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1926 Chrysler 50 brakes


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Having terrible time with the early hydraulic brakes on my 26 Chrysler mod 50 touring car. I've completely rebuilt all components, replaced all lines and had m.cylindr professionally sleeved. I even rigged up a pressure bleeder to bleed the system but every few months or so, the whole pedal starts hitting the floor boards again.I noticed the master cylinder doesn't contain any other components but the piston and cup. Seems strange.Haven't found any leakage anywhere. Never get a really good pedal even after pressure bleeding. Have installed a turn off petcock in line to reservoir can on firewall otherwise totally impossible to bleed as m.cylinder backs up into reservoir can instead of pushing to wheel cylinders. Any help greatly appreciated.Yes, the air hole in cylinder is clear.

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crazycars....Have you checked the adjustment of the brake bands? If they are wearing in in such a way that it requires more and more fluid as the bands seat (ie, pistons have to move further thus a greater volume); you may be using the fluid that way.

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crazycars...I agree early brake shoes are a problem to adjust; however, when right they should put the car into a four wheel skid. External contracting systems such as these are easier to set than internal expanding for this era. These are great brakes until you drive in wet conditions.

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I don't know if this will help, I could not bleed the brakes on my 49. I tried a vac, pump and still could not get any flow. An old timer at a local flee market told me to brake the line nearest to the mc (before the tee) hook up my bleeder directly to the brake line and work my way out to the wc's. It worked! Must be small pockets of air trapped.

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Our '26 model 58 tourer has a factory pump on the reservoir which is used to pre-pressurise the brake system as apparently they do not have any residual pressure at all. I'm not sure how often you need to do this, it was suggested fairly regularly. I can email picture & if In can find manual scan pages if required. I have also found these reservoirs on other 25-28 4 & 6 cyl cars.

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  • 4 years later...
Our '26 model 58 tourer has a factory pump on the reservoir which is used to pre-pressurise the brake system as apparently they do not have any residual pressure at all. I'm not sure how often you need to do this, it was suggested fairly regularly. I can email picture & if In can find manual scan pages if required. I have also found these reservoirs on other 25-28 4 & 6 cyl cars.

I'd love to have the attached pics for the F 58 but cant open them from this site

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Guest martylum

I rebuilt the brake system on a 29 Desoto several years ago with relined wheel and master cylinder. It too has a remote master cylinder reservoir with internal expanding brake shoes.No problem with bleeding or getting a good pedal and keeping it or pressurizing the reservoir. I 'm wondering if your master cylinder is working properly when it sends pressure into the reservoir rather than out to the wheels. I suspect it isn't.

Suggest pulling the master cylinder and doing a very close inspection of what's going on inside . I wondering if you have the correct rebuild parts inside the master. I'd try a new set of inner parts and be sure all ports are open. Before you pull the master make sure the pushrod coming from the brake pedal is properly adjusted-see your owners manual for proper adjustment.

Martin Lum

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Thanks Martin..all I have so far is the 4 wheel and a master cylinders...restored at a brake place with stainless inserts. i have the copper pipes etc. The thing is I dont have any idea of reservoirs or the placing of. I wanted to download your pics because it might show a setup. I have no manual and dont know what a pump is .I have just finished a F58 with manual links to the back. This is a new project. i live in the bush and dont get to see other cars. I dont need to use real parts. I dont even know how you get the fluid in...Thanks..Laz

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Guest martylum

Laz-send me your e-mail address and I will send some 1929 photos of the brake parts. I haven't figured out how to send any of my library photos to the AACA website yet but I can e-mail you directly out of my photo library.

Martin Lum

marty@oldercar.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

You have lots of help solving your problem! I think you need to start with the fluid resivour and make sure it seals and does not leak. Then open it and pump it a few times,closing it tightly before you try the breaks !You can expect small amounts of leakage as these cars weren't precision. If that doesn't work ,call my cell at 610-462-3631

If you are sure you have properly bled those cylinders then the problemis still in the resivour and seal.

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