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Overheating.. could it be the head gasket


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Does anyone remember an article on head gaskets in the club magazine, which talked about different types of gaskets and the different size openings and the effect on overheating? I just changed gaskets and used some older Victor asbestos type. I am experiencing an overheating problem all of a sudden. I can't find the article, and was wondering if someone could give a thumbnail dissertation on the details of the article.

Thanks, RB

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Cant find the article but the new head gaskets are made by felpro and you should be able to order them from your nearest parts dealer that handles felpro products. I do remember the article saying the water jacket holes were larger on the new gaskets and they did make an improvment in the cooling.

Jake Fleming should have the part#.

Good Luck

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  • 3 weeks later...

I hate to say I have misplaced Rick's information, it must have got deleted by mistake, or is hiding in some cranny of my overloaded computer, maybe someone else has heard of him and has the info, sorry, Rolf

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A good friend has prompted me to my error that it isn't Rick on the waterpumps, it is Skip, here is the data, "I will do 10 or 12 sets at the same price as the Ford pumps. That is $200 per set plus S&H $15.00 for a total of

$215.00. I may have to increase them later as the cost and labor is more than the Ford types. Once the 10 or 12 people see how well they work word of mouth does the rest as far as repeat orders. This is how it worked with the Ford pumps. I have all the parts, worked out all the problems and they perform slightly better than expected which is always a good feeling. Every pump is tested on a machine and the pair are matched in output flow so there is no doubt how each set will work when shipped. I am ready to take orders and they will be returned in a week to 10 days from when I receive them. Thanks, Skip" skip@fordsrus.com

All's well that ends, Rolf

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More details on Skip's water pumps, Subject: V-12 WATER PUMPS

Posted by GM on Jan-23-04 at 04:01PM

Skip is now rebuilding the V-12 pumps with many improvements. He is installing the new turbine impeller for improved water flow that results in better cooling, stainless steel shaft, modern seal and an addition seal in the rear of the bearing to protect it from water damage. We completed a set for my 47 Continental coupe late yesterday and they came out really good. They will go on the water pump test machine Monday to check for water flow and leaks under pressure. We did an old pump I had laying around the shop last week and worked out all the details and tested it so we know what the results will be. Following testing install it on the engine and road test. A lot of people have inquired over the last year about him doing the Lincoln pumps but he was not ready. It takes a lot of tooling and fixtures to rework the pumps to a uniform consistant quality product. He now has all the tooling and parts and is ready to go. These will solve most of the cooling problems as his V-8 pumps have on those models. Contact Skip for info. skip@fordsrus.com G.M.

===========================================================================

Message: #1

Subject: RE: V-12 WATER PUMPS

Posted by GM on Jan-30-04 at 01:52PM

In response to message #0

We ran the V/12 yesterday with the modified pumps. The radiator looked dirty looking down through the neck so we put in a large bottle of Prestone flush and a cup or more of Simple Green and ran it for an hour at a fast idle which ran at 195-200, drained it and flushed with fresh water. We then added 2 gallons of Texaco long life anti-freeze, 2 bottles of purple ice, a bottle of Barrs leak and a bottle of water pump lubricant topped of with water.This is the mixture I put in all my cars. After 15 minutes it went up to 175-180, stayed there for 15 or 20 minutes and slowly started to drop. We left it run at a fairly fast idle for several hours with a window type box fan in front of the grill. Out side temperaure was about 75 or a little higher and the car was parked in the garage. After about 2 hours the temperature was at 145 degrees on the cylinder heads just below the spark plug recess. All cylinders were within 2 or 3 degrees of each other. There were no thermoststs or any resrictors to reduce the water flow. Both pumps produces 110 gallons fo water in 5 minutes being perfectly matched. This contributes to the even heat pattern on both sides. This car prior to the change would run very high in temperature when driven and would boil over if left at idle for any lenth of time. G.M.

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V12, I had Skip do the water pumps for my V12, ran in the shop for over 30 minutes without a fan blowing air through the radiator and never got over 175 degrees at the water necks on the heads, sitting still in the shop ambient temp over 85 degrees. Once it started to go over mid way on the water temp gauge (about 45 minutes), put a fan in front of radiator and temp lowered from 190 to 175. Haven't had it out on the road yet but that would be better yet I would think. Very clean nice job by Skip, looks like half again the pitch and displacemant on the impellers and one less thing to use oil squirt can on (new seals).

Dave

temps taken with Raytek infared thermometer, great tool for this hobby, how hot is the head, the water at the bottom of the radiator, the top,at the thermostat, each cylinder temp to determine firing - great toy, keep you occupied for a long time. Also can take temp of your forhead after smacking a knuckle! grin.gif

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