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Posted

Hi Guys,

I'm still working on my "basket case" 1935 Super 8... I started it today and it starts and runs smooth as silk. The problem is that I can't seem to get the carb to stop overflowing. I took the top off before I started it, and the damn needle valve was in backwards, so I thought surely that was the problem. No such luck!

Do any of you know a good rebuilder who I could have rebuild the thing again? I had it rebuilt locally, but the fellow who did it is just an old mechanic and had no experience on that specific carb. I can't believe that as well as it runs that it can have very much wrong with it...

While I'm at it, maybe I should send the fuel pump and see if it's putting out too much pressure... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Myron

Guest imported_Speedster
Posted

If you are using the stock fuel-pump, with no modifications, then I would suspect the float and valve of having a problem or not adjusted correctly. Does it have an original type float and needle-valve. If the valve was in backwards, sounds like who ever put it together had a few too many shots of the ol' Moonshine, to get up the nerve to tackle that one. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I do my own carb overhauls, so can't help with someone you could send it to, Sorry. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Posted

Myron, I doubt the fuel pump would be putting out too much pressure. Usually as they age they don't put out enough. You can check this very easily with a cheap vacuum/fuel pressure guage available at almost any car parts store. The pressure should be about 4lbs. if I am not mistaken. They come with instructions so you should be able to figure it out. If someone was messing inside the carb they might have adjusted the float level incorrectly. I can send you the float level specs if you you want and you can make a simple guage ( a drill bit is usually all you need) that should get it adjusted close enough to work. Good luck <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Expensive! 750 for the pair last year. I did check with several others (including local talent) and some prices were lower, but I liked the answers to questions the serv mgr gave and the fact he actually knew a Packard with Rochesters wasn't built by GM.

Posted

I used a few, but the last and best rebuilder I've found is Larry Isgro who lives about 25 miles from me on Long Island, N.Y. He charges around $200 a carb [not included shipping] but they look like new and perform with minimal adjustments. He showed me in his back yard an oversize garage that was [color:"red"] TOTALLY [color:"black"] filled with carbs- floor to roof! Some carbs about 100 years old. He advertises in AACA's mag, in the back. Hope this helps!!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

.................Steve

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have very good experience with Daytona Parts Company, New Smyrna Beach, Florida. They have rebuilt dozens of Packard carburetors for me of every conceivable type, invariably with excellent functional and cosmetic results.

Threepack

  • 7 years later...
Posted

A little after the fact but I take all my carbs to Ace Fuel (now Ace Automotive, I believe) in Santa Clara, California. They have carb testing equipment that can draw down a vacuum to test for leaks and they seem to have just about every gasket imaginable. Tell them I sent you and they may even charge you more!

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