its a V-12 Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 I thought it would be interesting, to hear about what additives, if any, you use in your motors. I typically add "Mystery Oil" with every oil change in my '48 Lincoln V-12.It seems to hold down the smoke and quiet the engine or at least, I like to think it does. I remember a number of years ago when a "old time mechanic" saw me add STP to a 1937, 216 cu in chevy motor he said "If the factory wanted you to add that crap, they would have put it in when the built the motor". So folks what do you say, using any "snake oil" in those old motors??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K8096 Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 My dad used to add a quart of Rislone in his '41 Cadillac everytime he changed oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 I don't put in any additives, but I like to use 15-50 Mobil 1 Synthetic. You should NOT use synthetic if your engine has not been rebuilt using modern gasket and seal materials, according to a Mobil spokeswoman I spoke to several years ago. While those "slick" additives probably won't do any harm, I believe they don't help, either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Don't know about that Vertigo. I'm considering trying a snake oil product to "tighten up" my '56 Chevy "6". It doesn't smoke, but it uses a little oil now. Haven't a clue where it's going to???? I'd be interested in the answers on this thread.Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 The only thing I've ever poured out of a bottle that made a demonstrable and noticable difference immediately is B&M Trick Shift auto trans fluid. I don't care what naysayers belch out but when you own, drive and are familiar with a car you know.My 73 Z-28- drained sump and torque converter for a full change over. Just changing filter and pan is not a full change. The TH 400 tranny began shifting more firmly and the car was getting tire chirp as the gears changed up. It never shifted that tight ever, even when new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_jmarsicano Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Twitch- Your right on with the B&M, good stuff. I also use a few Lucas products for the same application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 I had bought a truck that had been sitting for a few years, and when I started it it smoked up the entire area. The junkyard next door even complained! I put in two bottles of a very thick "motor Honey into it and ran it for 3 hours at fast idle. It never stopped smoking. The next day I started it to bring it back to the dealer that I had bought it from and it blew out one puff of smoke and never smoked again, and I have had it for 15 years since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Roger, Were the bees mad? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />What the heck is motor honey?Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Motor Honey is a brand of oil treatment like "Gunk Motor Medic" There are a lot of brands. It is very useful if the motor has a slight kock to it. Gruranteed to make your motor run quietly. (at least until it throws a rod) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Most of the slop is a chemical agent that swells the rubber and cork seals. In trannys and engine, the chemical react with the rubber/cork and stops the leak.The oil viscosity agents hold up under higher temptures.The oil of today, is far better them in the 1950's, so it really is not needed.Mobile-1 is overkill on a engine that goes 1,200 miles a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxnard Montalvo Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 My cars always seem to run better when I empty a bottle of that high viscosity additive, JACK DANIELS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizzyDale Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Dear Oxnard,I FIGURED you for Dewars.diz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Tommy, that's the slop I'm looking for. I've been noticing a trail in my gravel driveway the last couple of weeks. I finally found the culprit was one of the Caprices has a leaky rear seal. Guess I'll try the "sloppy method", since I don't want to have to do the "engine thing"! So what if the engine blows, Chevy sells those high powered crate motors. Varoom! Varoom! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizzyDale Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Dear Wayne,SOMETIMES the pan bolts just need a little snugging.diz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Dizz, This is a "stream". I'll probably put it on the lift first anyway, but hey, a 345hp new engine sounds better, doesn't it?Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Cullen Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 I've owned several Brit Motorcycles and Brit Cars. Due to the wonderful experience, I can't even say the word "Lucas" in the presence of any of my collectible cars or bikes. Put something into the engine that says "Lucas" on the label...... I think not! I have too much respect for my old iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Do you know that if it's an engine blow by problem, or low compression, your poor old rope seal is trying hard to do it's job, but your sorry engine is putting to much pressure on it, and the oil cuts and runs?Any "glue" you pour down the crank case is just going to end up on the drive way next to the beer cans and beef jerky wrappers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Don't drink beer Tommy. The teeth can't handle jerky either. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />No, don't really know for sure. It'll take a trip to the "lift" to find out for sure. The Chevy has 89,000 on it, and used very little oil at this point, but now it is showing lower on the stick, so I'm sure it's leaking. I thought it was the trans first, but the level was ok. I just wanted options. I'm not real crazy about the small ports on the engine, smog pump, and other options that won't let it get out of its own way. It's paid for so a new engine is just an excuse, you know. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.Wayne.Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocketDude Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 It sounds like you're just looking for an excuse to buy the crate motor. I like the way you think. However, while your checking for that rear main seal leak, be sure and look at the oil pressure sending unit, located by the distributor on a small block Chevy. When the plastic gets old and hard, and they start leaking, it runs down the back of the block and looks just like a rear main leaking. Your secret is safe with us we won't say a word to your wife, go for the crate...!! I agree with Tommy on the additivies, the only thing they do is make money for the people that sell em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <span style="font-weight: bold">on the additivies, the only thing they do is make money for the people that sell em. </span> </div></div> Hey Dude, it probably is just a stopgap message at best. But, I know a lot of oldtimers and some youngesters that use these types of products for low milage usage vehicles, like maybe "antique cars". <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />WaynePS, The wife just went to the store and back in the car in question...no leaks before or after. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I'm thinking it didn't get the oil hot enough on the short trip. I'll investigate further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphicar BUYER Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've owned several Brit Motorcycles and Brit Cars. Due to the wonderful experience, I can't even say the word "Lucas" in the presence of any of my collectible cars or bikes. Put something into the engine that says "Lucas" on the label...... I think not! I have too much respect for my old iron. </div></div>Mike - My Amphicars have Lucas electrics too so of course there is the Lucas switch... The key to Lucas electrics is not ot let the smoke out. There is no such think as "electricity", everything runs on smoke. So I keep some extra just in case I get a "leak"... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Burgess Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 Coolll! Where can I buy that. Wait! Maybe I can't afford it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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