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Harmonic Balancer/Pulley


BiggD

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I am getting a rattle under my hood of my '88 Reatta at idle. When I give my 88 some gas, the rattle goes away. From reading previous post, it sounds like it could be the harmonic balancer/pulley.

A local dealer quoted me a price of $250 for a new one (he claimed it was a special order), and about $200 in labor to put it on. Does this sound about right? Please advise

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> A local dealer quoted me a price of $250 for a new one (he claimed it was a special order), and about $200 in labor to put it on. Does this sound about right? Please advise </div></div>

Sounds like SOMEONE,(at the dealership), needs to make another boat payment!!

These parts are readily available thru NAPA, Auto Zone and Advance parts stores for LESS THAN HALF the price you were quoted.

Replacement is not too difficult, loosen the bolt, slip it off, replace.

Here's what to look for to verify this is your problem-see attachment.

post-38921-143137889131_thumb.jpg

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If these things ever get in short supply, I found a place in Shasta CA, called Damper Doctors, who only rebuilds harmonic balancers. He was reasonable, and turnaround was about 2 weeks. These are not available for the Triumph TR-6 any longer, and most parts are, so we may need him eventually. I believe he shows up on a Switchboard.com search.

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Guest EDBSO

From Autopartsgiant.com

DORMAN 594-001 HARMONIC BALANCER 82.05

For your 1988 Buick Reatta. I did mine on the driveway at a 4th of July party. Do a search and you will find directions on the forum.

Simply put a wrench on the nut, block the serpentine belt from turning and remove nut and balancer.

Could your mechanic have a mistress or a big boat??

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Guest F14CRAZY

You may find a '48 pipe wrench handy to hold the old balancer. It may take a lot of physical violence to break the bolt free.

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If you raise the car, then remove the right front wheel/tire, there is an access hole in the unibody which allows for use of an impact wrench w/extension.

Job can take as little as 15 minutes, as edbso said, in the driveway!!

Yeah, the mechanic probably has both a mistress and a boat payment, and they're both DUE!!!

Boy, I'm getting a lot of mileage from that "bad balancer" photo!!

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This morning I took my '88 to 2 seperate mechanincs, and here is what I was told:

First Mechanic - It does not sound like the harmonic balancer. It sounds like the chain in the transmission ($1100 to fix). That doesn't make sense because when the car is making the noise in the garage (in park), it still makes the noise and stops when I give it gas. He charged me nothing.

Second Mechanic - Heard the noise and the area in which it came from. Was unable to isolate the noise, but said the harmonic balance looked fine. He said it may be the timing chain because the car does have over 120,000 miles on it. He charged me nothing and said it was okay to drive the car without causing any major damage.

Does anyone know a reliable mechanic in the Houston, TX area who is familiar with Reattas and the problems that go along with them.

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Use a small mirror to enhance visibility, and look at the balancer/crank pulley.

If it looks like the attached photo, that's your problem. If not, it could be a failing A/C clutch or compressor. If there's any anti-freeze under the car, it could be a water pump.

The A/C, water pump, belt and balancer can make a similar sound, when failing.

Timing chain is possible, but usually does'nt wear out before the balancer does.

Sorry I can't direct you to a good shop in Houston, as I'm in Wisconsin.

Barney's in Texas, and may know of a good wrench in Texas.

Attached photo shows 2 balancers, BOTH are bad. Look for cracking around edge of face, where steel meets rubber.

post-38921-143137889146_thumb.jpg

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Transmission chain is on driver's side of car, timing chain is on passenger, mechanic should be able to tell that.

Timing chain will continue to rattle as revs increase. Bad harmonic balance probably won't.

Easy test - remove the serpentine belt. Timing chain rattle probably will not change but a problem in the accessory drive will (running for even a minute from cold shouldn't hurt anything).

Note: 89-90 "C" engine had an improved timing chain idler and tentioner mechanism - if replacing I would upgrade to the newer design.

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Guest Greg Ross

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Yeah, the mechanic probably has both a mistress and a boat payment, and they're both DUE!!!

</div></div>

"manikmekanik"

Maybe one's due and the other's late!

Seriously though...

My recollection from when my Timing chain went(at about 120k) was that you heard the rattle at idle but at no other time. I think at the lower rev the slack can flop around and contact the cover. Also recollect that it was difficult to isolate without a listening tube.

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