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Posted

I've been told Carter makes a rotary type 6 volt electric fuel pump with a built in regulator that lets you turn the pressure down to 1 or 2 psi - ideal for a car with updraft carburator. I can't seem to find anyone who has these. I even went to the Carter web sote with no luck. Any ideas?

Posted

All the adjustable ones I found only went down to 5-7.

I always used an in line regulator set at 0.

All 6 volts are getting hard to find, the last one I got I got at at Farm Store.(TSC)

At the current Parts Stores, if you don't know what it came on they have no clue how to find it. When you ask for an 6 colt electric fuel pump they reply What year? what Make?, what model? Does it have Air conditioning?

Guest De Soto Frank
Posted

"At the current Parts Stores, if you don't know what it came on they have no clue how to find it. When you ask for an 6 colt electric fuel pump they reply What year? what Make?, what model? Does it have Air conditioning? "

I recently went to an Auto-Zone (out of "convenience") for new plugs for a '61 Willys truck. I had a modern Autolite number (295). I asked the clerk for "six Autolite 295 spark plugs". He immediately went into his litany of questions: "For what vehicle, year, model, how many litres,etc."...

I suggested that "he really didn't want to go there", and asked if he couldn't just pull the plugs off the shelf?

He insisted on going through "the process", so I said (out loud): "Okay, you asked for it: Willys. 1961. model 6-226 4WD. 226 cid six. "

Finally a manager who had been kibitizing at a distance stepped-in... still trying to find a listing/application in the computer (silly man!)...

Ultimately, someone went to the shelf and looked, and they were out of stock. But, they did have six Autolite 295 plugs in single blister-packs as a small-engine plug (stainless-steel shell)...

Sorry to drag this thread off-topic... had to vent about the experience at the modern auto-parts store.

I've seen pics of a vane/slipper-type electric fuel pump in some 1960's Chilton's manuals, but I don't recall any details about who made them or what applications used them... frown.gif

Guest imported_49packard
Posted

Somebody advertises on regular basis in Hemmings 6v fuel pumps. If you need it I will look it up.

Posted

Can you have a pump putting out 5 pounds pressure & run that through a regulator set at 1 pound? You're saying that wont damage the pump at all? If that's the case I may just do that.

Guest De Soto Frank
Posted

If we're talking about the diaphragm type electric fuel pumps ( the "rattle" kind), I think they're set-up similar to the mechanical type, in the sense that there's a spring acting against the diaphragm, and it is the spring-pressure that "pushes" the fuel out of the pump and tow the carb. When the carb bowl is full and the float-valve closes, the pump will continue to operate until the pressure of the fuel being held back by the float needle is equal to the spring pressure on the diaphragm... then the diaphragm link to the pump-arm just "floats" and everything marks-time, until the carb needs more fuel again, the float opens, the fuel begins to flow, and the spring under the pump diaphragm again can push fuel up to the carb. In a sense, the old mechanical pumps were "pressure regulated", the regulation being determined by the "stregnth" of the spring.

I believe the same principle holds true for diaphragm-type electric pumps, although their design limit may be excessive for some carbs.

Years ago my Mom had a '74 VW camper that recieved an electric fuel pump upgrade; it was a squarish little thing that got fastened to the under body somewhere back under the car, and it was the noisiest damn thing when you first turned the key on (it was securely mounted, just had a noisy operation). As the pump built-up pressure, it would slow down it's pump cycle, then stop entirely, until the engine was started, and the engine started consuming fuel.

I would think that all diaphragm electrics would be designed so that they would not be damaged by the fuel-flow being stopped by the closed float needle (or a pressure regulator)... ?

If you're buying a newly-mfr'd pump, the mfr ought to be able to weigh-in on this.

AC used to make electric fuel pumps... are they atill available ?

Guest Fr Mike
Posted

AC makes (ACD# EP11; GM# 6414670) a horizonal mount, flow-through, 6V electric fuel pump that I have recently frame-mounted on my '36 Plymouth driver. The pump is compact, easily mounted, and quiet. I mounted an in-line fuel filter upstream of it, and a pressure regulator (for low pressures) on the downstream side. For pump & regulator, the cost came to a little over 100 bucks.

Guest imported_JPIndusi
Posted

Fr Mike:

Are you saying that I can order this AC pump from a GM parts counter tomorrow?

Thanks - Joe

Posted

Joe,

I have one install on my car. I just went to a local parts store and they were able to order it for me. This was 2-3 years ago. Here is a link to my post on same subject. Fuel Pump

Guest Snopack
Posted

Thank God for my small town NAPA store! Some of the counter guys are older then I am. They have almost everything or will try to get it. Anyway, Airtex fuel pump #E8011, it's round, in one end out the other, fairly quiet I can hear it if the engine is off. I think I paid about $60.00.

John

Guest Fr Mike
Posted

Got my AC from a local (not a chain) general auto parts store. Called one day & had it the next.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Just in case anyone is interested I have an electric fuel pump installed on my 36 dodge pickup. I have a switch under the dash that I turn on to just prime everything and after starting I just turn it off and let the origial fuel pump takeover. You can have both installed. It makes for faster starting especially if the vehicle sits for extended periods. You should have a switch or some other safety device to shut off the fuel in emergency anyway. The electric fuel pump I have has filter screen in the inlet hole on the pump. If your tank is dirty you may have some blockage there eventually so be aware of that also. If your mechanical pump diaphram fails ( I had one go bad) the electric pump will keep pumping if it is on and pump fuel out of the broken mechanical pump on top outside the engine. This is the second electric pump I have on also. The first one the rubber bellows inside got a leak. I found out after finding a new one that I could have just got parts for the old one from the manufacturer.

Guest imported_Julian
Posted

I have and use both on my 42 Oldsmobile.. works very well that way....Julian

Guest Fr Mike
Posted

Just a thought about your need. . .

With reference to my previous post, I had the Carter pump on my '31 Buick 8-57 for awhile while straightening out the fuel system, and since then have put it on my '36 Plymouth P2---after a lot of problems trying to get several mechanical fuel pumps to work right.

On the little 6 cyl. flathead, the Carter operates quietly and smoothly full-time (wired into the ignition switch) without a fuel regulator. Gas mileage averages 16-19 mpg.

The pump model I described in my post might work fine for you without need for a pump with a built-in regulator, if you can't find one. You could always add a separate regulator if you had to.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I may have a problem with the electric fuel pump on my 1939 LaSalle convertible coupe. Car was purchased 2 months ago. Last Friday I ran out of gas (gauge was off, so now I know). I added 2 gallons to get to the gas station and filled the tank. I drove home (14 miles) without a problem. Car sat all weekend. This morning, was driving the car to work and noticed that the ammeter gauge was far to the left (discharging) while driving at highway speeds, even though lights were off. I drove back home and checked it futher. Here is what I found:

Key off - ammeter sits in middle. Turn on parking lights with key off - ammeter shows only a slight discharge. Turn on head lights with key off - ammeter almost full discharge (far left on gauge). Both of these instances seem normal to me. Then I turned off lights and turned on key but did not start car - ammeter shows full discharge (far left) and electric fuel pump is running and KEEPS RUNNING. With key still in on position, but motor not yet started, I then turned the electric fuel pump OFF - the ammeter goes back towards the center, but not quite to center, showing a slight discharge, which seems normal to me.

What I do not understand is that prior to all of this I am almost certain that the electric fuel pump cycled on for only a few seconds and then shut off (however I did not take notice of the ammeter at that time). It now seems as if the electric fuel pump will not shut off and battery discharges and even when running, shows a full discharge on the ammeter. I am afraid to drive the car, although this morning drove part way to work (about 4 miles round trip and no problem, other than the ammeter showing a discharge the entire trip and lights were off. I did not observe any fuel leakage and car ran well.

Is it possible that running out of gas previously could have damaged the fuel pump? Shouldn't the fuel pump shut off after it fills up the carburetor? I do not know what type of electric fuel pump I have, but do know that it is round and mounted verticlaly about half-way between gas tank and motor and has an in-line fuel filter between tank and pump and it looks to be fairly new. (I will try to take a better look in the morning). The fuel line runs from the electric fuel pump up to the original fuel factory pump, which may or may not be operable, but gives the motor an original look.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Fred

Posted

You could disconnect the electrical connection to the fuel pump and start the car and see if that cures the discharge. There is enough gasoline in the carburetor to start and run the engine for maybe 30-60 seconds. If the discharge appears as soon as you turn the key on (without starting the car), then have a problem elsewhere. My brother's 40 LaSalle just suffered from a shorted-out ignition switch that caused the same problem. But that's not the only possible cause. By the way, these cars run well on the conventional mechanical fuel pump, which also supplies vacuum to the windshield wipers. Is the mechanical pump still there? Also, I am unaware of any electric pump that automatically turns itself on and off. Normally these things run all the time, or are manually switched on by use of a toggle switch. Such as when the car has been setting up, you might turn on the electric pump for a few seconds just to prime the mechanical pump and get fuel into the carburetor. This cuts down on grinding on the starter.

Guest strait8
Posted

The fuel pump does stop pumping [and drawing current] once the fuel pressure is up and the starts up as the pressure drops as fuel is used.

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