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1955 olds vacuum lines - windshield wipers

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Well - I need pictures of everything assembled in order to help you. A picture of a mounting plate simply is of no value in solving your current problem but it a mounting place that will accept a Chevy electric wiper motor.

A series of pictures with EVERYTHING mounted and with a pointer tracing the various lines at the wiper motor over the engine, to the vacuum pump, from the vacuum pump to the manifold (or carb). The wiper control cable mounted and adjusted (do you have a shop manual?).

Ron

I have a picture of a 56 caddy disassembled showing the three major parts. The engine needs to be running for more than 10 seconds to ensure a reasonable vacuum supply is available to the wipers. Get the engine problems solved first, then with a steady 16 to 18 inches of vacuum, we can work on solving the wiper problem. Stick a cork in the "open" hole and see if the engine will run. Power brakes run from a port at the rear of carb. Does the car have power brakes? I would get a good battery or borrow one until the engine runs trouble free.

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the engine runs great it's just that the battery that's shot so i could not get it started(started right up but stalled and no juice in the battery to crank it again) until last night, I had it running for a minute or two and no function what so ever.

Yeah ill might pull the motor apart and take some pics but as it is now I'm thinking electric.

Yes the car has PB, works like crazy to...stops better then my passat with 320mm discs(or it feels that way since there is no seat belts to hold you back in the olds :D)

The line that goes to the wiper motor comes from the back of the carb from a connecting block

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Given your description of the engine only running a very short time it would appear there are more issues than just the battery or the wiper motor. Given the car has been sitting as long as you indicate you have a lot of things to go through. If it were my car I'd disconnect all vacuum lines from the engine and plug the nipples the lines attached to. You may have more vacuum leaks than you realize, not to mention fuel delivery related issues. It's hard to isolate engine issues without basically isolating the engine so to speak.

I suspect you may well have vacuum leaks around the carburetor, the choke is probably not functioning correctly, and there may be crud in the fuel. You've got to get those issues dealt with before any vacuum operated accessory or even the engine itself will run correctly.

Once the engine is straightened out, I'd do a wholesale replacement of all vacuum lines regardless of what they go to.

Jim

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oh no, the car runs good...i just explain things bad :P It was just the initial start-up that it started and stalled, as soon as both batteries where charged it started and idled as good as ever. The reason that i just ran it a short time is that it is in the garage and i got a steep hill up to my garage that's covered in ice this time of the year(I live a fair bit north of any of you i guess, just a bit south of the polar circle) so i cant get it outside yet.

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Still you could raise the door knee high to let in fresh air and wear a coat - The wiper motor does NOT run directly off the intake vacuum as originally manufactured. Yes it should run off intake vacuum if there is any present.

Two questions are 1) do you have a shop manual, 2) is the wiper cpntrol cable attached and aligned per the manual.

Did you have the slide valve that the control cable attaches to apart?

With a short piece of vacuum line you can literally suck on the hose with it attached to the vacuum motor. If it is relatively air tight, then it is likely in the off position. Push the valve to the other extreme and suck and the motor should move some.

Again - you have a camera and it only takes a few minutes to snap 10 or so picures of everything pointed out.

I shot over 200 pictures of my brake job on one wheel today to record everything from most every angle. On this car so far over 3,000 pictures and counting. Digital is cheap as is the storage.

Good luck with your Olds.

Ron

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Still you could raise the door knee high to let in fresh air and wear a coat - The wiper motor does NOT run directly off the intake vacuum as originally manufactured. Yes it should run off intake vacuum if there is any present.

Two questions are 1) do you have a shop manual, 2) is the wiper cpntrol cable attached and aligned per the manual.

Did you have the slide valve that the control cable attaches to apart?

With a short piece of vacuum line you can literally suck on the hose with it attached to the vacuum motor. If it is relatively air tight, then it is likely in the off position. Push the valve to the other extreme and suck and the motor should move some.

Again - you have a camera and it only takes a few minutes to snap 10 or so picures of everything pointed out.

I shot over 200 pictures of my brake job on one wheel today to record everything from most every angle. On this car so far over 3,000 pictures and counting. Digital is cheap as is the storage.

Good luck with your Olds.

Ron

Yeah tried that and i got no movement or resistance what so ever in either of the positions of the valve...so JPL street rods got some of my hard earned cash for a electric wiper motor(took the easy way out:o)

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Yeah tried that and i got no movement or resistance what so ever in either of the positions of the valve...so JPL street rods got some of my hard earned cash for a electric wiper motor(took the easy way out:o)

Probably the best choice, especially if you ever get caught in a rain unexpectedly. Having wipers that won't work, or barely work in a rain is much like burned out headlamps after the Sun goes down. Not good!

Jim

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With the engine vacuum line disconnected - engine running - use either a gage or your finger over the vacuum line - there should 16 inches or better with a gage or if it sucks your finger into the line - it okay.

Ron

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I am trying to figure out the same ques for my 54..where lines go to make the wipre work. There is a hard line from fule pump that slits to rubber 1 going tot he top inlet of wiper moter...no idea where other one goes. There is an outlet on the bottom, nothing attached. Do you have any pics or canu draw me a diagram? Thanks![/QU

Hello - if there is vacuum at the carburetor outlet 't' one line goes from there to the port on the fuel pump closest to the engine.

The other line from the other pump port to the wiper motor vacuum pipe usually on the left of the motor. Not the short breather pipe in the very front. Leave that one open.

I took PB (power blaster) spray (similar to WD40) and sprayed the wiper motor vac inlet pipe while working it by hand until I could hear the diaphragm pumping inside the motor. It is now working pretty well. I will adjust the cables soon for a more correct operation. Good luck

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Hi, hope this discussion could be put back to life. Like Sweed, I am also from Europe and have little to no recourse to expert advice on my 1954 Olds 88 (4 door base sedan).

 

After 1.5 year of work, we got her running and boy is she beautiful... Rebuilt almost everything, inter Alia the power brake booster and master+wheel brake cylinders. The engine runs fine, brakes work well. I have the same situation with the fuel pump as someone here, the previous owner disconnected the fuel/vacuum pump and installed the tank-submerged electric pump instead. I have installed the combined fuel/vacuum pump but it is still unconnected to the rest of the system.

 

Now, I cannot get the wipers working at all (the right one moves, the left does not), and there is something strange when the car is in reverse - the brakes seem to work 30% as compared to what they do when the car is in Dr or S gear. What also does not work is the windscreen washer. I have not recreated the full vacuum system as no one knows where to connect which hose. 

 

I can can see in plain sight that I have ports (dunno if out or in) open on the wiper motor, vacuum pump, and the air cleaner, Could not find the port on the gearbox, supposedly there is one.

 

The transmission shifts upwards smoothly from 0 to 1, from 1 to 2, and from 3 to 4. The 2 to 3 shifting is rough, with a loud thump. Downwards, shifts from 3 to 2 and 2 to 1 are similarly rough. In either case (up- or downwards) the thump is smoother if the engine is on higher revs.

 

I would highly  appreciate the answers to the following questions:

1. Could it be that the vacuum is the cause that the brakes work poorly when in reverse?

2. Could it be that the vacuum is the cause of rough gear shifting?

3. Can someone please draw the full vacuum diagram, or literally list the vacuum lines and describe where each of them connects?

4. Any clever advice on any of the issues described here will be most appreciated. Also, any other advice is most welcome. 

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

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hi, nothing connects to the dual range hydra-matic in a vacuum way. just two control rods and levers, one for gear selection that you choose at the steering column, and the other is throttle pressure, which will delay a upshift according to how much throttle your foot is asking of the engine by how much you're stepping on the gas pedal. there's a vacuum hose that connects the power brake booster to the vacuum lines that goes to a vacuum reserve tank, a check valve, and to the vacuum source on the intake manifold or carburetor, i'm guessing that perhaps when you shift into reverse, the linkage may be touching or even pinching the hose to the booster, that may not be the case. 

 

carburetor or intake manifold-------------------one way check valve---------------vacuum tee fitting---------------reserve tank-----------power brake vacuum booster.

 

the rough 2-3 upshift may be due to too much throttle pressure, but you may need a band adjustment performed too.

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Thanks, Pontiac. The transmission is being disassembled as we speak. Meanwhile I also bought the tranny master rebuild kit so I hope the rough shifting will be taken care of.

 

Re vacuum lines: OK, I get how it works for the power brake booster.  

What about the line that ends in the wiper motor? Where does it come from? 

 

Are there any other lines which I am not aware of?

 

Sorry if my questions are dumb, but that's how it is... here in Europe there are hardly any cars using vacuum (some old Mercedes and Mazda models, perhaps).

 

Thank you again.

I attach a photo of my 88 taken a couple of weeks ago, still with CA plates :)

 

IMG-3b210a4db0e90e6cf284088e7c70abfc-V.jpg

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I think there is a line coming of the carburetor that runs to a tee. One of the tees runs to the wipers, the other end runs to the vacuum pump on top of the fuel pump. Theoretically, when the engine lacks vacuum, the vacuum pump is supposed to compensate.

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