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Some body out there must know the answer: How well do the early type "external' brakes work? My 24 model 70 didn't come witha master cyl so i'm considering getting one with a booster. I used to have a Ford model A (Yes, I know they can't be compaired) and the pedal effort was so high every stop in traffic caused heart pounding panic. Would a little assistance help on the Chrysler?

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Leif W/Old Chrysler....External contracting brakes when properly adjusted are very good units. Basically they are self energizing due to the fact the wrapping action occuring upon application draws the band arround the drum. Drawbacks include exposure to the elements (water/dirt) which can interfere with application; especially water and ice. If you set up your system according to factory spec these units should produce a four wheel skid when firmly applied. Make sure you also have your transmission mounted "emergency" brake (which is mechanical) set up just in case. Having these brakes properly bled and the lines, master cylinder and wheel cylinders full of fluid will control pedal movement upon application. I don't think a booster system will improve action. A modern master cylinder with an attached reserve might help; however, let me warn you I don't have any experience in this area! Again, I would study all the literature on these units available and work on them to gain a full knowledge as to the ins and outs of their operation.

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Guest imported_Ricky Luke

I have just driven my Dad's 29 Plymouth for the first time in about 15 years (long rebuild). I was suprised how good the brakes are - hydraulic internal shoes on steel drums. I strongly suggest that you test out what was probably a very good system before making any modifications. Remember skidding isn't stopping. You may try and stop faster than your tyres will allow if a modified setup is too sensitive.

Now if you had a 1 ton Chev 6 truck with rod actuated external contracting bands ON THE REAR ONLY (!!!), I'd say you should modify.

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