Guest Darv Hemann Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 I have a'35Dodge 5window coupe, stored inside, with an engine that ran last year, but would turn over, but not start this year. Short version-we replaced most electrical parts, cleaned starter, etc., but last week it would not turn over. No water in the oil, we soaked all cylinders with penetrating oil/diesel fuel, but no luck. The clutch is not stuck to the flywheel, but the flywheel will not move (either way) with a crowbar, even with the starter out. Any help would be appreciated <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />Darv Hemann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted October 21, 2004 Share Posted October 21, 2004 Wow...that's a strange one.You should probably pull the head to see what's up if it won't turn with a crow bar. Maybe the valve covers too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Arnett Posted October 21, 2004 Share Posted October 21, 2004 Did you try puting in gear and rocking the car. Normally I would say check for a stuck valve but this will not lock an engine.Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_woodwheels Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 I have 2 thoughts on your problem. First, did you use starter fluid in an unsucessful attempt to get the engine started? As important with this thought is did the engine set for a few months after the failed attempt? Starter fluid will sieze an engine up if it is not run under its own power especally if it sits for a long period of time. Second, with a 33-34 transmission it is possible to shift into 2 gears at the same time. This would happen with the engine off and the car stationary. This takes some forcing on a worn shift lever and is made easier to accomplish if the adjustment on the gear shift lever is very incorrect. This sounds impossible but I have personally experienced the phenomonin. The results is a locked up drive train that depressing the clutch will not relieve. In 35 the trans was greatly improved. Also the end of the shift lever needs to be badly worn to make this happen. If it is take it to a machine shop and have it built back up. Do you remember forcing the shift lever around the last tme you were in the car? Did you do any other work on the car between the time it last ran and the first time it would not turn over?I hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Darv Hemann Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 Thanks, and we might end up doing that, but now I am looking for a crank that fits the front of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Darv Hemann Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 Thanks for the reply and we did try that with no luck. Someone told me to look for a crank that fits the front of the engine, but I haven't found one yet. Maybe with somebody on the front and the crowbar on the flywheel we can get it unstuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Darv Hemann Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 Thanks for the advice. We DID use starter fluid several times over the last several months trying to get it started. I hope the combination of PB Blaster and diesel fuel in the cylinders will overcome that, but ....?Also the transmission appears to be shifting freely, but we will recheck that.We didn't due any work other than brake work from the time it last ran, and several months ago when it wouldn't start. I am now looking for a crank to fit the front of the engine, but would appreciate any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted October 30, 2004 Share Posted October 30, 2004 How about a big socket on an extension with a breaker bar for the large nut that surrounds the crank hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Darv Hemann Posted November 1, 2004 Share Posted November 1, 2004 Another good suggestion and we will try this one too. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted November 2, 2004 Share Posted November 2, 2004 Be careful that the rings aren't 'welded' to the cylinders with rust. If they are and you finally get it moving you will shatter the rings into small pieces. The shards will gouge the cylinder walls. This happened to me with a Honda motorcycle that I stored from '84 to '02. Both upper compression rings shattered on both cylinders. The upper rings are the ones nearest the atmosphere and moisture. I ran the engine after getting it unstuck and promptly scratched the cylinder walls. When I couldn't get any good compression readings I took it apart and finally found the mess. Be careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Darv Hemann Posted November 2, 2004 Share Posted November 2, 2004 Thanks for the heads-up. I am trying to be cautious. It looks like a tear-down is coming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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