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Asking Price for 90 Reatta?


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Any ideas what my asking price should be for a 90 Reatta? It has 175,000 miles on odometer but engine (I have paperwork) was rebuilt (under original waranty) and replaced with a motor that had 40,000 less miles on it. I don't know if that is marketable. The car is white with gray interior. Small dent on front of hood (down near bumber end). Car was mostly in Arizona so rust spots just showed up around top of windshield this past year (after move to KS). Any suggestions on price and methods to sale would be good. I have really loved this car and it has been the best car I've ever owned (as evidenced by the mileage)! I am marrying a Swedish guy and moving to Sweden - I would take the car with me if it weren't for the fact that we are starting a family and it doesn't lend itself well to three!

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Isn't anyone going to give this girl and idea of what her car is worth? She really didn't mention the condition of the interior. I know not having the original engine could be a significant problem with the value left in the car. I would guess there's a few Reatta owners out there thinking, "Hey, sounds like a good parts car". Look on the positive side, like you've said, you've had a good number of years driving a car you've loved on a daily basis and the mileage shows. Because no one else has bothered to comment, I'll say ask $3000.00 and be ready to negotiate. If anything is wrong with the electronics, consider going even lower. Now, let's see if anyone else will weigh in with their two cents.

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OK, here goes....<P>First, a good-looking car sells high and quick, a car with obvious wear doesn't. Get the rust fixed by a competent body shop that guarantees their work. Get the dent lifted by one of the shops that uses a paintless dent repair process. A car that looks great will bring more money, period. <P>Second, there's two ways to sell your car. Quick and getting what you can for it or slow, but holding out for top dollar. I don't know your departure date for Sweden, so that choice will be up to you. <P>If you must sell it quick, I don't think you can do that with an ad in the local paper in Kansas in late winter. Best bets are eBay or Yahoo auctions, setting either a low reserve or selling it with no reserve, willing to take what the market will pay for it. <P>If you go this route, USE PHOTOS. I'm amazed at how many people run a car in an online auction, expecting to get $5-10,000 dollars sight unseen. If you don't know how to post a photo electronically, call some computer dealers in your area and ask for the phone number of a local computer club. One of the club members would likely be glad to help you list the car, design the ad and submit an electronic image for little or no money. <P>Also, if you sell it online with little or no reserve, DO NOT state that you must sell the car quickly because you are leaving the country. Nearly everyone buying online is looking for PRICE, PRICE, PRICE and a desperate seller is a seller that is going to get screwed. <P>If you have time to hold out for more money, consider putting it on a used-car lot that takes consignments. That means the car is yours, you sell it for your price and the car lot only charges a flat fee or a percentage of the selling price. Do NOT wholesale, or sell the car outright to a dealer. That is the second-best way to get screwed. <P>If you have the time and are willing to do a little more work, consider listing and selling the car at a classic car auction. Go to the web site for Kruse International or Barrett-Jackson to see when the auction nearest you will occur. It will cost about $200-300 to list the car, plus a sellers fee if it sells of about 4-7%. If you go that route, check around to see what other cars like yours with similar miles and condition go for. Be reasonable on your selling price, and only list with a well-known classic car auction. Also understand that you must be there when the car is auctioned off, to agree to the highest bid. <P>Last, this is something you didn't ask about, but I will mention it anyway. Have you considered taking the car to Sweden and selling it there? Often, collectible American cars in great shape bring a huge premium in Europe. It might offset any shipping charges and registration fees to sell it there rather than here in the U.S. <P>No matter how you sell it, use a bill of sale, signed by both parties with witnesses or in front of a Notary Public. Be sure to include the following language: "CAR IS SOLD AS IS-WHERE IS WITH NO WARRANTIES WHATSOEVER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED." Many of us using this forum have horror stories about buyers that change their mind or want to change parts of the deal before, during or after the sale. <P>Now, I'll sit back and wait to see disagrees with me, tells me I'm crazy, etc. etc. etc. <P>Based upon your mileage, if the car appears to be in very good condition, you can expect to get between $3,500-6,000 for it. <P>Good luck selling your car!<P>Joe <p>[This message has been edited by Reatta Man (edited 02-15-2001).]

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Moving to Sweden:<BR><B>Any ideas what my asking price should be for a 90 Reatta? It has 175,000 miles on odometer but engine (I have paperwork) was rebuilt (under original waranty) and replaced with a motor that had 40,000 less miles on it. I don't know if that is marketable. The car is white with gray interior. Small dent on front of hood (down near bumber end). Car was mostly in Arizona so rust spots just showed up around top of windshield this past year (after move to KS). Any suggestions on price and methods to sale would be good. I have really loved this car and it has been the best car I've ever owned (as evidenced by the mileage)! I am marrying a Swedish guy and moving to Sweden - I would take the car with me if it weren't for the fact that we are starting a family and it doesn't lend itself well to three!</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>I live in OK and am looking for a reatta reasonable. I am looking for a daily driver, not for collector status, so the engine change won't bother me. E-mail me with the details and maybe we can work something out. My e-mail is stephdoug@hotmail.com.<BR>Thanks!!

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