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kennyw

motor stalling out

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It doing it again. Stalling out. Ran for the last 6 months without a hitch. Now it stall almost everytime at low speed and always at the stop light. This is really bad going into a exit or entrance ramp to have the motor stop and loose power steering. I can't let the wife drive the car. Where do I look first???????? ken

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Hate to admit it... the Car Guys on NPR had one similar to this. Check the Torque Convertor Clutch (TCC). If it's not disengaging there is no slippage allowed in the drive train (like when you forget to push in the clutch in a stick shift) and it will litterally kill the engine at stop signs and whenever you slow down to a fairly slow speed. <P>------------------<BR>

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See another recent post about intermitant stalling and look at the same things. GM had a campain for the Buick 3.8L FWD 86-87 for stalling and safety concerns repairs with it. These engines used to have a lot of stalling problems but there were a great number of causes. The bottom line was poor quality of the sencers/ECM construction, wires rubbing against things, and connections.<P>Tom

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On this topic. It happened to me more than three times in the last two years. My Reatta is a 1989 model and has around 80 thousand miles on it.

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No guys, it is not the trans causing this problem. I am having this problem also when starting cold. If you don't feed gas it doesn't want to start. After you get it running and the rpm seems about normal and you start off it stops at the first [stop]. I haven't even made 15 mph at this point. Must be a sensor or something sticking. Thing is it did this for a month and fixed itself for the next 6 months.....need new answers...........

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Check to see if the idle is higher when cold then goes down. It should try to adjust the idle to keep it about the same when you switch from park to nutral and A/C on/off. If not you may have a IAC motor problem. <P>Is it in need of a complete tune-up? Fuel filter, plugs, wires, PCV valve, and air filter. <P>You need to check it for ECM codes.<P>A qualified tec should test the fuel pressure, charging voltage, TPS readings, IAC counts, block learn, O2 cross counts, O2 voltage, IAC valve, MAF sencer, crank sencer, coil packs, ECM, catalatic converter, loose conections, and vacuum leaks.<P>You can't expect anyone to give you one corect solution to a problem that can two dozen causes except by chance. <P>Tom

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TOM, I guess I should have bought a car instead of a 747. All of that has to be checked? I can remember when just turning one little screw did the trick.........

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Kenny, Did You get You EGR problem fixed? That dog can surelycause it to stall if it is hanging open at idle. Skip

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SKIP,<BR>I got a egr off of a 90 at the bone yard and istalled it. The passages looked o.k. but I didn't have the time to clean them. I just installed the unit.....No difference. Sometime after starting [with] the gas pedel it hunts for the correct rpm 650-750 and runs fine for a while. Then, stumble, stumble and stop. Then start it all over again and it is o.k. until the next time. Seems it is trying to do what it is supposed to do. Must be something sticking..........

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I wonder if the solenoid that controls the idle speed is messing up? Skip

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Working without a book. I took off the two parts that had wire going to them. The two at the front where the air tube connects from the air filter. One had a valve inside and one an electrical thingy. I cleaned both with carb cleaner and also the passages they went into. Cleaned the throttle plate also. Put it all back together and it started like it is supposed to without using the gas pedel. Haven't had time to road test it yet. The [TRUCK] also stoped running. All of this at the same time.

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Boy when it rains it poors doesnt it? Sounds like the part You took off was the Egr assembly. Bad part is, it could be a bunch of things. I know You went through the diagnostic program but have You trid it again to see if it has anything new in it? I will try and check when I get home tonight to see what it says about the controller for the egr. I am not sure if there is a relay or if it is directly controlled by the computor. I am a bit suspicious of it because of it ran better for a bit after You changed the old one. I'll do some more research and see if I can scare up some more info in the mean time maybe someone else will have some other ideas. Skip

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SKIP,no not the egr. I replaced that with the one from the bone yard with no inprovement. These [two] are in the housing for the throttle plate. The other thing in this housing looks like it would be the tps. You can watch it move when opening and closing the throttle plate. To get to this part the housing would have to come off. I didn't have the time. What I did seemed to have worked. I have to do a 30 mile trip and will see how it runssssssssssss...........

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kenny--<P>Ditto on Tom's post...particularly re the ICM or the Crank Sensor. My 91 had EXACTLY the same symptoms at 85K miles two months ago. If I had to do it all over again, I'd replace the Crank Sensor straight away...only $68. I say ONLY $68 since you may encounter some big bills for diagnosis.<BR>Hope this helps...let us know.<P>Dalton<P>PS--Search the forum and you'll find this kind of advice, which I consolidtated & printed out for my mechanic:<P>Okay guys here?s my problem: car stalls for no reason. Going along and the engine just dies. First thought it was bad gas?put in drygas and injector cleaner; did not solve problem. Might be related to heat?if I?m cruising on the highway it?s fine but I slow down on backroads and the engine just dies. Need to pull over and wait a bit (maybe it cools off), then it starts up again after a few cranks. Last time this happened though, it wouldn?t restart. Left me stranded on the side of the highway. Put in a brand new battery?it ran OK for about an hour then died the same way as before. So, I don?t think it is the battery. While it was running, I disconnected the battery & car still ran fine, so that tells me it?s not the alternator, right? Seems to be related to the ignition system. Any thoughts?<P><BR> First, start simple: check your plugs and wires. Then move onto looking at the ICM and the coil pack. Also could be clogged injector or fuel filter.<P> I have had the exact same problem---was a bad ICM. Once the car gets hot, it starts sputtering & eventually stalls. It also hesitates when I step on the gas at lights. The insulator that protects the electronics was all bubbled from the heat. When the sensor had a garden hose run over it to keep it cool, the problem vanished. Remove the coil pack and inspect the condition of the ICM it should be hard epoxy and all the same color. If not it could of over heated.<P> The ICM or Ignition Control Module is directly below coil pack at the top front of the engine, on the right side. The comment about checking the electronic potting material in the ICM is a good one. Just remove the six torx screws from the coil pack and lift it off the module. You cannot lift it very far as it is wired to the module but you will be able to see the top of the module. If it shows signs of overheating as described, get a new one. I've seen prices from $125.00-$200.00 depending on the source. <P> I have the same problem?does anyone have any tips/hints on changing out the ignition module? I removed the torx bolts and saw a number of small bubbles in the epoxy and it was gummy in places. I hope to keep the old coil pack. The service manual wasn't much help; only showed the removal of the three bolts connecting it to the engine. Unless I'm missing something, it seems pretty straightforward from there (just removing the wire connections and putting the new ICM and its wires under the old coil pack) Did I also read the new ones from NAPA were better? REPLY:---Yes it is quite simple, just note the wire connections. The gummy epoxy is very hard to clean up after. The NAPA unit is a little thicker and may hold up better to the high temps, time will tell. I have replaced 2 ICM's on my 90 Riviera & Reatta.<P> Check the wires?Problem spark plug wires will glow in the dark especially when a mist of water is sprayed on them. To locate the exact location of wire leakage: run a grounded wand (a long screwdriver attached to a grounded wire will do) along the spark plug wires. I still suspect your coil pack though. They are easy to check. Remove each wire, one at a time, from the coil tower with the ignition "OFF". Restart the engine with each removed wire. The coil pack produces a voltage so high that you will notice a distinctive spark jumping from the tower to the closest screw. No exceptions! No spark =bad coil. The ignition system, coil pack and module, do not set any codes when they go bad, they operate independantly from the ECM. Start with the basics, plugs and wires. Just pulling the plugs will tell you if there is a problem confined to a single cylinder. <P> I also had a similar problem, it would start and run fine until it warmed up, and then it would just die. Nearly killed me one day. After replacing the fuel pump, filter, ignition module and coil pack, it turned out to be the crank sensor. This definitely sounds like it could be a crank sensor. When it gets too hot and is cracked or worn it will disrupts the spark delivery. <BR>

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As previously stated, there are more than a dozen different scenarios that could be happening with your car.<P>My 88 had over 160K on the clock when I bought it, also stumbled and died, I noticed a slight miss when running. A quick diagnostic check revealed an intermittent crank sensor and replacing the sensor requires removal of the crank pulley. That code cleared up, but then the cam sensor started acting funny. We replaced it, followed by a sudden Map code, and yes, I replaced that too. All these sensors were suspicious, so we replaced the ECM, wandering if a ?faulty? computer could be causing the sensors to fail. <P>To test the theory we reinstalled the old sensors and drove the car around the block. It stumbled and died. We installed new sensors and the old ECM and drove the car around the block. It stumbled and died again. Agonizing? You can?t imagine.<P>Since the car had over 160K on it, I replaced all the aforementioned sensors; the ECM and I put new plugs and wires on the car (they were a bit worn, but not worn out). The car has run spectacularly since. I did have an acdelco plug wire crap out last week, and posted that previously.<P>Will my solutions fix your problem? I don?t know. We used a computer to diagnose and trouble shoot each sensor; we looked at the voltage, resistance and signal shape. Trying to understand drivability issues without even a factory manual can be hair pulling at the least. <P>I have a bud who?s ASE certified and I gave him enough beer to push him over the abyss into alcoholism. We were frustrated and we spent a lot of time swearing, laughing, testing and replacing. <BR>

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well after all the replaceing that you did you could have bought another reatta. Can you even imagin having to pay someone for the work that you did to your car? Good to have a friend like yours. Keep the beer cold for him. I guess if what I did works I am lucky. Just cleaning a few parts. Right now it seems to be o.k. Seems your problem was different than mine. Your car missed and stoped while driving. My car ran like a pussy cat as long as you had your foot on the gas at any speed. Reatta just turned 158,000 miles....<BR> Oh, the truck, turned out to be a coolent sencer open circut. Computer couldn't go into closed loop so it stayed in limp mode. This gave to much gas and the plugs finally fouled. Replaced the temp sencer and plugs and am back on the road with the truck. If you have a reatta you also need a backup....but this time the backup needed a backup..........

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Now have driven 50-+ miles and everything is fine. Seems cleaning the few parts with carb cleaner worked.................

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