perezmaximus Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can losen the screws that hold the doors on my '67 hardtop? I want to align one of them but the screws are too tight. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest trevor ward Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Hi..,One way which has worked for me in the past is firstly try and give the bolts a good while to soak with a good releasing agent...We have Plus-gas..and i think you have a good one called PB blaster,but you get the idea The tool i use is a great big Phillips head screw driver with a hexshaped shank on it.Because it is hex shaped you can snug an adjustablewrench...or a pair vice grips, around the shaft to greatly assist the turning, whilst being able to press the screwdriver in with good pressureAlso i have done the above method, but using a round screwdriver, but with a piece of square bar welded on the shaft to achieve the same area for the wrench to fasten!! Hope this is of some help.... I always go to an impact screwdriver as a last resort, 'cos this can chew the heads and cause more problems Equally...this works for a freshly painted door going back on, 'cos you can offer a good tightening effect, with no hammering which may chipfresh paint Best of luck with this.... Trevor..... '64 Le sabre...tucked up warm for the winter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Green Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 A impact screwdriver will convince them to come out fairly easy. A little penetrating oil certainly won't hurt either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Tap the screw head smartly a few times with a drift or punch. apply penetrant tap smartly again a few times. A bit more pentrant then try the screw driver with a wrench trick. This often works....Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ewing Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 I get the tough ones out with a tap, and a Phillips #3 with a socket ( rachet )drive.Works every time.I find an impact driver or a screw driver can jump out and round off the grip face... not good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 With all due respect I ask: What tool are you using? If a common screwdriver, then go to Sears ( or NAPA) and buy a #4 size Phillips head "point" for 3/8" drive. The larger head will give you a solid fit in the screw and the point fits into a socket which then allows you to get serious leverage with a breaker bar while putting horizontal pressure on the tool to keep the tool and screw aligned.As for the penetrating oil, I agree but only if you can get access to the back of the screw. Putting it on the screw head will only make that more slippery and cause you more trouble.JD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave@Moon Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I find an impact driver or a screw driver can jump out and round off the grip face... not good. </div></div> I think what Ron was speaking of was a manual impact screwdriver, which uses the force of a hammer blow to produce a very small amount of rotation. They're very effective in cases like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ewing Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 I've never seen a manual impact screwdriver. Looks like a good option if you can get a good straight hit on the back of it. Should be able to line it up on the door hinges.I like a tight fitting Phillips, with firm pressure on the back of a ratchet driver.Another tip that should be obvious ( although if in a hurry we can all be guilty of not doing this) is to make sure the screw head is nice and clean so the driver can sits nice and tight into it and not spin out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Try tightening it a touch before loosening it. This sometimes breaks the rust free, leaving it freer to come out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Proper sized Phillips bit chucked in a socket attached to an appropriate length extension which is attached to an air powered impact wrench. Turn the pressure down and shock the sucker loose. Loosen tighten, loosen loosen tighten, loosen loosen loosen tighten, loosen loosen loosen loosen...Don't forget the lubricant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perezmaximus Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 WOW!Didn't think I would get any replies on this one. I will try all your suggestions until it's loose. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Getting some of these out in one piece is almost as satisfying as a real scre..... Oh , sorry, I forgot this was a family site for a moment there. JD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perezmaximus Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 Bought a #4 phillips socket bit for $5 and it worked perfectly, easy to loosen and tighten the rachet bit fitted on the screws perfectly.Finaly I aligned the rear door. Thanks to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 Perfect. Can I borrow the point?... Just kidding... JD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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