1965 Chrysler New Yorker 413 temperature sensor

[Bill Prince]

As for as I know, my temperature sensor (green-red light) was working before I pressure washed the engine. When starting the car, both would illuminate. Then the red would go off and the green would go out in a few minumtes when the engine was warmed up. Never say the red come on with the engine running. NOW, the green stays on most of the time and one time I saw the red try to illuminate. I don't want to run the car hot and not know it, and I don't want to have the green light on when the car is warmed up. I would not mind having a gauge and the lights. Suggestions? replacement sensor source? Temperature gauge brand and hook up?

[65Coronet7165]

I cann't help you but I can sympathize. I've got a '67 300 and it has the blue cold and red hot lights. I saw the cold light come on 1 time. It has never come on before or since, not even when you turn the key and should get the idiot light check at first start-up. I've never seen the hot light come on except at the idiot check at start-up. I WISH Chrysler had not dispenses with the temp guages for these cars. I think all their other models have a temp guage!! Anyone know how we can hook up a temp guage and keep the idiota lights too???

[Bill Prince]

1965 Chrysler New Yorker 413 w/o A/C. I think that I have solved the problem (not sure about the green light yet, however). The other night, the car's red HOT light came on and stayed on as I drove it several miles, but the car did not seem to be very very hot. I did think that it was too hot however, but not leaking fluid or pinging or the like. It just seemed hot under the hood. Well, I pulled out the termostat (I am glad that it had one because this indicated that it could be the termostat - otherwise, who knows!). First of all the termo was a 180 deg (the car came from Penn and now in hot Houston Texas). I put the termo in water that I brought to a boil. The termo only began to open when the water was boiling. I bought a new 160 deg termo and then put both the old and new in the water. The new one opened up before the water boiled and the opening was larger than the old one (higher flow rate). It also took much longer to close than the old termo once they were removed from the water. I installed the new 160 termo and started the engine (the car was cold). Both the red and green light illuminated for an instant when cranking the engine. Then, with the radiator cap removed, I watched for the green light to go out and water flow to begin. Right after the green light went out, the flow begain indicating the termo had opened (air was now warm going threw the radiator). Then I installed the radiator cap and let the engine run for 15 min. This was at night and not in 100 deg ambient temp, but still hot in a confined garage. The red light never came on. Then I turned the engine off and waited 5 min. and restarted the engine. Still no red light or leakage out of the overflow with the 7 psi radiator cap. I plan on keeping the 7 psi cap (helps prevent bursting a weak radiator seam should one exist) and installing an overflow container kit. It seemed that the temperature was less under the hood than before I replaced the termostat. Just a sence, not measured. I think that the red HOT light is calibrated to come on on the low side of HOT, maybe when a gauge would be reading over the half way point and before it truely got HOT HOT HOT. So, with all new belts and hoses, 160 termo and overflow kit, I should be ready to rock. I will see this weekend when I drive it in 100+ deg weather and also see if the green light comes on when the engine is at running temperature.

[thilo]

hi bill,

my best friend and me own the same car as you and we´re buisy with restoring it.

probably, you can help us. we´re searching for the glas cover for left headlight. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

have you got one or do you know someone, who got it? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

would be great!!!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

[Guest kimphall]

Did the same thing. Pressure drives water into sensor. These have a bimetal strip inside that floats between the hot and cold contacts. At normal temp, it is in the middle and touches neither. I fixed my Ford one. You have to grind off the part of the metal that is rolled over the plastic part. You can then remove the center contact plate assembly and dry it out. Also, freshen up the contacts. You can test it by seeing if the bimetal touches the cold terminal when cold and heat it to find the temp it goes hot at or just make sure it will touch it at some heated point. Then, put the thing back together. To secure it, you could solder some brass onto the base over the ridge on the center part or use adhesive. I put a protective rubber cap over mine which overlaps the whole unit and only lets the posts stick out. And don't power wash the thing...

[Guest kimphall]

Both red and green lights will come on when starting as well as others possibly. This is a bulb checking feature.

[ted sweet]

why a 160 stat?