53 Buick -Need to flush the fuel lines, best way?

[Guest TheDude]

Hi,

I haven't accomplished much with any of the cars this winter. I've been pretty busy. Between work and school, I'm putting in over forty hours a week, plus homework, and everything else that life throws at you. Also, the lack of money and a cold garage don't make me too eager to get things done. I'm very anxious for Spring. Yesterday, however, I did go into the garage and pull back the sheets and covers and sat in the Buick for a few minutes, dreaming. I opened the hood and made an updated list of what needs to be done. The major items are to rebuild the carburetor and the fuel pump. I've never done either of those before so this is new to me. I also need to flush the fuel lines and I was curious as to the best way to do this. What can I used to flush the lines, and how can I assure I empty the lines completely when I am done? I'm also thinking about a new gas tank. I'm somewhat wary of reinstalling the original tank. The car doesn't have any rust issues but I'd feel better with a new tank. Where can I get a new gas tank for my 1953 Buick? I would also like to test the generator. How should I do this? I'm totally new to Buicks and pre 1965 automotive technology, but I'm ready to learn!

Thanks,

Justin

P.S. Once the weather warms up, the Buick is getting the clay bar treatment and a coat of wax!

[RocketDude]

As far as replacing the fuel tank, no need to unless it's damaged beyond repair. Check the phone book for a radiator shop who works on fuel tanks. I had mine boiled out and coated with a special tank coating to prevent any further rust. You can also clean and coat it yourself. There are lots written in this site about that very thing. Where I live, that wasn't an option. The cost will vary depending on your area and how hungry the shop is. I paid $90. for the whole process in So Calif.

My tank still had a couple of gallons of 30 year old varnish in it. I drained that out, and it took weeks for the rotten gas stink to leave the garage. My wife is talking to me again, finally!

When I dropped the tank, I just blew compressed air through the line to get rid of the old fuel. Put a container at the fuel pump end to catch the fuel, or whatever is in the line. I've had no problems since.

The fuel pump is pretty simple to rebuild. Follow the direction with the kit. Depending on the carb you have, study all you can on it, and go very slowly. The two barrel is pretty basic and simple. the four barrel has lots more parts to keep track of.

If you don't have the equipment or knowledge to test your generator, most Auto parts stores can do it for you. Or look for an honest rebuilder to test it for you, preferably while you watch. Take it off and go for a ride..!

Good luck......

[JohnD1956]

I'd let an expert rebuild the carb. It's more than just taking it apart and putting it back together. Plus it will need to be soaked to ensure all the passages are clean. If you can, I'd suggest asking if you can watch while it's done, so as to get familiar with the guts of the thing, and how it's done. then you'll be much comfortable with doing it next time. If you want a recommendation I can give you one, this fellow did my 56 and both 69's and I was able to set the 69's on the engine and not have to readjust the carb when done.

As to the fuel lines, I agree, Disconnect at both ends and blow compressed air through. That will be sufficient, there is no where for trash to hide in there.

As to the fuel pump, is it a dual action pump on the 53? The dual action pump has a line to the carb on one end of the pump, and a line to the intake manifold and windshield wiper motor from the other. If so once again I recommend just getting a rebuilt one. These require a special procedures to assemble. If memory serves me right, you have to have a special tool to deflect the wiper motor side while installing the gas pump side. If it's not dual action then the rebuild is pretty much a simple take apart, clean and reassemble.

As to the gas tank, if you really do not trust yours, I would recommend the gas tank renu process. I did my 56 that way and it wasn't really cheap, unless you consider the cost of having a custom tank made. In this process the vendor boils out the tank, checks for leaks and holes, cuts the top of the tank open to ensure interior rust removal in entirety. For me they fixed two large dents ( don't even ask how I managed that )in the process . They can also patch up any leaks present. Then the tank is welded back together, coated inside and out and baked in a process similar to a plastic-coat job. My tank looked new in the end, and the metal is encassed for future protection. Since tanks are not so easy to come by, plus a new one today will not be made of the same guage metal, I felt this process was superior to a new tank. Of course only time will tell if I did the right thing, but it's holding up for over two years right now.

Good luck

JD

[Guest TheDude]

Thanks for the replies. I'll have to call around to see who can take care of the gas tank for a decent price. I'll lose the original undercoating on the gas tank but I guess I can handle that.

[JohnD1956]

The gas tank renu process came in two finishes. A silver color that replicated a new tank uncoated, and a black finish that was wrinkled like the undercoating. I had mine done with the undercoating since my car is also undercoated. Looks like it was never out of the car.

JD

[critterpainter]

As long as you are cleaning the fuel line remember to check the flex line near the fuel pump. After 50+ years they are usually rock-hard and either leaking fuel or air. take it off, cut the bands on each end that hold the braded wire on (just grind or cut deep enough to slice the outer band not the fitting as there is a barbed fitting below that you don't want to damage) and you will find a rubber flex line underneath. You an buy new fuel flex hose anywhere and secure it with a couple of hose clamps.

Bill