Fuel sending unit

[bebop138]

The task of getting the 52 on the road started today. After a ten year rest I started with removing the gas tank---there was still gas in it(about two gallons) after all this time and about three pounds of rust scale. Dumped the stuff in five gallon pales till it was empty. Then washed it out with alot of simple green and rinsed it clean. To be sure I am sending it out to be boiled out and re-sealed. The sending unit appears to be shot, where would you recomend I get another one. The car was always garaged but unheated, what do you guys think about the fuel pump and carb??

[Guest imported_BaronvonR]

What I would do is get the original part number for the tank unit and do a parts search on www.partsvoice.com or one of the other parts locator services. This is how I have found many of the parts I was looking for.

BvR

[Guest DaveKop]

I bought one from Andy Bernbaum last year for $75.00. Maybe someone else is cheaper.

http://www.oldmoparts.com/p.htm

[HarryJ]

52er....Several people rebuild sending units of this era. If the reostat is not severly corroded a little judicious application of oil and time might get it working again. Check a reference such as "Hemmings" for people to rebuild the unit. As to the fuel pump, carb, and fuel lines ; I would rebuild all of them. There is bound to be shellac residue in all of these systems. Make sure the car is fully lubricated before you crank and drive it. Main bearings, rod bearings, and cylinder bores that have been sitting for some time will become dry as to lubrication.

[bebop138]

Harry, I am going to do the pump and carb, I will run carb cleaner down the fuel lines till she runs clean. The line looks very good, carb cleaner should clean this up---do you agree?

[HarryJ]

52er....Sounds like you have the fuel system well under control; make sure and put some oil in each of the cylinders and change the oil in the pan. Turn it over without starting a bit to insure the oil pump is primed and generating pressure. When you do crank it, first look at the oil pressure guage and make sure you have pressure; check your owner's manual or repair manual for the correct operating pressure. Good luck!

[bebop138]

Harry, As far as the sending unit the rod moves freely up and down the corks seem to be bad, way heavy--water logged? New corks in order or is there something else that would work? Assuming the sending unit works, being I have not even had power to the car at all I have know idea if anything works!!! We will be dropping the pan to insure there will be no problems later--Jon Robinson has informed me on the how to.... by the way is there any way of testing the unit outside of the car??? Thanks

[HarryJ]

52er...I am not an electrical expert by any means; however, the sending unit is a variable resistor, which can probably be hooked up to a volt meter and tested. I would talk to a friend who is an electrical expert and get their advice. The dash unit can be tested can be tested by running a 6 volt current through a variable resistor connected to the tank leads. As long as the resistor on the sending unit is OK and the arm and mechanism work freely it should function.

[bebop138]

I am going to put the battery in and hook up the wire to the sending unit outside the car---move the arm up and down and watch my gas gauge, easy do!! Will be getting a new float out of a newer gas tank to replace the cork style if the unit tests OK. Thanks for the input...