when doing that, which is a major job in labor. The bearing is easy to find and only cost about $3. The end cap is much easier to get out if motor and shaft are removed and then knocked out with a long rod, from back side.

I drilled and taped the end cap and installed a grease fitting, so I could grease it at same time I do other suspension parts.

[Loyd Smith]

Thanks for the info, everyone. Have printed out the applicable STBs and, thanks to all of you, now know where and how to start checking it out.

[HH56]

Just for grins measured my 56 this AM. When going thru level area it is pretty consistently 14-16 amps either direction, but when nearing either extreme it goes up to 22-24 amps. Packard changed the fuse to 30A in 56 but the rest of circuit, aside from the relocated components and slightly different switches on the control side, is pretty much identical to 55. If after checking the items everyone has suggested and finding things OK, if your fuse is still 20A maybe a change would help. The fact it worked until recently makes me think you will find something amiss though.

[Loyd Smith]

I suspect that you're correct and that something is amiss. Unless I am hallucinating (again), I changed the fuse to 30 Amp last year. Thanks to superior knowledge gained from contributors to this forum, the problem will be diagnosed and fixed. Since I actually printed the responses on this forum and the applicable STBs the hallucination/memory problem won't be a factor (I hope)although I do have to sleep a couple of times before we start on this Monday.

Thanks to everyone, again.

[Guest Randy Berger]

Lloyd, if you find out that you need the bearing at the end of the worm drive, let me know. I have several spares and you can have one for the cost of shipping.

[Loyd Smith]

Thanks Randy. I'll let you know as soon as I do.

[yesterdays]

Hello, I had the same problem years ago. I tracked it down to worn insulation on the underside of the wire that runs under the sill plate on the driver side.

The system would work properly and I would hit a bump and the system would short out. I taped the wire and haven't had a problem since. I hope this helps.

Jerry