Headlight bellcranks

[Barney Eaton]

Attached is a picture of the various stages of headlight bellcrank failure.

On the left is a good used bellcrank. We are looking at the hole in the middle.

It should have flat sides.

The center picture shows about 40% wear. The hole is starting to look like a bow-tie.

The right bellcrank is a total failure, hole is completely round.

I wish I knew how to post the picture on the post without you needing to click on the attachment but this will do for now.

Happy Holidays

[Guest EDBS0]

Click on the Attachment.

When it opens highlight the address and cut ot copy it.

tha address is http://forums.aaca.org/misc/343210-BELLCRANKS.jpg

Go back to your post and edit it.

Click on the immage box in the Instant UBB Code box.

Paste the cut or copied address into the box that opens and click on OK.

Click on continue and you have the picture

[Vincent Vega]

like this

[Jim]

Robert,

I also was wondering how to put the picture in the body of the letter and tried following your instructions on a post I made yesterday about the seat tracks. When I clicked on the "attachment" the picture came up but that is all. There was no address with it. How do I find the address like you showed for Barney's picture?

Thanks, Jim

[manikmekanik]

Excellent subject for posted photos, Barney!

Can you also post a photo of what a bellcrank/headlamp door repair kit, with a link to where they are available?

I'm sure there are more than a few here who need one, or two, and would rather buy here than taking chances with some of those eBay vendors, they sell the same stock bushings which will wear out all over again.

[Barney Eaton]

OK, here is the picture I am presently using on Ebay.

The top assembly is the original bellcrank and link that came on your Reatta.

The smaller steel part is my replacement part. The three rollers go inside the motor and the little plastic nut is for the headlight UP-STOP.

I sell the bellcrank, rollers, and UP-Stop nut as a kit, with instructions for $40 including shipping. If you just need the bellcrank, it is $35

You clean and lubricate the link for reuse, and you must transfer the rubber bumper from the original part to the new one. (GM doesn't give you a new bumper in their $150 bellcrank replacement) If your bumper is damaged or lost, you can use a section of heater hose for the bumper.

To contact me, click on my name and send me a note.

[manikmekanik]

Thanx, Barney!

I'll put one on my Santa list.

The perfect gift for a Reatta owner with weak or inoperational headlamp doors.

[Guest EDBS0]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Robert,

. How do I find the address like you showed for Barney's picture?

Thanks, Jim </div></div>

You could make a business trip to Ottawa and I will gladly show you around. I recommend late February for the Winter Ice Festival. OR,

You should have an address bar just under the row of buttons at the top of the page. If you have this suppressed then click on the attachment link and when the picture come up right click on the image and when the menu comes up you will see properties on at the bottom, Click on Properties and you will see Address (URL). Highlight ALL of the address, cut and then past into the Image box as per above post. Some times the address is on 2 lines, get it all.

Then come to Ottawa on a Reatta and software training mission.

Let me know if this works.

[Guest EDBS0]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">OK, here is the picture . </div></div>

Looks like you got it!!!

[subuguru]

Hello, I tried to email you but it gets kicked back to me. I would like to purchase two kit. Where do I go Barney? Thanks, David

[reattadudes]

Barney,

the factory bellcrank assembly is still available from GM (GM part number 16510108) and does indeed include the rubber bumper. the crank assembly is not $150, but is available from gmpartsdirect.com for $66.00. it is sold as a complete assembly, and does not require any assembly in the hinge portion.

I still have the "half" crank assemblies that you had given me, and have had no luck whatsoever making them work. I thought it was my own stupidity, so I sent them to a customer who is an automotive engineer at GM. he had no luck either, pointing out that the factory crank assemblies had a ball swivel and lock washer at the hinge point to allow free movement, which the rigid attachment with a nut and bolt of your design will prevent. he also felt that the nut would loosen over time, as it will be in an extremely high-torque position. the factory design had the free movement allowed with the ball swivel arrangement.

I realize that the factory design does leave a little to be desired concerning the "rounding out" of the hole. however, with an average lifespan of about ten years, its more than good enough for me.

Mike

[89REATTAJIM]

Installed two of these kits on a friends Reatta. No problem with installation or results. Working fine. Will get same kits if/when mine go bad.

[Barney Eaton]

Mike... sorry to hear you had a problem and went elsewhere for a solution.

My steel bellcrank functions just like the factory unit. There is no "swivel" on the factory bellcrank part or mine, the bronze bearing that adjust for geometry changes is trappped in the LINK not the bellcrank.

The method of holding the bronze bearing to the bellcrank shaft is actually improved on my part. The locking nut traps the bearing and all the alignment and movement is on the outside of the bearing. On the factory bellcrank, the "C" clip retainer only keeps the link from falling off. It can pivot on the outer surface of the bearing or around the shaft..not the ideal design.

If in doubt, look at the method GM used on the other end of the link for mounting...the same as mine.

[Booreatta]

I have used the parts that I got from Barney and found them to be easy to use

and have not had any problems. I did the fix in April of 05 and they are still working well. I did have to go back in last month and adjust the up stops as I was getting a little wiggle but the turn of the wrench fixed that. I hope that I wont have to do the headlights any more.