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I replaced the quarter window leading edge rubbers on my car with ones from Classic Buicks. The first set I bought had a piece with a detached steel spine so I sent it back. The next set is fine, but the rubber is so soft that if I close the door with the window cracked it will fall inside the car and then bind up when i try to roll it up. I have to push it back out and then roll it up. And its so soft that the window motor has trouble overcoming the rubbers resistance.<P>Are the ones from Steele or other companies any better?

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I replaced these on two different cars. I bought them from Steele Rubber Products and I was satisfied with both. Steele sells a self-stick cloth covering that matches the original material. The cloth offers very little resistance (a lot less friction) so that power windows go up and down smoothly.<BR>Since you already have the seals, I would recommend that you purchase the cloth covering and that should at least solve the friction problem.<P>Here's their web page in case you don't have it:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.steelerubber.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.steelerubber.com/</A> <P>Good luck!

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Tomsriv<BR> Poor quality repo parts seems to be a real problem! A defective fuel pump I bought from Buick Specialists just about burned my 56 up today. I had smelled gas yesterday when I drove it and started it in the drive to check it out this morning. Fuel was spraying from fuel pump ( replacement for defective rebuilt 1 1/2 year ago )and it caught fire before I could get car shut off. Luckily my wife was washing her car right next to it and I used the hose on a fine mist to get it out before she got the fire exstinguisher from under the seat. I've noticed that the carb ( rebuilt by me from part Buick specialist supplied ) is squirting fuel from small hole in drivers side when accelerator is depressed also. I ordered new exhaust for the car and the drivers side tail pipe was too long ( I have 56 special and it might be a 56 Roadmaster pipe ? ) I had to go through all kinds of crap to get the guy to send a new shorter pipe. I had cut the first pipe to fit and when I disassembled the rear end to install the replacement pipe it was the same as the original pipe they sent me. I've wanted to keep this factory air car original but all this stuff has me wondering if I should just modify it with parts I can get locally that will run and not need to be replaced constantly. I don't have the same trouble with my 65 GMC hot rod that I use custom parts on? Thanks our51super for the tip on window parts I need to replace most of my door rubber parts and need a good source.

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Judd-you are much better off tossing that old 322 and go to a Chevy 350. Your great grandkids will still be able to buy parts for it and no one will know the difference when they see it driving down the road.You can keep the rest of the car looking entirely original

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If you are going to modify the car, at least have the courtesy of keeping it all Buick. Everybody uses a Chevy small block!! Dare to be different! I have a 455 Buick in my 37 and it is interesting to see how people stop and ask what engine I am running. smile.gif" border="0smile.gif" border="0

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Guest Skyking

Joe,even though I agree with you, what I think Mark is trying to say above is that with a 350 you can get any part any time at any parts store in the country. I think if you break down with a 455, parts are likely to be more scarce.

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Mark<P> You have a point but after attending many car shows I think I'll throw up if I see another small block chevy in a car ( my 65 GMC has one ). I would be more inclined to go with electric fuel pump and more modern carb on 60,000 mile original runs like new 322. 700r4 and open drive shaft rear end might be nice ? For now I'm still keeping it original and looking for source of quality parts. Thanmks for comments though.

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If you've been going through that many rebuilt fuel pumps, you might want to try a different brand of gas that has fewer additives (...and definately NO ethanol or MTB), or ask the rebuilder if they are using the appropriate material on the diaphram (either neoprene or nitril), or go to an electric fuel pump to either replace or use as a backup (but make sure its run in parallel and not in series with the original fuel pump)in case the old one farts out again.

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Thanks for replies. Buicknut I went to industrial rubber suplier and he gave me enough flat rubber that is oil diesel gas and additive resistant to make three of the seals I need and my Buick is back on the road. I would say if reproduction parts don't hold up to gas oil and freon used today they are inferior quality.

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Boy, there's a fine line between driveability and not going with the ho-hum SBC, isn't there?<BR>I'm going to build a decent 322 for my period-correct '54 when it's that car's turn.<BR>With a 4-inch bore, it's the same as a 350 Chevy, so I'll be running moly rings for long wear. Modern valves and valve springs, Comp Cams regrind and lifters, a Pertronix in the distributor, 401 1.6 rockers, and a later 401 timing chain cover for the later water pump and fuel pump, which are still available (not to mention the dress-up of aluminum the cover and water pump provide).<BR>If you're worried about breaking down, throw spares in the trunk--on these cars, a generator, fuel pump or water pump replacement is a simple deal--just like a small block Chevy. If something breaks you can't fix on the road, you're stranded, Chevy engine or Buick. The smart plan is to have parts on hand BEFORE you need them.<BR>My biggest concern is the trans--you can't hook a late model overdrive auto to the back of a nail head. I've got a bellhousing for a Ford T-85, which is a 3spd manual, but they were available with OD too!<BR>But try this one on for size (I just had an epiphany two days ago): some outfit makes a bellhousing that puts a Ford 5-speed manual behind a flat head Ford. Offy still makes adapeters for the Nail head to Ford trans. So I'm thinking you can stack adapters to get a Mustang 5-speed behind a Nailhead!<BR>There's also a "Flat-O-Matic" conversion that puts a C-4 or C-6 (not sure which) behind a Flathead. More potential!<BR>The small block Chevy is also the cheaper and easier solution, but Individuality is what this whole thing is about now, isn't it?<BR>Besides, which gets more attention at a car show? Ever hear anyone mention a small block Chevy when describing a car on the other side of the show field?<BR>-Brad

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