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Auburn chassis & engine no's


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Here is what information I have. This comes from the Chilton Automotive Mulit-Guide 1931. I don't have any information after that. I am a Studebaker guy. Here it is:<BR>Year Model Serial Number<BR>1928 76 2878301 upward<BR>1928 88 2866901 upward<BR>1928 115 2848001 upward<BR>Number stamped on serial name plate on dash.<BR>1929 120 2948001 and up<BR>1929 8-90 2948001 and up<BR>1929 6-90 2848001 and up<BR>1930 6-85 1001 and up<BR>1930 8-95 1001 and up<BR>1931 8-98 1001 and up<BR>Number stamped on plate under front floor mat at R. H. door.<P>This is how it is presented in the Chilton book. Don't know how Auburn used the same starting serial number series for diffrent models and diffrent years (example 1930 & 1931). Maybe someone else can shed more light on the subject.<P><BR>

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  • 13 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Reason I'm wondering about the id tags location is there isn't one. Looks like it fell off. I checked the frame also and that number was rusted off so I have nothing. Does anyone know where I can get a tag off a 28-30 auburn? I'll need one for it. Any old one would be fine.

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I can't help with a 28-30 Auburn, but in 1931 and 1932 there is a number stamped right into the frame (no tag) on the right front. You could try posting on the club website http://www.acdclub.org/ to see if the tag is the same as a 1931 and 1932. If it is they are available from the factory and a club member sells nice reproduction tags much cheaper than those on Ebay.

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I can't help with a 28-30 Auburn, but in 1931 and 1932 there is a number stamped right into the frame (no tag) on the right front. You could try posting on the club website http://www.acdclub.org/ to see if the tag is the same as a 1931 and 1932. If it is they are available from the factory and a club member sells nice reproduction tags much cheaper than those on Ebay.

What at year do u have? Is it possible u could take a photo of your stamp and send it to me??

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I believe this is the correct plate for a 1931-1932 Auburn;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auburn-Serial-Plate-/351198741407?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51c513839f&vxp=mtr

I'm NOT recommending you buy this plate because;

1- I'm not sure if it is correct for your car

2- They can be had much cheaper

I can try and get a picture of my frame number tomorrow. Btw mine is a 1932.

Carl

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I believe this is the correct plate for a 1931-1932 Auburn;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auburn-Serial-Plate-/351198741407?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51c513839f&vxp=mtr

I'm NOT recommending you buy this plate because;

1- I'm not sure if it is correct for your car

2- They can be had much cheaper

I can try and get a picture of my frame number tomorrow. Btw mine is a 1932.

Carl

Thanks carl. Sure appreciate your help

i have the new plate. What I need is a plate that is all filled out so I get all the spacing exact. That's why is like a photo of your tag if possible. Then I can see if I need spacing between certain letters or didgets. Would u be so kind to snap me a close up photo of yours ? Thanks in advance.

If u need a part for yours let me know. I've got some parts maybe I can help u back

mel

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Curt I agree whole heartily. Someone else lists them for $48 and a club member sells them for less than that. I was just posting that for the picture.

Sorry I cannot post a picture of my data plate as it disappeared years ago. Another reason to if not join the ACD Club (which is a great club and well worth the dues) to ask your question on the ACD website as there were different style data plates and I'm not sure which one would be correct for your car.

I have attached a picture of where the frame number was stamped on my 1932 which is behind the passenger front tire. It was the club certification team that located it and scratched off the paint so they could read it.

post-33892-143142793504_thumb.jpg

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Curt I agree whole heartily. Someone else lists them for $48 and a club member sells them for less than that. I was just posting that for the picture. Sorry I cannot post a picture of my data plate as it disappeared years ago. Another reason to if not join the ACD Club (which is a great club and well worth the dues) to ask your question on the ACD website as there were different style data plates and I'm not sure which one would be correct for your car. I have attached a picture of where the frame number was stamped on my 1932 which is behind the passenger front tire. It was the club certification team that located it and scratched off the paint so they could read it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]276871[/ATTACH][/QUOTggE]i thanks for the message and photo. I appeared it. I have the new data tag, what I need is a photo of a tag that's filled out so I can get the spacing correct so it's perfect. What are the first four didgets of the frame no. in the photo. Then maybe I can figure out what year mine is. i think mine is 32 but can't b sure cause the first four numbers or letters are rusted so bad I can't make them out
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Sorry I don't feel comfortable putting my frame number on the internet.

I thought you originally thought it was a 1928-1930? Perhaps you should post some pictures so we could help identify the year.

Carl

Oh, ok, I understand that Carl. I thought it was a 28 but a gentleman told me the dash was not 28 but in the low 30s. As far as photos, it's in a million pieces. Can tell me the first 3 didgets of a 32?

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I really don't think a frame number is going to help in identifying the year of your car. Most of the original records were disposed of many years ago and I don't know of any source that lists frame numbers for Auburn by year. Do you know of a source that can identify Auburns by frame number?

Perhaps you would be better off narrowing the search by engine. A 1931-1933 engine has a number stamped on the block just below the head on the drivers side beneath the number one cylinder.

How about a picture of the dash?

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The ACD Club has certified many Auburns of the 28-30 era. Frame numbers were stamped sequentially. The club has records. You do not want to stamp a number willy-nilly, someone else may have it.

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Aren't frame and serial numbers supposed to match? If so the info in #2 should help. I have Blue books and NADA books that have them in it as well. If the two match then you should be able to get a year of a frame even if swapped by number brackets.

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A 1937 Red Book that I have also says the Serial Number Plate should be on the toeboard for 1928-1929. Apparently 1928 and 1929 numbers start off with the year number.

Year..Model..Number Range

1928..6-66 2874801-2878300

1928..8-77 2864732-2866900

1928..8-88 2847536-2848000

1928.....76 2878301-2948000

1928.....88 2866901-2948000

1928....115 2848001-2948000

1929.....76 2948001-2982400

1929.....88 2948001-2973000

1929....115 2948001-2950500

1929..6-80 2982401- and up

1929..8-90 2973001- and up

1929...120 2950501- and up

To add... the serial numbers for various models start with the following prefixes

The 1930 models start with 685, 895, 125

The 1931 models start with 898

The 1932 models start with 8100, 12160

The 1933 models start with 8101, 12161, 8-105, 12-165

The 1934 models start with 652, 850

The 1935 models start with 851, 653

The 1936 models start with 654, 852

Edited by X-Frame (see edit history)
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A 1937 Red Book that I have also says the Serial Number Plate should be on the toeboard for 1928-1929. Apparently 1928 and 1929 numbers start off with the year number.

Year..Model..Number Range

1928..6-66 2874801-2878300

1928..8-77 2864732-2866900

1928..8-88 2847536-2848000

1928.....76 2878301-2948000

1928.....88 2866901-2948000

1928....115 2848001-2948000

1929.....76 2948001-2982400

1929.....88 2948001-2973000

1929....115 2948001-2950500

1929..6-80 2982401- and up

1929..8-90 2973001- and up

1929...120 2950501- and up

To add... the serial numbers for various models start with the following prefixes

The 1930 models start with 685, 895, 125

The 1931 models start with 898

The 1932 models start with 8100, 12160

The 1933 models start with 8101, 12161, 8-105, 12-165

The 1934 models start with 652, 850

The 1935 models start with 851, 653

The 1936 models start with 654, 852

ok, I looked very close on my frame and I found what appears to be 8100 There are some more after that but I just can't make out any more at all. The rust is just too deep. It looks like these are the first numbers. So, assuming it is would u assume I have a 32? If so, how many more didgets would follow and aren't there some letters

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So if mine starts with 8100, and it looks like it does, and it's a 6 cyl, then there should be just four numbers? then 1 letter or 2??

I

A 1937 Red Book that I have also says the Serial Number Plate should be on the toeboard for 1928-1929. Apparently 1928 and 1929 numbers start off with the year number.

Year..Model..Number Range

1928..6-66 2874801-2878300

1928..8-77 2864732-2866900

1928..8-88 2847536-2848000

1928.....76 2878301-2948000

1928.....88 2866901-2948000

1928....115 2848001-2948000

1929.....76 2948001-2982400

1929.....88 2948001-2973000

1929....115 2948001-2950500

1929..6-80 2982401- and up

1929..8-90 2973001- and up

1929...120 2950501- and up

To add... the serial numbers for various models start with the following prefixes

The 1930 models start with 685, 895, 125

The 1931 models start with 898

The 1932 models start with 8100, 12160

The 1933 models start with 8101, 12161, 8-105, 12-165

The 1934 models start with 652, 850

The 1935 models start with 851, 653

The 1936 models start with 654, 852

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Correct, no 6-cylinder cars in 1932. there was a base eight, custom eight, and the larger models. Remember these are in-line eights. Any pictures of the engine to post?

But if a 1932 there should be one letter at the end of the serial number representing the model-body style. I will check again when I get home and post an example.

Eric

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It is my opinion that Auburn used the frame number + 1000 as the serial number. The model number is just that, not a part of the s/n. The tags in this pix are all new style. The old style tags have all of the fields the same size.

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The way the book lists them is Model number with Serial Number then body letter. Again, I am not home to check the book but your examples above - the top one came off a 1935 since the model is 653 - would read like: 653-5620A. The one below is from a 1936 for model 852 and would read 852-3612I (not sure where the E comes in but will also check).

Eric

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It is my opinion that Auburn used the frame number + 1000 as the serial number. The model number is just that, not a part of the s/n. The tags in this pix are all new style. The old style tags have all of the fields the same size.

So on this I'd tag, what year and what cab is this for?

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christineman... did you intend to post a tag? It doesn't show here. But the ones above - the 1935 is a Six Cylinder 5-passsenger Sedan while the 1936 that the tag shows an extra number as 1 instead of the letter I - the E is a Eight Cylinder Supercharged Speedster Torpedo (Boattail).

Edited by X-Frame (see edit history)
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christineman... did you intend to post a tag? It doesn't show here. But the ones above - the 1935 is a Six Cylinder 5-passsenger Sedan while the 1936 that the tag shows an extra number as 1 instead of the letter I - the E is a Eight Cylinder Supercharged Speedster Torpedo (Boattail).

Well, here's where I'm at, I got this auburn and its a 6 cyl and a sedan. I think It may have been a straight 8 years ago. And of course the id tag fell off years ago. So, all I have to go on is on the frame number. I can only make out the first 4 didgets which is 8100. So I have to come up with the rest of the numbers. So what I need to know is how many more numbers I need toake a id number. Any ideas would b appreciated

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christineman... did you intend to post a tag? It doesn't show here. But the ones above - the 1935 is a Six Cylinder 5-passsenger Sedan while the 1936 that the tag shows an extra number as 1 instead of the letter I - the E is a Eight Cylinder Supercharged Speedster Torpedo (Boattail).

The suffix letters indicate the body style. A= Sedan B=Brougham C= Touring E= speedster F= Cabriolet G= Victoria H= Phaeton K= 7 Passenger sedan L= Chassis M= Coupe.

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I figured that is what you are trying to do but the people at ACD may have something to say about that? And may be illegal in some sates? But in any event, you can find examples of numbers for cars sold at big auctions like this 1932 V12 Boattail that sold for $275k. Here are its numbers:

Vin: 12160A1945E

Chassis No. 1655

Engine No. BB1521

You can see that the chassis only had 4 digits so your 1800 is probably all there is and may be a coincidence that it matches a 1932 model number. We will need to see more to zero in. Do you have a engine number plate? Obviously you haven't been able to find the Serial Number ID plate anywhere on the floorboards?

Eric

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I figured that is what you are trying to do but the people at ACD may have something to say about that? And may be illegal in some sates? But in any event, you can find examples of numbers for cars sold at big auctions like this 1932 V12 Boattail that sold for $275k. Here are its numbers:

Vin: 12160A1945E

Chassis No. 1655

Engine No. BB1521

You can see that the chassis only had 4 digits so your 1800 is probably all there is and may be a coincidence that it matches a 1932 model number. We will need to see more to zero in. Do you have a engine number plate? Obviously you haven't been able to find the Serial Number ID plate anywhere on the floorboards?

Eric

I I just figured it's just a number since I'm street roding it. Someone many years ago cut the car in half to make a pickup out of it so it is one of those that was so bad it couldn't b restored. So I'm trying to make something out of really nothing. If I can figure out how, I'll post a photo of it. Kind of a cute pickup it makes. Anyway that's why I'm trying to get some kind of number. So if it starts out with 8100, and A for a sedan, what else will I need?

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Ahhh... it probably doesn't really matter then since you are not restoring it for judging and earning points. But just the same, you need to check the laws for your state. If all you really have is the frame and/or part of the body "together" you may need to do a search anyway so you don't randomly by chance duplicate someone else's numbers who have a registered car they spent countless hours and a fortune restoring. In some states they may only register it as a modified automobile or homemade or generate a number for you? I would try and contact the ACD group and ask if there is another way of tracing or cross referencing the frame? It would help a lot if you had any part of that body tag on the floorboard. But since you don't, how about some pictures of the body (even altered) which may be able to give us a clue at least to help you zero in on year.

Edited by X-Frame (see edit history)
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Ahhh... it probably doesn't really matter then since you are not restoring it for judging and earning points. But just the same, you need to check the laws for your state. If all you really have is the frame and/or part of the body "together" you may need to do a search anyway so you don't randomly by chance duplicate someone else's numbers who have a registered car they spent countless hours and a fortune restoring. In some states they may only register it as a modified automobile or homemade or generate a number for you? I would try and contact the ACD group and ask if there is another way of tracing or cross referencing the frame? It would help a lot if you had any part of that body tag on the floorboard. But since you don't, how about some pictures of the body (even altered) which may be able to give us a clue at least to help you zero in on year.

U guys have been very helpful with info and advice and I want to say thanks. It's really appreciated it. I'd like to download a photo of this project but I don't know how. Any advice on that?

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