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71 Riviera Dash Removal


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A lot of the instruments and such can be removed from the front. The polished metal or wood inserts hide screws that hold in the clock and other accessories. <P>I wouldn't remove my dash unless I absolutely had to. There are lots of screws that tap into plastic that can get stripped easily and cause rattles. JB weld works good for filling stripped holes, just retap them after filling them. When you put it back together their are some leaks on the AC ducts that you can fix to get more flow( a big one is near the base over the trans hump). You might also want to replace your vacuum door motors because they are really hard to get to with the dash in place. Make sure everything is solid and tight, be careful.<P>Good luck<BR>Tomsriv<BR>71 Riv.

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I believe your dash is fairly similar to my '73 225. Like Tom said, you do need to be careful. I've taken my dashpad off at least three times in the last two years, so I feel comfortable with it now. The biggest problem I had the first time was thinking I had undone all the fasteners when in fact I hadn't. First remove the trim panel under the steeringwheel, I think it has four screws. That will reveal a two screws that hold in the pad, one on the far left bottom and one on the far right bottom, below the tuning knob. You have four screws on the underside of the pad, above the wiper controls to above the clock and vent next to it. Now come the hidden buggers. Open the glove box and remove the liner. On the back side of the dash are I think two nuts that have to come off (1/2" socket I think). Now you have to disconnect the far right hand side duct hose. You could try to remove the vent from the dash, but it is near impossible to remove the three nuts that hold it in. To remove the hose, you need to twist it off, I forget which direction, but you should be able to figure it out by looking at the pitch of the internal spring in the hose material. The left passenger vent is attached via plastic duct work, sealed with a rubber gasket sure to falling apart, so be careful. Now the only thing left holding on the dashpad are two clips on the underside of the dash, windshield side, that clamp onto the dashframe. If you look through the glove box opening and up, you should be able to see it. The clip, if like mine will be coated in a black vinyl coating. If the dash has never been off before like when I did mine, this coating will be sealing the clip itself to where it clamps, so you might want to physically get you hand on it and try and pry it off, breaking the seal. Now you just have to carefully lift the pad up a bit and start pulling it toward yourself. It may take a while as you carefully pull, lift push back, pull again at a slightly different angle, etc. It will finally come out, but then you may feel it getting caught, that will be the speaker connection/wires running out of slack. Disconnect the speaker and your home free. Installing the dash can sometimes take longer in the step of getting it back on physically. It might first seem as though it won't physically fit, just keep trying different angles approaches and it will eventually go in. I now this sounds like nightmare, but it really isn't that bad, it just takes a bit of patience and a careful hand.

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  • 10 years later...

Here is some good info on removing a dash (-pad; needs to come off to get access to speedometer etc): http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?156250-68-69-70-Riviera-owners-I-need-your-help!

Make sure to first take of the speedo cable from the tranny (or CC unit) and the shift indicator from the column!!

Edited by 75RivGS (see edit history)
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