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Cost to paint


Guest wally888
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To do a repaint correctly, the rubbery bumper facias, both front and rear should be removed for they need to be painted using a flexible paint additive. Then it's easy to remove the aluminum bumper bars, the rear tail light assembly and front parking light assemblies.<P><BR>This comprises the larger easy to remove components. To go a step furthur, it's not too difficult to remove the reveal moldings from the doors as well all six side moldings. And the lower rocker moldings unscrew easily.<P>By removing these parts, the area under will be repainted and much less masking will be required, resulting in a better job.<P>Removing the glass can be done but is probably not cost effective and is asking for breakage and leaks.<P>Any car I paint I remove door handles and door locks, but it is very difficult to get to these in Reatta doors.<P>A good base coat/clear coat paint job on a Reatta can easily cost $4000 and will never be as good as a factory paint job, where everything is off the body.<P>That's why purist pay the $10K and buy a low mileage well cared for, garaged, California car when they want the best. (Bet this should start some interesting discussions).<P>But that's another story.

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Hi Ron -<BR>I'm not sure where your estimate in the Phoenix area was from but ... I had body/paint work done on mine at 2 dealerships in the 3 years I lived there (only moved to NH this past August).<P>Anyhow - you're best to avoid Tony Coury Buick in Mesa, as they just did a down-right messy job (and still couldn't get it right after 4 tries). Luckily, the car was being painted due to a claim thru Nationwide Insurance's Blue-Ribbon program (which offers a lifetime warranty), so, when the paint on the front bumper started cracking in under 6 months, I had to hunt for another shop. I ended up at the body shop at Childress Buick/Kia on Camelback Road. I would highly recommend these guys. They stand by their work & the shop managers are really great to work with. I believe the guy's name was Bruce that I talked to (tell him I said hello).<P>Anyhow, the point is - I don't know where you went, but go get a 2nd opinion from these guys. If you have any questions about anything involved, they'll gladly explain.<P>AnNyhow, I ended up there, as I had previously had VERY good luck with the mechanical dept & had high hopes for the body shop. But, like I said, they did an excellant job.<P>~Brenda<P>------------------<BR>REATTA SITE:<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/gohighr/reatta.html" TARGET=_blank><BR>http://members.aol.com/gohighr/reatta.html</A>

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I don't know about the price but it sounds like they want to do a quality job. Shops that do a quick job will tape over everything instead of removing the parts. When the work is done the tape lines will show. A few factory unpainted parts might have fresh paint around the edges while near these parts the fresh paint might not be close enough. You may also get a slight overspray on moldings, taillights, etc.. You may not see the spray but it will be ruff feeling. For a daily driver and a cheep job this may be acceptiable to some. <P>All you can do is get a few more prices but be sure to let them all know what kind of quality you want. If you are paying extra for parts removal ask to see the car while it is in the middle of the process to make sure your getting your moneys worth.<P>Tom

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Guest Greg Ross

I've begun pricing a re-paint and here are the recommendations from a close friend who has worked in the Automotive body business for 25 years. <BR>My '88 is showing minor blistering from beneath the rear window rubber-mandatory recommendation No.1 "Take the Glass out-have the Body shop arrange this or set it up yourself with a reputable Glass Shop.<BR>Rear wheel wells along the flanged lip are now bare in places. No. 2 "Have these areas sand blasted and a full sequence primer system applied.<BR>As above; where readily removeable components are concerned No. 3 "Take em off, no masking lines after painting, no overspray on said components, corners and crevices can be properly sanded and preped prior to painting and you will be much more satisfied with the finish. If you are mechanically inclined, do that work yourself.<BR>On the matter of price, I've had two shops give me prices including all of the above, these shops BTW are the area shops that do the high end of the spectrum-Porche, Mercedes, etc. etc. $2600. Canadian, converted for the benifit of my acquaintences South of the Border that amounts to approx. 1700 US $. Both shops indicated about 45 manhours, included color coat/ clear coat, drying booth and all sundry supplies. Their labor rate runs I believe at approx. $45./ hr. Sounds to me as if the shop pricing your paint work is charging a very excessive labor rate!

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I've been given a $4000 cost to paint a 1990<BR>burgundy Reatta in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area...reason given for the seemingly high cost is the need to take the entire car apart; meaning windows out, bumpers off, etc...is this right???...any recommendations for excellent car painters in AZ???

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WOW! I gotta go to Canada! Sounds like a good deal, but I've never seen that here. By your figures, $45/hr Canadian is $30/hr US, which is $1350, leaving $350 US for materials. I'm not a body tech, but I work with some very good ones, and they tell me that on any car for a really good job to expect $500-1000 for materials, and that's our cost! Bruce just got done painting a 69 chevelle(silver w/black racing stripe) and was handed almost 1000 for just tape and spray, and wet sand. It's all about "you get what you pay for", but the Canada deal does sound good.

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bigrog:<BR><B>but the Canada deal does sound good.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>Yeah, but would you feel good taking advantage of those sweatshop workers in a third world country?

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