FireballV8 Posted April 24, 2002 Share Posted April 24, 2002 Does anyone have a PPG paint store they use in Nevada or Arizona. I need to buy some paint for my 1955.<BR>Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 24, 2002 Share Posted April 24, 2002 I don't know about the store location, however you can check their website and e-mail them if needed for a list.<P>About the acrylic enamel....I would not use that type of paint on your car. I am an Auto Body Technician and would suggest acylic urethane instead. The benefits are: the urethane is 75% more durable, it's easy to apply (like lacquer)plus tack dries faster, It's easier to care for...you don't even have to wax it, it doesn't fade, better chip resistance, higher& deeper gloss, and will last 10 times longer. If you have a metallic<BR>color(sparkles) you will have to use basecoat/clearcoat. If you have a solid color (black, white, yellow,etc. (non metallic) you can use single stage. My suggestion is DCC single stage with DCX-61 catalyst and 780 reducer or DBU basecoat with DRR1170 reducer and 2042 Clear with DCX-61 catalyst with 870 reducer for mettalic colors. These are all PPG paints. I hope this helped you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 2dr.ltd Posted April 25, 2002 Share Posted April 25, 2002 I second that!! I ignorantly used acrylic enamel on our LeSabre. Its soft, yes I used hardener. By paint standards its soft. Dulls really fast. Gets a foggy appearence. Real garbage. That urethane is hard and can be buffed beyond what old lacquer could but has awsome durability. Spend the extra, I dont think its that much more but the results from enamel are totally unsatisfactory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YellowLark Posted April 25, 2002 Share Posted April 25, 2002 Use a modern paint. My 1966 came with acrylic lacquer. Was kind of dull even when we brought it home from the showroom.<P>Now is painted base/clearcoat after a paint pro used a scan of the inside of my trunk to find a 1985 Subaru paint that was an exact match. Even critical show judges had not had a problem with the paint. And, the car is very shiney.<P>Do your self a favor - go with the urethane mentioned previously, or find a matching base/clearcoat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireballV8 Posted April 25, 2002 Author Share Posted April 25, 2002 Thanks for the tips. The car body was painted with PPG acrylic urethane, but the inner fenders and chassis were done in enamel. I agree that urethane is a lot better, although it is more expensive, I find it covers a lot more. I just need a pint more of enamel, so I can paint a couple of pieces so they will match. I've been told the urethane will not look the same. Is this true? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSMAG Posted April 27, 2002 Share Posted April 27, 2002 Scottsdale Paint (480) 946-9442 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickNut Posted April 28, 2002 Share Posted April 28, 2002 Anybody have experience painting with the new urethane paints and what precautions you have to take as to air breathers/masks ? Do you need one of those auxulary remote air supplies, or can you use just a very high quality mask ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSMAG Posted April 28, 2002 Share Posted April 28, 2002 You can just use a good quality mask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Skyking Posted April 28, 2002 Share Posted April 28, 2002 Also wear a long sleeve shirt. You don't want the vapors going into your skin. I painted my Skylark in base coat/clear coat, and the results are outstanding........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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