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Posted

eBay price $110.05 Thanks Again ~Reatta~ Members.

It was a nice run.

Have Fun with your ~Reatta~.

Maybe one day we'll ride together again.

But, Until Then...

See ya on the 1970's SkyLark & GS Forum cool.gif

Post deleted by Filobedo

Guest F14CRAZY
Posted

yeah I know. I need to get to doing that one of these days. Bought it that way and couldn't ever figure out why someone swapped the steering wheel and column

Guest wwollet
Posted

How hard is it to install this stering wheel? I need to replace mine but I got a 1988 and the center "R" is different....

Posted

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How hard is it to install this stering wheel? I need to replace mine but I got a 1988 and the center "R" is different.... </div></div>

EASY STEERING WHEEL REPLACEMENT:

After pulling off the horn button & disconecting wire, loosen the nut until it's flush with the end of the shafts threads. Brace knees on both sides behind wheel. Then tap on the nut with a hammer while applying pressure with legs. PoP!

Install new Wheel onto shaft by tightening nut wink.gif

Posted

I don't mean to step on Filobedo's toes but I was working on a response while he posted. And dangit... I gots pitchers an everthin so, Ima postin. ( I was raised in Pennsylvania... please forgive if the dialect sometimes oozes out.)

[color:\\"red\\"] See attached in this and the next three posts.

post-67519-143137894666_thumb.jpg

Posted

Yah, I know the figure in the previous post is for a Riviera wheel but, you get the idea.

[color:\\"red\\"] See attached for a photo of a substitute for the J-23072 puller mentioned in the manual.

Bought this at Auto Zone for about $20.00.

post-67519-143137894686_thumb.jpg

Posted

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't mean to step on Filobedo's toes but I was working on a response while he posted. And dangit... I gots pitchers an everthin so, Ima postin. ( I was raised in Pennsylvania... please forgive if the dialect sometimes oozes out.)

[color:\\"red\\"] See attached in this and the next three posts. </div></div>

Sorry but, I think it's a big waste of time and money...

On a 5 minute job crazy.gif

Posted

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How hard is it to install this stering wheel? I need to replace mine but I got a 1988 and the center "R" is different.... </div></div>There are two different centers for 1988. This is the older version. The newer version is the sunburst like the hood ornament. I'm not sure when they changed.

Posted

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I guess you don't mind stepping on toes. </div></div>

Look, I Hate eBay too... My `88 Reatta was a recent Total Loss. The only part untouched was the Steering Wheel. I tried to sell it on the Board but, no one was interested. Im just trying to get back part of the $350 tow fee & give the bidders a simple, easy, & free way to remove & replace their Wheel. OK? confused.gif

Guest kennyw
Posted

I Don't hate ebay or the board for selling or buying, or the net for that matter. Where else can you find anything, that your heart desires? Place a bid and in a few days it arrives at your door-step. No running around looking and no fuel cost. Amizing: I have parts coming from Russia for one of my projects. Where else could you find them? No one is making you bid on ebay auctions. I would like to have the steering wheel for my old Reatta. If I had a low milage Reatta show winner and My steering wheel for some reason was damaged it would be a no brainer to purchase it. That said, how do you justify a $100 wheel on a high milage car that is a hard sell for any amount. No one is paying anything for Reatta's with high milage that also needs paint. I will keep the $3.00 cover on my damaged wheel. I say ease up on the guy. He had a total loss of a nice Reatta. ken

Posted

Careful! Stevie is a professional wrestler! He does'nt mind stepping on toes, or your head, for that matter! Actually, I think he'd step on whatever body part one leaves lying on the mat, in the ring!

You're BOTH right! The "proper" way is to use a puller, the "economy" way is to use a wood block and/or a hammer, same result either way-steering wheel gets removed!

The whole column comes out with a few screws and 5 bolts, takes only 10 minutes.

Anyone interested in a very nice blue column with wheel?

post-38921-143137894703_thumb.jpg

Posted

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I say ease up on the guy. He had a total loss of a nice Reatta. ken </div></div>

Thanks Ken smile.gif

"Lemme tellya somthin' Brother"...

It Was... "Very Nice" cool.gif

Won 1st Place on CarDomain.com

Steves ~Reatta~

Posted

I suppose I should have read your profile before posting. shocked.gif

In any event... I feel your pain regarding the loss of your Reatta. I too have recently had my 88 Reatta rear ended. Not a good feeling!

I hope that you get a fair and reasonable amount for your steering wheel. From the photos it looks pristine.

My "hate Ebay' stance has nothing to do with you or for most everyone on this board. It's more of a "life view" of things that inspire me to utter those words.

On another note. We've all heard the expression "There are a hundred ways to skin a cat." I'm more of a "by the book" kinda guy. If a manual or technical piece says to... do it like this, with this tool, in this order... then I'm inclined to do it that way.

In all fairness, I decided to to try the "hammer and knees method" of removing the steering wheel sans puller. It just so happened that I had been wanting to change out the lock cylinder with a new one. To do this the steering wheel has to be removed. I thought this would be a great time to try out this new method. So today, I proceeded as discribed in the post. I used an aged rawhide mallet as the recipient of the blows from a good sized ball-peen hammer. I hit it with as much force as I deemed nessesary to do the job without incurring any damage to the rest of the assembly. All I can say is that this method did not work for me. I beat on it, with force, several times and it was no go.

It may work for others but... as I've become accustomed to say:

"I can't get away with nothin."

Posted

You have to hit the "flush" Nut & Shaft "with" the 'Metal' Hammer. Tap-Tap-Tap

It's kind'a ape like but, the Nut saves the Threads...

Believe me, it Works tongue.gif

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