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compartment latches


Barney Eaton

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If you have a broken compartment latch, I have successfully repaired (reworked) the pass through from a floor compartment or glove box into a latch for a pass-thru. The glove box and floor storage latches are the same, the pass thru is different and no longer available. If you have a broken pass-thru call me or send a note (barney@texas.net) and I will work with you to repair it. <P><P>------------------<BR>Barney Eaton Reatta technical advisor for BCA and keeper of the Reatta database.

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Those items are pretty fragile. I have one that is broken and the plastic is starting to shear on the other. I suspect that this is a pretty common problem. Can you post the repair here?<P>Thanks!

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It's not a method to repair all broken latches. It is a method to take a broken pass-thru latch and fix it with a good glove box latch.<P>Pass-thru assemblies are discontinued but certain colors of the other are still available. This was probably a common part for many GM glove boxes. Part of the problem is you need the key to remove the lock cylinder. Without the key, removing the cylinder is the hardest part of the job. <P>------------------<BR>Barney Eaton Reatta technical advisor for BCA and keeper of the Reatta database.

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Barney...<P>Don't waste your time on trying to remove that lock cylinder without a door key! It takes forever, and I just took a blue latch from a junked Reatta to a local lock smith...he removed it in about 5 minutes while we chatted, and didn't even charge me! I would have paid $5 or so as it surely seemed worth it! <BR>Later, I used plastic model paint in spray form from a hobby shop, and got about a 90% match for the tan interior. <P>Just a suggestion...

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  • 23 years later...

Does anyone have any photos or a diagram of the pass thru latch?  I have one that is disassembled & would like to be able to install it.  I do have the key for it & the lock/latch bar moves in and out as I assume it should. 

 

I'm currently using a rare earth magnet glued to each top corner of the panel to keep it closed.

 

The loose parts are: a chrome tube, a diecast piece, a spring, & the plastic handle.   I can get everything fit, but have no clue where the spring goes or if I have it right.

 

Thanks

 

 

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Above I said the latches are the same........but they are not,  from the outside they look the same.

Updating this post.... the shop manual is not helpfull at all.   So I disassembled my pass thru today and here are the photos.  

The red latch is for the pass thru and note it does not have the same mechanism as the silver latch. 

The red latch has an extension of the slider that is moved by the lock/key.  That extension pushes on that bracket on the right side. 

that causes the links to push on the end pivots and they have a "U" shaped notch that does the latching on both sides. 

If your pass thru is not locking properly,  you probably need to adjust those pins that stick out.   If you pass thru door is 

deformed, one side might want to lock and the other one does not.    You may need to take it apart so you can see how the latches are

engaging.   maybe all you need to do is put a little pressure on the right or left side to make them work better. 

Sorry about the picture quality of the latching mechanism. 

Also note that two of my screw bosses were broken.  I glued them today and tomorrow I will reinforce them....hopefully they well hold. 

pass thru.jpg

pass thru mech.jpg

Edited by Barney Eaton (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

I first glued the pieces back together with instant glue...... that holds everything so you can reinforce

the broken connection.    I watched a recent Utube video where a guy used lots of different methods to 

repair plastic parts.    On one of the post, I found a plastic tube (ball point pen housing) that the inside diameter

was the same as the outside of the screw bosses.   I applied epoxy to the outside of the post and slid the plastic

tube over the boss....after it dried, I cut off the excess. 

On the other one because of a clearance issue,  I uses some metal strips that I found at a hardware store. 

they are sold as fixes of loose rungs on wooden chairs...they are a strip of metal that has been stamped with bumps. 

I cut them to about 3/8 long, bent in half and then with a soldering iron,  melted them into the plastic, holding the two 

halfs together.     The Utube guy used braided shielding from electric wire to do the same thing but I did not have any handy 

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