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TOP HELP PLEASE


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Everything pertaining to both tops is perfect...............

The tonneau works perfectly............Electrically AND Mechanically!!

EXCEPT............the pull down mechanism seems FROZEN in place.

Is this a common thing??? Maybe from lack of use????

The switch for the pull down makes no sound whatsoever. AND the Lug Wrench manual overide does nothing either. I have applied very little pressure to the manual operation since I am not sure is enough!!

My question is.........can I remove the motor and use the manual overide alone until I find a new motor or fix mine?????? And if so, what is the disassembly procedure (since I have no shop manual, HINT, HINT).

Presently the Hardtop is held in place with the front latches and the weight of the top is making a so-so seal in the rear.

BUT, I want to use the soft top so I can take advantage of those RARE Sunny Winter Days and go "TopLess". But when I put the soft top up and NOT being able to pull it down in the rear...........I have a 1 inch gap between the bottom of the top and the top of the tonneau cover. A rainstorm would be a BIG problem!!

HELP!!!!!!

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This may sound really strange, and you may well have already done this, but if not - try the switch in both directions, up and down.

When we first got our TC the hard top had supposedly never been off. I followed the directions in the manual to remove it, pressed the top of the "Top" button to raise the pull-down, and nothing happenned. I checked everything and assumed I had a pull-down motor problem. Just for the heck of it I pressed the lower part of the switch and, low and behold, the pull-down worked fine and snugged the hard-top down. For 15 years the original owner had driven the car without the top properly seated. Once recycled, the motor works perfectly. You just never know...

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I'll try that tomorrow, thanks.

Everything I have heard about the top mechanism is...........BE CAREFULL!! IT'S FRAGILE!! DON'T HOLD THE SWITCH TOO LONG!! YOU WILL BURN IT UP!!

I guess I am too concerned about doing something "Out of Sequence"!!

One thing I have learned IS THE OPPOSITE of what the original owner told me though..... He said to latch the front latches first and THEN use the pull down. I finally found a thread (I went all the way back to 2002) that said pull down the rear AND THEN latch the front!!! And the way I was told to do it is the MAIN reason for motor failure.

Anyway I need to get my next door neighbor to come over and help me remove the hardtop so I can play with the softtop and ............who knows, I might be in business with all this new information.

Thanks again-JD

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If it does turn out to be the pull down motor let me know I have a couple in a big 'going to Ebay soon' pile. I have waaay too much stuff collected over the years for four or five different Chrysler FWD models so I am going to actually sell some stuff on Ebay instead of just buying it <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> Just so you really check out all the switch/power to the switch etc possibilites, the last pull down motor on Ebay went to $331. before the close

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$330.00......................????????????

I understand the pull down motors are the same as on the Caddys,etc. I'm in the Autosalvage business and I think I will do some "Engineering" first.

Thanks for the offer though.

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I've found that the latching order doesn't really matter for the hard-top. Where it makes a big difference is with the soft-top. Dropping the pull-down before you latch the front hooks certainly saves wear and tear on the motor, and seems to make a better seal. Be prepared for a bit of a struggle to latch the front hooks though, particularly if its cold.

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First I checked to see if I had power at the connector. YES 12V present.

I then removed the assembly and took the motor off and reinstalled the assembly to see if it would work strictly manual. It worked BUT without the motor keeping tension on the latches, the rear would not stay latched. So I took the motor apart and lubed it. I then bench tested it and it works fine. No bad tooth problems either. Pulled the assembly again and reinstalled the motor...........didn't work.......back to "0"!!!!!!

THEN starting at the motor I checked for current through the relay on back....12V yes...NEG-NADA!!

Traced back all the way to switch and BINGO!!!!!!!! Removed switch and cleaned terminals..............TOP IS 100% OPERATIONAL!!!!!!

I should have started at the switch and worked that way. But having 12V at the plug I just assumed that the wiring was good to go!! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Good to see that you are not afraid to get your hands a little dirty <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

As with any 15+ year old car, you need to be willing to turn a wrench or have your own mechanic to do it for you.

Now if it would just stop raining here, I could get on with my too long list of fix-it projects.

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I was raised around cars and my blood type is 10W30!!

So I have always enjoyed tinkering. The reason for such a lengthly post was not only to explain how I got from point "A" to point "B", but also to answer that un-asked question someone might have had!!

The local weathermans DART hit in the "Partly Sunny" area of the board for tomorrow and the top will be down and I'll be CRUZIN"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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