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1990 Reatta, code: E034H, B552H and B663H


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Hi Folks!<BR>Once again my recently bought 25K miles Convertible have had these codes.<BR>The engine cranks with some mis-fire, almost one would think that it will fire up, but no go. <BR>I have had the above codes, though many a time the car has started and ran fine, but once it has sat for a few days, I will never know what is causing this condition. I have sprayed the Throttle Body Cleaner, and the car has started before, but now it doesn't.<BR>The car's battery is on Charge, however I do not understand this.<BR>I almost wonder if I made a bad decession buying this low Mileage Reatta???<BR>My wife is furious with my impulsiveness.<P>Prakash

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....did you remove the MAF before you sprayed. Just a thought but my Buick dealer has informed me that some spray cleaners can screw them up if sprayed directly on it. There are some powerful cleaners that can also damage the Idle Air Control motor as they have a propensity for reacting to plastics and wire enamel insulation and the IAC valve is located in a recessed port near the bottom of the throttle body....a place where the spray solvent might collect. The book says that an E034 indicates a failure of the MAF circuit but i'm not sure what a E034H is. Maybe one of our knowledgeable readers can help...?

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<P> E034 is a Airflow sensor fail. Unlike other sensors, this is not an out of range code, but a complete failure flag.<P> B552 is the BCM keep alive voltage fail. This usually is set when the battery is disconnected or runs down. Ir will also sometimes set when jump starting or if the alternator fails.<P> B663 is the cruise control is set for 30 MPH different from actual road speed. This will set if, for example, the cruise set speed is 40 MPH, and you use the accelerator to go above 70 MPH. <P> The funny looking h only means the code was set previously, and the malfunction is not now occuring. <P> The MAF sensor code is probably pointing to the source of your problems. Never use any solvent to clean the MAF or throttle body. The throttle body bore is coated with a compound which resists deposits and also frost. Solvent cleaners destroy this coating.<BR>If you must clean, use a soft rag and a detergent such as Simple Green. Wipe the area with a damp rag afterwards and dry.

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When it won't start try unpluging your Mas Air Flow sencer. It will set a code and and put the ECM in limp-in mode causing performance problems. When unpluged the ECM will ignore the MAF sencer. If the car starts than thats your problem. Double check the MAF sencer and wire harness otherwise replace MAF. I paid $185 not long ago for mine and it is not too hard to do. <P>If this does not fix it try writing down all of your engine sencer readings like MAF, TPS, coolant temp, etc.. Both key on engine off and cranking (when the problem happens). <BR>I can tell you if they sound right.<P>Also check all the basics.<P>Do you have a good spark at several spark plugs (check one from each coil)?<P>A low fuel pressure could cause hard start and poor running. With out a pressure gauge it's hard to tell. Try taking off the fuel rail cap and pushing down the scrader valve. After just cranking fuel should spraying up in the air. Don't do this with the plug wires off.<P>Tom

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Hello folks,<BR>many thanks for your replies,just before I bought the car, the owner showed me the bills , that a new fuel pump, as well as an O2 sensor plus an ECM module was replaced. <BR>I thought before I went and bought the MAF sensor I 'd check with the list and see if anything else I can do, before I run into any more expense.<BR>I , as a precaution checked and replaced new set of plugs, as well as a new K & N air filter.<BR>Many times the Reatta started first time, and if it didn't , I would know that it will have a starting difficulty, though I could crank and sometimes it would backfire and then start, but many a time I would be wasting my battery if I kept trying any further.<BR>What is the best way to remove the Throttle body, I have a feeling that perhaps I will try and clean with the insides of the throttle body with something mild, and then replace the MAF,I am not sure how I would go about this, if anyone has done this before, I 'd appreciate a pointer.<BR>The dealership which looked after this Reatta from new told me that the car was hardly driven as the owner had a car for each occasion of the year, hence the Reatta Conv. would need the head removed and de-carbonize the engine. I am not sure if this would cure the problem.<BR>Once started, the car ran great, had lots of power and have been a pleasure to drive.<BR>At present it is awaiting until the winter is gone, and I would like to drive it in the spring.<P>Prakash

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....don't let him remove the heads....just replace the MAF. Then if you still feel you must then have a Buick dealer flush your fuel system. < $100 and don't spray the MAF again.

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On Buick 3.8L the most common causes for intake backfire:<P>Bad MAF sencer - you had the code for<BR>Plug wires - arking between each other or crossed<BR>Low fuel pressure (pump, regulator, filter) causing a lean backfire<BR>Week ign coil pack - coil field colapsing too soon<BR>ECM bad - Because it was replaced with a rebuilt one does not mean it is good. It's possable to get someone elces problem with a rebuilt unit because the trouble was not fixed.<BR>Intake valve not seating - not likely<P><BR>I would check your plug wires for arking - try lightly spraying them with water wile running. If you see sparks or the engine misses then they are bad. Same with the ign coils. Check the ign coil terminals for resistance. All 3 should be about the same. The speck varries for which style of coil you have. <P>Otherwise just change the MAF sencer. I would recomend a fuel filter for maintence if it has not been done. You might want to have a shop do the fuel filter. The MAF is easy. Take the ruber air hose off by loosing the hose clamp. Then take out the phillips screws that hold it on. Don't drop them. I think it has a gasket to change too. <P>As far as cleaning the T-body I know a lot is said about some cleaners being bad for it. I have used a o2 sencer safe T-body cleaner (not carb clean) with out any problems. I spray a little with the engine off and a little with it running. It has to be running at idle to clean the IAC valve and seat. <P>Be cearfull not to spray too much or it will backfire out the excess followed by a flame setting the whole area on fire. Having water handy is a good idea. Don't use a fire extinguisher unless a last resort or the powder will clog up everything.<P>I would not go have the engine taken apart to clean out the carbon. How do they know it's full of carbon? GM made something called engine top cleaner available at dealer parts department. It is sapose to be real healpfull for cleaning carbon out of the heads and piston. Take it out and get on it to clean out the cobwebs. Fix the starting and check engine light first.<P>Tom<BR>

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