Trailer Brake Experience

[Guest BruceW]

My dad and I have a 16 foot trailer that I plan on using to tow the Model A when its too far to drive in a reasonable amount of time and dad will use it for his tractors. Dad went to the trailer supply store to pick up electric brake controllers for his van and my truck. The guy at the store told him that there are two types of electric brake controllers you can mount under the dash. One type needs to be leveled when it is mounted and the other does not need to be leveled. <BR>However, the guy said there was a potential problem with the brake controller unit that does not need to be leveled. He stated, if you are sitting a long time with the brake applied (as in traffic), that the pressure applied to the trailer brakes will incrementally increases over time... until the brakes have so much pressure that you may actually drag the wheels when you finally take off.<BR>Could this guy have been confused with hydraulic surge brakes? Does it sound like this guy knew what he was talking about with the increasing brake pressure? If so, which is the best type of electric brake controller to use? Any and all information on the subject is greatly appreciated.<P>Thanks.

[Guest]

I don't think the guy knows what he is talking about. Electric trailer brakes work by energizing electromanets to set the shoes against the drums. You can't build up pressure, as there is NO hydraulic pressure to the trailer brakes. Go to a NAPA or some<BR>similar auto supply store and get their advice. My experience says avoid Auto Zone for something like this. Trailer supply stores are often staffed by some relative of the owner who knows absolutely nothing about anything technical. Try again and better luck next time. HV

[Guest]

I do not believe the guy was correct in his statement. My experience on trailer brakes (which is fairly substantial) is that you shoudl buy a good unit that mounts level. Go to a RV supply store if there is one in your area since they have experience in the installation and operation. I good trailer brake shoudl be able to be purchased AND installed for around $150 and provide years of reliable service.

[Guest BruceW]

This may be a dumb question..but...<P>If the controller is an electrical unit, what is the importance/neccessity of having it mounted level?<P>Thanks

[Guest]

The controller on my Suburban is far from being level. It is mounted on the lower part of the dash about 30 degrees from vertical and has worked perfectly for 7 years and 90K miles of towing.<P>I too would like to know what level has to do with operation of an electrical unit. Even a unit mounted perfectly level at the time of installation would NOT be level going down a steep grade when you need the brakes the most. I think LEVEL is irrelevent. ~~ HV

[Guest]

It all depends on the unit your purchase - some are required to be mounted level because of the mechanism internal that actually regulates the electrical impulses sent to teh trailer brakes. As far as do they have to be level - not if the unit is not required to ne; however, I have experienced over the years taht the units that require level mounting seem to work better - in my humble opinion.<P>

[Guest]

There is an electronic brake control on the market that does not contain a pendilum.It has a manual control and the longer that you apply the brakes the harder it applys the brake.It has a adjustable rate at which the volts are applied to the brakes.It also has a max voltage control which you adjust to just short of lock-up.I didn't like the system and replaced it with a pendilum model.

[Guest]

oldmotorcycles & trainguy ~~ I learned something new today from both of you. Proves that you are never too old, I hope.<P>I now know that my unit must be a manual control so that is why it works as mounted. I didn't pick it, the guy who installed my first hitch did about 20 years ago and I have stayed with the same model ever since because for me at least it works GREAT. It works exactly as trainguy says and I love it.<P>I guess it really is, To Each His Own. Thanks for the enlightenment! ~~ HV

[Guest]

Scotyard. This D.F. forum is great.is it not? The open sharing of knowledge,across so large a country [actually the world] is awsume.Just think this was unheard of just a few years ago.

[Guest]

My final thoughts on trailer brake actuators.<P>With mine I have a rheostat [a manufactured product not a homemade gadget] mounted under the hood through which the current flows. That allows you to preset the amount of current which flows to the trailer brakes.<P>I normally have 6 settings I use before starting out:<BR>1. heavy trailer - heavy load<BR>2. heavy trailer - no load<BR>3. light trailer - loaded<BR>4. light trailer - no load<BR>5. open trailer with car<BR>6. open trailer empty<BR>It requires some advance thought but works great. Have used it for years. No more lock ups with an empty trailer or not enough brake with a heavily loaded one. HV<p>[This message has been edited by hvscotyard (edited 06-18-2000).]

[Guest]

If you've got a good one that works, TAKE IT OFF before selling the tow vehicle. One of mine is now in its third vehicle and works great. Maybe I am just a little frugal [read cheap] but I do not want to give up something that works. Besides I doubt that it adds to or reduces the selling price of the vehicle being sold. HV<P>I think THIS is my final comment, at least I'll try. H<p>[This message has been edited by hvscotyard (edited 06-18-2000).]

[Guest rcirilli]

I have always used the type that doesn't need leveling and I've never had a problem. I've heard that the type requiring leveling can require a lot more attention but that is hear say. Unfortunately I sound mine with my last Van and I will be facing the same questions sometime soon. Good luck!

[Guest BruceW]

Just a Thanks and an Update....<P>Thanks to all of the DF'ers that responded to this post when it was originally posted. The information was very much appreciated.<BR>As it turned out, dad purchased the electric brake controller that does not require leveling for both his van and our Blazer. The biggest problem seemed to be the initial adjustment of the brake pressure in the controller, but after driving the vehicle several miles, the brakes appeared to work better. Di and I just pulled the trailer with our 1931 Ford Deluxe Tudor on a 1,000+ mile trip to Wisconsin for the Wisconsin Rapids Model A Reunion. We traveled through mountains and flat land...sunny and rainy conditions...highway and town traffic and so far have had no problems. The biggest thing to remember was to occasionally release the brake and reapply to keep the wheels from locking up during slow rollling that required continued braking. However, this helps to keep from riding the brakes and burning them out anyway The trailer brakes release when the brake pedal is released and we have had no problems with locked brakes dragging the trailer. I'm not saying this type of controller is better than the other. Just that this controllers seems to have suited us so far for our purposes.<BR>We will be starting on the return trip in a few days. See you all when we get home!

[Guest]

On the subject of these electric brakes; I just towed my camp trailer, as I have many times with my 1965 Skylark, and the buggers didn't work! I left without a thought like I always do because they work so well. After having the little Skylark brakes cooking.... I went looking for the problem, I found it at the plug, after much checking and fixin. I made a test light out of a clearance light from the trailer (I was camping for goodness sake!) The one wire that goes to the trailer plug on the trailer side for the brakes was not making a good contact. It looked good but I removed the wire and cleaned it up, and that's all it took. Boy is it nice having that extra set of brakes! <P>------------------<BR>buickfam@aol.com<BR>Life long Buick Fan.<BR>1965 Skylark H/T<BR>1965 Gran Sport Convertible<BR>1948 Chevy Pickup with 401 Buick.