Guest BigKev Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 While I know this isn't your car, but here is a link to a '29 645 Sport Phaeton. The narrative is what caught my eye where the author states there were 21 different body styles offered in 1929 about the Straight 8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 Kev, I think you Forgot something. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> No Link <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />I found out that Pierce-Arrow made a similar coupe and they called theirs a Landau-coupe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 Sorry. Here is the link:http://www.bayberryclassics.com/Pages/vintage/29Packard.htmAlso how close is your car to this one, I know states it's a Convertible, but it does look damn close to your car:http://www.classiccarclub.org/images/1929%20Packard.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Also how close is your car to this one, it does look damn close to your car: </div></div>Yes, other than the Top and the wire-wheels, it's the same. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />I bet White exterior Trunks, like that one, are hard to find. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />It kinda sounded like the guy with the Pheaton didn't even know what the 645 number really meant ? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> To determine the proper name to call it (Landau or Sport) I need to find some original literature from the '20s. I've been trying to find an original magazine ad, but no luck so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 Rick,I wonder if the Landau Irons are similar on the ones on this '29 Packard. This one also looks like it has very similar door to yours.http://oldcarandtruckpictures.com/Packard/1929Packard-Standard-Eight-Series9-Model900.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 I think that is a Convertible-coupe. (A real convertible with complete door frames). It may have used the same rear body skin as mine, tho. The Landau arms are functional on that design but just decorative on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 The only Landau-Irons I could find were undrilled cast aluminum, like these at Mike's Ford parts, for $35. per set. They are Not the best Quality, but 'What ya Gonna Do'. I ordered some, to see if they will work. See Attachment: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 If I use them, I'll also have to fabricate all the mounting hardware, using threaded rod, tubing and special brackets mounted inside top, at back. I think they can Chrome plate cast aluminum, okay. The chances of finding some original type, that didn't need replating would be next to impossible, anyway. Ah, another challenge to add to the long List. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Rick do you need door handles?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1929-Pack...1QQcmdZViewItem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Thanks, Kev I may bid on those. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I received the set of Rumble-seat hinges from Washington state and they are in much better condition than what I was expecting from the discription given. Only needed the stop-pins repaired and I did that last night by grinding them down and pressing pieces of 7/8" steel tubing over them. Still need one stop spring but should be able to get that at hardware store. The only hard to find part that I need now is the Cap for gas-tank. I have an extra one that fits a 626 thru 640, but the 645s is completely different. I may have to fabricate it, unless someone knows where I can pick one up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 I found another Major Problem with the 645. The clutch pressure plate is cracked in two places (opposite sides of plate). I didn't notice them on initial inspection but when I was cleaning it for installation, they suddenly appeared (after cleaning crud out of hairline cracks). <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> One crack goes all the way thru the 1/2" thick plate at outer edge. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> What are my options here guys? I've never had to fix this problem before. Most of mine have been automatics. Can they be welded and be strong enough? If not is there someone that can make another? Anyone happen to have a Super-8 pressure-plate for sale? I have an extra for Standard-8 but it's made different. Help Needed, Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 I doubted that I would ever find a good 645 type tank-filler-Cap, so I made one. Made from 5 pieces of steel: fin, 2 semi-circles from flat bar, flat bar bent into a circle and the small hinge piece, then welded them together. Used grinders to smooth them out. Only took 2 afternoons. A little more sanding and polishing and it will be ready for plating. I made it by looking at pictures so I hope it is close to original? I also made the wire clamp, using welding rod. See Attachment:I still need Info on Clutch Pressure Plate, if anyone has any Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Your one Handy-Andy Rick. If you ever want to come to Calif and fabricate some stuff on my '54, your more than welcome! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Hey, sounds like Fun, I've never worked on a '54. All we need are a Gas Welder, a grinder, some Big Hammers, and a keg of beer, and We'll have a party, Texas Style. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> We'll make the Sparks Fly. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 Hey that sounds like a plan. Are you sure 1 keg with be enough? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />Actually Ratpac has access to the a junked Cavalier. So he said I could have the floor out of it. So I was hoping to get the floor out of that Cavalier and shoe-horn in into to replace the swiss-cheese floor in my Clipper. I would like to see if I can also cut some body patch panels off that Cavalier to fit some of the rust areas around the wheel wells (doglegs have some rust-through). Now I have never done anything like this, but it's the learning experience that I want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 Well kev i just bought a new toy yesterday at an auction sale, i could not pass up, a 225A tig. stick welder for $230cdn. This should help with doing some body work, now i just have to learn how to use the tig part of it. I brought it home in the trunk of the Packard but had problem getting it back out due to the weight, we ended up using the engine hoist to lift it out. See pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 That welder looks nice, and also that Drum-Puller I could put to good use! I can't wait to see what you accomplish with it. I would love to put you and Rick to work on my '54 for a few days!!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />I need to go take some welding and body-shop classes at the community college, as I have no one local to learn from. I also have a feeling I am going to have to buy a used generator for garage so I can run a decent welder and compressor. The electrical is sub-par in the garage, and to upgrade the main panel (it's maxed out) and run new circuits all the way to the garage would get pretty expensive at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The electrical is sub-par in the garage </div></div>As I've said before, You should try an Acetylene Welder, it will handle most jobs very well, except for thin flat sheet metal (warps). You can become a metal Sculptor with a Gas Welder. Sure it takes a little practice, but what welding doesn't? And of course it's portable, you can take it anywhere. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I've even used it for flat panels by putting lots of wet rags around the weld area and working slowly, to keep it cool and from warping. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> a 225A tig. stick welder for $230cdn. </div></div> Good price for a Great welder. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Sure hope your shop wiring can handle it? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted June 11, 2006 Share Posted June 11, 2006 I think i'am also going to have to upgrade the service to the garage now the welder draws 100A at 220v on its max setting, so right now i can only use it on the lower settings, as i tried it out as a stick welder this morning, i still have to pick up electroids and a couple of other parts to use the tig part of it. Kev as far as the floor goes it's almost flat except at the very front it has a small bend that you should be able to bend over a piece of i beam without a problem. as long as the hump part of the floor is ok. One other thing to check is the floor supports and the inner rocker panels, but you can have them bent at a sheet metal shop with out a problem and the underseat brace which runs under the flood from front to back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Well, looks like none of you Bums know how to fix a Clutch Plate, So like my Wife keeps telling me to do, tomorrow I shall 'Seek Professional Help'. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> As in, Call some Clutch Repair Shops. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 12, 2006 Share Posted June 12, 2006 Here's what a broken clutch pressure plate looks like. The cracks are at 3 and 9 o'clock in attached picture. You can zoom in and see cracks. I think the reason it cracked was that the lever-fingers were not all adjusted the same making unequal pressure on the plate. So far everyone I've talked to say that it can not be repaired but Dallas Brake and Clutch are trying to find one that can be made to work. See Attachment: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 14, 2006 Share Posted June 14, 2006 In case someone out there is interested, I tought I'd make another suggestion for anyone restoring a pre-war car with Chassis-lubrication oil-line and pump system (Bijur system). If you need to remove the chassis oil lines at front frame horns, it is best to unsolder the tubing at the special soldered tees in front of the radiator-cross-brace. The tubing can not be pulled out thru the holes in frame without damaging them, if they are not unsoldered. Then when reinstalling them resolder as you would any copper tubing. I used a 50.Watt soldering Iron. I now have all the oil lines and fittings installed in the 645s chassis. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />I only had to make one splice that wasn't there before, where someone had crushed the tubing. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Rick,Yours must be different then my '31 I was able to pull them out without unsoldering. The only problem I had was on the passenger side the tube had some bends that I could not pull through the frame holes. So I cut it at a covenant spot and will put in a union there when it is time to reinstall it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 15, 2006 Share Posted June 15, 2006 Yes, on the '29s there are fittings on each side of the frame radiator support (left and right), that will not go thru holes in that support, without making a tight 90deg bend in tubing, which cracks them. I found this out when I was restoring the 626 several years ago and broke one before figureing out how to do it by unsoldering. The oil fittings there go to front-shocks and brake-cam-rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Anyone know what size the exhaust Tail pipe should be on the 645 Super-8? I know it's 2.5" from manifold back to muffler (I have the original to copy there) but I think they used a smaller size from muffer back. Probably 2.25 or 2"? I would like to make it same size as original if posible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Rick your car is such a enigma that you probably could use any size you wanted. I mean where would someone find with another one to prove you wrong! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> LOL <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Yes, you are probably correct, but I keep hopeing a 645 expert will find this forum and have All the Answers. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 I have about desided to go with the 2.25" for tail pipe, since it will be the easyest to fit to a muffler with 2.5" inlet and I already have enough pipe in that size to fab it up, except for one 90deg bend piece, needed in front of the gas tank. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> But thought I would give someone time to disagree with my choice, before starting on it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 I think you have waited the required 45 mins, you are in the clear now! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 I measured the tailpipe hanger bracket that I have and it is 2.25". According to parts manual it is the correct bracket for 645. So I'll be using the 2.25" tubing to do tailpipe. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> The parts manual shows picture of only one tailpipe assembly, altho there were at least 6 different part # versions of it in '29. Does anyone know if they All (645 mainly interested in) had the Flattened portion (into oval shape) at the tailpipe Outlet, as the picture in manual shows? The Oval shaped outlet does give it more of a Finished look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Rick, Check out all the Packard items this guy has listed on ebay. He has several 1928-29-30 Packard Items. Maybe you can you something he has. I like the ornate handles.http://search.stores.ebay.com/Sheryl-Vin...2265447QQsofpZ0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Yes, Sheryl comes up with some Great Stuff. I just hope I can afford some of them. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Well, I've put away all the Metal working tools, and got out the Wood working tools. I'll be a Carpenter, for the next 6 months or so. There sure are a lot of wood parts that need replacing. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> It appears that the rumbleseat-hinges I got are not exactly the same as originals were, so I will be reengineering the wood pieces around them. More Creative Fun! I Love working with Wood! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 My dad an i did new coach work (all the wood )for a 1928 Auburn boat tail, and made new wood from the firewall to the end of the boat tail, due to the dry rot and bugs that had gotten in to it. It took us 3 months of work working at night and weekends. We found out after this car was #7 of the first 25 Auburn boat tails built, as it had extrason it the later one did not have, ie it had 2 golf club doors and 2 spare tires, the ones after only came with one.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Do you know Where the '28 Auburn is Now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Not sure where the Auburn is now, we think it in England, the owner sold it and 5 other cars including a Lincoln Contental convertibal with a V12, for a basket case, for an old a Duensenberg which is now in the Wataska musem in Alberta Canada on display restored.... here is the link http://www.ourheritage.net/index_page_st...Museum/ram.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Rick, Check out the items on ebay. She has several '29 Packard Items. I like the ornate handles. </div></div> Well, Kev I won the bid on the handles and the domelight. Had to use Next months budget to do it, <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> But since I think those are the type the 645 orginally had, I guess they are worth it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I was going to have to use 626 style handles, if I did't pay the price. I now have some good 626 handles (with black insert) for Sale probably, that will Recoupe part of the cost. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigKev Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Those are very nice looking pieces. Very ornate. Congrats! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 I think the 3rd exterior handle is for Rumbleseat/trunk, so I'll try to modify the handle/latch assembly I have, to use it. That set of handles probably came off of a Coupe, (Maybe Mine, wouldn't that be a Kick). <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> They Are, in the same general area my car came from. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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