Advice before I paint?

[Guest BAABUICK]

I've decided to bite the bullet & repaint 'ol red. As this will not be a tape job but a full teardown, can anyone offer advice as to what surprises I may be in for? (The body is in perfect condition, just chipped & faded original paint)

I am already debating on whether to remove the rear glass or not. My glass guy is scared he may either break the glass or destroy the rubber seal in the process.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

[Guest EDBSO]

What is your budget? $8,000 to $12,000?

[Guest maybe2fast]

is that seal available to buy a replacement

[Guest Jim Piro]

I have an 89 which I bought new and had the repaint between 89 and 90. Yea, it took that long but the results were astronomical and costly.

You may need to replace the black bumper strips, bumpers(?), grill, plastic above the bumpers and any other plastic that is broken, dendted or beyond repair, have the wheels redone (Have done this twice and am a half a---- expert on this, wheel caps etc.

The bottom line is "HOW MUCH MONEY DO YO HAVE AND WANT TO PART WITH" and what parts are still available.

I DID NOT TAKE OFF THE FRONT OR REAR GLASS BUT DID REPLACE THE WINDSHIELD BECAUSE OF SAND BLASTING. (FORMALLY A SNOW BELT CAR-YOU MAY FIND SOME DAMAGED RUSTY METAL UNDER THE CAR-NOT FRAME).

If I can give you further info, please send me an e-mail.

Best of luck!!

[luftweg]

I have an '89 red/tan.

I don't really like the side moulding color (black), and prefer the look of all the Reattae that have matching moulding and body panels....

I was wondering if anyone out there had just the mouldings repainted to match the rest of the car in this way? (I think there is someone who did this but also had the bumpers painted too -- I don't think I want to paint the bumpers though... just the mouldings).

How much would this cost?

[tinknocker88]

wow, i don't even know where to start, i do this every day on united airlines ground equipment here in bos. are you going to paint in your garage? long term project? i try to remove as much trim,door handles ect. if it's a complete paint job. if windows on the reattas are glued in it'll tough to remove without breaking. if possible i'd try to remove the trim a let the glass alone. other than that start sanding and be ready with some prime'n fill, then more sanding. we use a dupont materials, if i can help with part nos. let me know

[Guest BAABUICK]

Sorry for not responding sooner guys, I went icefishing yesterday & all I caught was a cold & a hangover.

To answer all of your questions:

EDBSO, It costs what it costs.

maybe2fast, I am wondering the same thing. If the rear window seal is out there, my glass guy will find it. I will keep you posted.

Jim Piro, thanks for your comments. I anticipate 2 weeks from start to finish. Unless we break something while dismantling the car, replacement parts are not an issue. Yep, the wheels are going to be done at the same time (approx. $100.00 US/each, machined & recoated). You touched on my main concern - are there areas consistent amongst Reattas that attract rust under the body panels?

Luftweg, Sorry, not a clue as to what painting the trim will cost. If you were to remove it yourself & bring it to your local bodyshop, I would guess around $150-200.00 US.

Tinknocker88, I am using a small local paint shop (2 guys, 1 bay, 1 booth). I have used these guys for years with absolutely amazing results using DuPont's Chroma line . We are scheduled to start at the beginning of April & will have her done in a couple of weeks. It seems the removal & re-install of the rear glass is the last hurdle before painting.

I will post more info. as this project goes along.

[Roadster90]

You do not have to remove the front or rear glass...there is a special (and expensive...20.00 a roll) tape to facilate leaving the glass in and getting paint under the weatherstrip. I just did a driver restoration on my coupe, and the tape works wonderful....check with your Dupont jobber.

Nic

[manikmekanik]

Great call, on the special tape, Nic!!

Maybe2fast, the window seals are NOT available, if removed, the seals MUST be preserved. I recently had both front & rear glass swapped between 2 cars, My glassman could NOT locate any seals, nor new glass for Reattae.

ALL plastic body parts to be painted MUST be removed, due to the nature of the special paint additives (and process) used for the plastic parts. This applies to the rub strips, beltline, front fenders, front upper/lower valance, rear upper/lower valance, Mirrors, R&L outer kick panel, and on convertibles the tonneau cover. For a total re-paint to come out worthy of the cost.

[Guest Ranger]

Randy,

I'm painting my '90 vert. this spring and I guess I don't understand about the plastic parts. Why do they have to be removed? Is the the toneau cover plastic or fiberglass, or is plastic and fiberglass the same thing?

Thanks,

Jim

[manikmekanik]

The process for painting the plastic parts is different than that for the steel panels. Nic can attest to this, he just had a Reatta painted, and his photos show the car mostly disassembled during process.

The tonneau cover is best painted/prepped separately, because the edges are buried by the seal between it and the body panels. I imagine it could be done while installed, but the evidence of such would be painfully obvious when tonneau is opened, and may show when closed, near gasket mating joint(s).

The convertibles do'nt have much surface area to paint, as coupes or other cars would, but the process makes them take just as long as painting an entire minivan.

Since paint work is priced on the level of difficulty, and man-hours, rather than on amount of paint used, the cost is'nt any lower than painting a larger vehicle, and in many cases, is greater, due to the level of detail/labor involved, and the special paint additives and processes needed for flexible panels/rub strips/beltlines.