F14CRAZY

Supercharging (this time, it's real)

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At warm idle in park:

BLM: 113

INT: 124-130

When I go out again, probably tomorrow, I'll get some BLM and INT numbers on the road. Anything else, like knock?

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Philip, have you tried forcing the idle lower by closing the IAC manually through the overides? You should be able to get the idle down around 500 rpm which is the base setting of the throttle blade. This was a matched setup you installed except for the external pvc setup and it may be drawing a bit more air than the built in, or at least in a different path. You may need to close the throttle blade slightly from the stock setting, although it sounds like this is coming around through learning the new parameters. It's really good to hear this is taking shape now.

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Didn't think of that. I'll try the override. We are idling at 900 or less rpm now, so we're pretty close to being right. Is the IAC count re-burnable in the memcal?

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Yes, get some knock counts and spark retard degrees if available. Don't forget some WOT O2 readings as well.

As far as the idle is concerned, I am sitting here looking at the programming software I am using and I don't see anything defined that governs IAC position. What are the lowest IAC position counts you are seeing on the data stream? What is the desired idle?

-ryan

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IAC is a calculated position - have to devive from users of the idle table. Ryan: CD will be in mail tomorrow and we can compare notes.

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Seems I forgot again to bring paper with me, but floored at around 80 mph, we're looking at 88-90 on the oxygen. Is that good?

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Not too bad, although a little low (lean) for a force fed engine. It is hard to get an instant reading, you have to stay in it for a while and see what it does. Does it hold relatively steady or gradually move in a direction, up or down, over time as the rpm's increase? Watch out for knock. The hard part is the delay in the readout. The data stream causes all readings to be slightly delayed from real time plus it is not a wideband O2 sensor so accuracy isn't terribly good outside of the stoich. point. If anything, you will want to stay a little rich. It doesn't produce the maximum power, but is safer. I'm sure others will chime in and my guess is Ryan will want to richen it a bit. How does it pull? I almost forgot, be careful. You may want to try a test run watching for knock counts and then try again watching for other parameters. Let the engine cool a little between runs as force feeding really adds heat and it is sort of additive if it isn't allowed to stabilize back to the same starting condition.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Seems I forgot again to bring paper with me </div></div>

Sounds to me like a great excuse to turn around and go for another run!

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Paper?

I thought you had a PC installed! Use it to your advantage, keep your tuning data on the Auto-pc, for qwik reference, Phil.

By adding a wireless connection, you and Ryan could tune it in "near" real-time, remotely!

post-38921-143137886956_thumb.jpg

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Thought about it but I don't have my keyboard yet tongue.gif

But yo, that would be crazy! With a better data plan I could use my Treo to connect to Verizon and get an internet connection, then with "virtual desktop" give Ryan command of my Car-Puter, with an ECM interface/serial/USB interface...

Oh my, I have to look into that

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I think I figured out my high idle. I first got thinking that maybe my PCV system was letting in too much air through the vacuum tree. I considered buying another PCV valve to run in series behind the one I have, but waited till I got home to check it out. With it idling I pulled the line and put a finger over it...no real change.

I then looked everything over and found that my cruise control cable had a tiny bit of tension on the butterfly. Pulled up on the linkages and the idle went down considerably, to around 600-700 rpm I'd say. Hmmm...When I put it together I did find it to be not long enough (when more throttle is applied, the cable is actually shortened) so I dremel-ed out the hole a little bit, which helped and I thought it was fine, but I guess not.

Temporarily, I'll keep the cruise cable off. I've got the hood open outside, and when it cools down, I'm going to re-adjust was TPS for this change (I did set it at 0.38 but now at 0.30). The screws are a bit too close to the exhaust for my preference, so I'll give it some time and report back in a few hours and see if the idle died down. I'm sure this will make a difference. Idle is sometimes at like 900 but was around 1300 today. It idles steady, but just at different speeds at different times tongue.gif

I've exchanged email with Ryan...he's going to check his schedule, and if it's good, he'll let me come down on Saturday for fine tuning cool.gif

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Good news. I reset the TPS and went for a spin to get the system up to temperature again. Idle's down to around 750 rpm grin.gif. Now, since I don't have to idle in gear at like 1300 rpm, I don't have to feel those downshifts when coming to stop

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And remind me to get a quick little movie clip of it, so nobody can claim that it's like a conspiracy theory (like us not landing on the moon tongue.gif)

You know the L67's little black plastic boost control solenoid thing? Do I need that? Usually sits above the rear valve cover. I don't know exactly what it does, but since i don't have any ECM provisions to connect it, does it need to be used?

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That boost control thingie is what we tried to adapt the TCC circuit to.

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Ah, with Greg's car? I read of that being mentioned. If I'm right, the current boost control uses just vacuum. How does the solenoid thing work in?

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ah, with Greg's car? I read of that being mentioned. If I'm right, the current boost control uses just vacuum. How does the solenoid thing work in? </div></div>

You don't really need the boost control solenoid on these engines. All it does is disable boost in reverse and when you are nearing the preset top speed limiter as well as on heavy decel. Basically it serves no practical function for us HP guys. Now the vacuum operated bypass actuator is something you do need to leave hooked up. This device opens the bypass valve during low-load conditions to relieve drag/stress on the SC. It automatically closes when you open the throttle enough to warrant a power increase.

F14crazy- you have mail.

-ryan

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Thanks Ryan. I read at the Bonneville club of the vacuum controller being disconnected and pulling like 17 psi shocked.gif. Nothing I'd ever do though.

This afternoon I have an appointment at Geldhof tire in Charlotte for a front and rear alignment. They quoted me like $90.

Forgot to say, but yesterday, I ordered some stuff for my fuel rail lines. They had nylon repair kits to connect to the fuel rail (the '92+ GM quick disconnect) in stock (went to NAPA for this). Had to order some special couplers though...one end will compress onto my metal lines that used to go to the LN3 fuel rail. They connect to the nylon with what looks like both compression and barbs, which will be good, or at least, a lot better than my rubber hose and clamps at the moment, which isn't the safest long term solution.

I've still got that myterious tranny leak. When off, or idling, and even in drive on stands, it doesn't drip. It's leaking a little bit but not a significant amount. It is burning though and getting on the bottom of the passenger side. Some even makes it back to the cat and burns. My dad and I looked under it and couldn't figure out where it's leaking.

Would like to install a larger tranny cooler soon, and might as well pull the pan, change filter, and redo with Mobil 1 ATF. It was mentioned before...is there an engine oil cooler kit?

Tuning is needed, which will be done soon, but the Reatta's really doing fine. Idle is around 700 rpm now. Temperature gets to 180 and doesn't really go over, with Ryan's fan programming and my 180 thermostat. When you get it at the right throttle, it'll pull pretty well and you can tell it's not a plain LN3 under the hood.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> It is burning though and getting on the bottom of the passenger side. Some even makes it back to the cat and burns. My dad and I looked under it and couldn't figure out where it's leaking.

Would like to install a larger tranny cooler soon, and might as well pull the pan, change filter, and redo with Mobil 1 ATF. It was mentioned before...is there an engine oil cooler kit?

</div></div> I would expect the transmission to leak on the driver's side and oil to leak on the passenger's side.

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Didn't get to drop by NAPA but will tomorrow. And will setup my fuel lines before I see Ryan on Saturday. Did get my alignment done today though...front and rear for $70, which seems good to me. Was weird to see the technician drive away in my car. I don't think I've ever seen my car move without being in it.

Communicating with Ryan so I can visit him on Saturday and get the tuning done.

Tomorrow I'm going in to take the 1st half of the CompTIA A+ (PC servicing, repair, etc) certification exam grin.gif. So I can soon get hired! And pay for my 92-93 octane gas. For 10 cents more, the Sunoco on Logan has 94 octane shocked.gif

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Ryan. I read at the Bonneville club of the vacuum controller being disconnected and pulling like 17 psi shocked.gif. Nothing I'd ever do though.

</div></div>

I don't know what those guys over on the bonneville forums are doing or using but the bypass actuator DOES NOT regulate boost on these engines. This type of supercharger is a fixed displacement or linear output supercharger which means it will only put out a fixed amount of airflow/boost per RPM. The only way you are going to get more boost is by installing a smaller SC pulley, but even then the boost level should stay pretty consistant throughout the RPM range.

Like I said before, all that bypass actuator does is unload the SC when the engine doesn't need it. It also has a provision to open the actuator to prevent boost during reverse, top speed limit, and decel (via the boost control solenoid). That's it. At least from the factory standpoint. I suppose someone could hack the PCM to make it control the boost solenoid in such a way to actually control boost level. But the only thing that can do is reduce boost from what you normally have; it can't increase it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I've still got that myterious tranny leak. When off, or idling, and even in drive on stands, it doesn't drip. It's leaking a little bit but not a significant amount. It is burning though and getting on the bottom of the passenger side. Some even makes it back to the cat and burns. My dad and I looked under it and couldn't figure out where it's leaking. </div></div>

The only thing in the rear of the trans is the dipstick tube seal and pan gasket. On the right side all that is there is the axle seal, pan gasket, and governor/VSS sensor housing seals.

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The admin had to close that thread tongue.gif

Thank you for enlightening on my seals.

Ryan: could you send me an email or PM with your address for directions and last resort phone number?

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Just got back from Ryan's. He's a genius at what he does. No hesitation at all at any speed. It's doing good cool.gif. He was pretty cool to meet after all the help he's given. My little brother's using the card reader but I've got some cool pix that I'll post later.

You could say that the project's complete, and yes, it was a success. It's real.

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