Dan McInnis Posted March 9, 2005 Share Posted March 9, 2005 I've two rebuilt carburetors. Both clean. Both leak through their float chambers, it seems. For troubleshooting, I've bypassed the vacuum tank and connect the carburetor(s) directly to my boat fuel tank elevated above the engine. Car runs great for 5 minutes, loads up, floods and stalls. When the motor is off fuel continues to drip. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 Are you positive the floats float. Shake them to listen for gas inside. Either that or the seat is damaged, possibly scratched or cracked. Has to one or the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dave Wilburn Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 I have two carbs for my 24 tourer, but both are cracked. I soldered one up, but now its a little heavy and runs rich. Any ideas of where to get a good carb float? Does anyone make a repro? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrgearhead Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 DAVEYOUR FLOAT MAY BE HEAVY DUE TO GASOLINE STILL TRAPPED INSIDE. HERE'S HOW TO REMOVE IT.FIRST DRILL A 1/16 INCH OR SMALLER HOLE IN THE CRACK? THIS IS TO DRAIN OUT THE GASOLINE TRAPPED INSIDE. TO FIND THE CRACK PUT FLOAT IN BOILING WATER. THE GASOLINE INSIDE WILL BUBBLE OUT. THAT?S WHERE YOU DRILL. DIPPING THE FLOAT IN BOILING WATER WILL SQUIRT THE GASOLINE OUT. USE A PAIR OF PLIERS TO HOLD THE FLOAT. SUBMERGE FLOAT IN BOILING WATER USING PLIERS FOR 5 SECONDS, DRILLED HOLE TO SIDE. REMOVE FLOAT FROM WATER AND AIM HOLE DOWN OVER AN EMPTY CAN. THE HOT GASOLINE WILL COME SQUIRTING OUT. REPEAT THIS UNTIL NO GASOLINE SQUIRTS OUT OF FLOAT. ALLOW FLOAT TO COOL AND SOLDER DRILLED HOLE CLOSED. CAUTION DO NOT DO THIS ON AN OPEN FLAME NATURAL GAS STOVE. REMEMBER THIS GAS IN THE FLOAT IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dave Wilburn Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 I got the gas out of the float by drilling a 1/32 hole in the float and used a can of compressed air to pressurize the inside of the float with the hole pointing down, when the pressure was released, it blew out the gas. My float actually had two 1/2" long cracks and by the time I soldered both of them up along with the hole I made, it seems to run rich now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 This may sound a little simple but have you tried adjusting the mixture?Also one can turn the weights over on the float bowl cover if they have worn flat spots on them, which has allowed the float to raise higher.Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan McInnis Posted March 11, 2005 Author Share Posted March 11, 2005 Thank you for giving me some advice - I have 2 carburators and 1 has a snap top which I can look into the carb as it fills - it must be that the float is not going high enough - I will look at the bottom and see if I have any flat spots - thanks again - I know I will get this solved soon - been working at it for a few weeks - thanks again - Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnweiner Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 I just discovered that I have a cracked float in my vacuum tank. I think I understand your method for getting the gas out. Could someone describe the procedure for soldering the crack closed?It is, coincidentally, also on a '25 Dodge Touring.-Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Arnett Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Scott: Here is the way I do mine. Rember that you are working with old brass which is very britle and thin. Take steel wool and polish off the tarnish around the crack. Get low temp. flux and low temp solder. I do not use plumbing solder. Go to radio shack and get low temp solder. Use either a small solding iron or a butane powered soldering torch. Flux the area well and use the iron/torch to heat the area. Apply a small amount of solder. Every bit you add, adds weight to the float. Hope this helps.Jan <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnweiner Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Jan-Thanks for the info. I actually forged ahead and soldered it myself before I saw your reply. I basically did as you described. I tested it and discovered five (!) cracks. After some considerable trial and retesting, I got them all sealed and it floats.Now the bad news. As I was tightening a fitting on top after reassembling, I accidentally overtightened and shattered the top of the vacuum tank into about six pieces. I was crushed. In researching this morning, it looks like I can get a reproduction from a company in Australia for about $130 plus $80 shipping. Does anyone know of a better option stateside?-Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
claydiamond Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Scott,I may have a top you can use for your vacuum tank if that is all you need. I bought a used vac tank and it was to rusty for repair. I do not know if they are all the same or not. I do not have any of the fittings that will go onto top however as I plan on useing them on the tank I ordered from Gene Sanson in NJ.He has old tanks, I have one coming just dont know what shape it will be in. Get back to me if you are interested.Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagnweiner Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Skip-The top is all I need. I have the fittings. Please send me an e-mail at sjohnson@fwhtlaw.com and we can discuss.Thanks,Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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