Has anyone ever replaced steel fuel lines?

[Guest]

I noticed that my fuel lines are rotted and I want to replace them myself. Has anyone ever attempted to replace the steel fuel lines? And if so where do you go to buy it do they sell kits? Where do you start and how do you go about doing it? I know many metal companies I can buy the steel tubing from but I know they need to be able to withstand a certain psi. Any help would be great thanks?

[BqUICK]

Buick Girl,

Option 1, the Faithful Pursuit, Electra GSX Road Racer has had all of its steel fuel lines lines replaced in favor of #8 braided stainless steel outer shell and resistant polymer core with NPT fittings. That is the most robust option and perhaps the most expensive.

Option 2, you may want to go with the stock replacement however. My suggestion is to make contacts within the Riviera Club (on the web) and see who knows what sources there are for OEM line dimensions, NOS parts, and installation instuctions.

Option 3, you can also go to NAPA with dimensions from your old lines and have them select for you the individual lines that can be spliced together to give you very close to original.

If your Riviera is functioning fairly well and ther are no leaks, then your lines are not rotted through . You should be careful however and replace any line that you suspect is at risk . The stakes are too high .

God Speed ,

[Guest]

Hi BqUICK

When talking about the #8 braided stainless steel, how expensive is it? I am willing to put money into my car since it has a lot of sentimental value. I'm eventually looking to do a total overhaul, but I need to do it little by little. As the money becomes available. Is it cheaper to buy the fuel line in full lengths and use a tubing bender to customize them? Where did you go to get your fuel lines? My "Rivy" is not running very well recently so that is why I am trying to eliminate as many problems as possible. Replacing the fuel lines is a task that I would eventually have to tackle and I'd rather do it before they become a real problem, like you said "the stakes are too high".

[Pontiac59]

Someone replaced the lines in my Skylark with rubber fuel line almost from front to rear, except for a couple sections of steel. They just kind of dangle, I will probably put some zip ties through the floor when it warms up - it's a beater and they claim there's nothing to mount them to, NYS wont let you put screws through the floorboard or some crazy thing even though thats how the factory mounted them, just those spots have rusted out.

Anyways I'm sure they sell gas line just like brake line, in lengths with couplings and you just shape it with a tubing bender. Never bought one, although I've had a couple now with the rubber. Seems like some late model cars use the rubber as OEM, it's rated for the higher PSI a fuel injected car runs.

[86 2dr.ltd]

Usually the lines go bad over top of the tank and up around the rear tire first. I believe on your Riv. the fuel filter is up under the front of floor pan. Im not sure how or where the lines separate between tank and filter. Problem is the O ring style flare GM uses cant be duplicated until you own something like inlinetubes $425.00 flaring tool. http://inlinetube.com/ Its TLF04. They may be available cheaper somewhere else, this is the first I've seen that can do the crunched flare that those O ring fittings have. This tool does much more aswell and Im dreaming of buying one maybe this year.

You should be able to get the sending unit from GM or aftermarket but they are expensive. Its all thats in the tank (except the pump)over the top of the tank , then probably flexable hoses to a union somewhere in front of the rear wheel. Its possible this will be all you need for awhile. I woulnt replace any of it until

A - you need to drop the tank to do pump and everything looks like its on its last legs, including the tank

B - because they have sprung a leak, or

C - if something happens like did to my Regal. Like I said I've never heard of anyone elses lines breaking up on the inside.

There is other ways to do repairs using short aprox. 12" lenghts of steel line (stubs) that has the "o ring" style flare. Then some high pressure injection hose for the pressureized feed line and double clamp it to the stubs. I put a slight flare on the end to help hold the hose when I did my LeSabre. But i only used about 4" of the stub. Full lenght they might come with the common ball kinda of flare common for joining hose to tubing.

Other guys have used compression fitting to make a good union between existing good enough fuel line and new replacement piece.

Are entire new lines available from GM ? I dont know but I doubt it. Just the sending unit section I mentioned earlier. Call and ask anyhow. Usually shops fabricate their own when hired to do the job. Very expensive to have a shop do brake and fuel lines. Its a very crumby job and no one gets excited about doing it. Without a lift its a real pain.

My advise ? Dont go throwing alot of parts at that Riv to figure out why its not running right. Get it analyzed and put the right part in it. So many people just start replacing every piece and have many many hundreds into them before they get to the bottom of it. Then something else expensive pops up and the car has drained them. Next thing you know they hate their car. A tank, straps, sending unit, pump and line repair will add up to over 400 easily doing it yourself. Pay a shop to do it and you'll be over 1000.00 and you still havent done the brake lines. Very important to be practical when repairing old car. Spend to much on the wrong thing and another expensive repair pops up you cant afford to fix it.

[BqUICK]

Buick Girl,

If I remember correctly I paid about $100 for 20' of braided stainless line. In my setup there were a lot of expensive Russel AN fittings applied to make it really flow properly. New JAZ 32 Gallon Fuel Cell, Holly Fuel Pump, Regulator, etc, etc. It was not really easy. I had racer fabricator Dave Machuga with 30 years of experience to make it look easy.

I liked what the previous poster said, basically find out what's wrong and address the main issues. Also, if you have a "dream" for this car and nothing on God's green Earth can dissuade you... then YOU GO GIRL!

Find drag racers, circle trackers, hot rodders near you and ask them to show you how its done . Join your local Riviera, GS, or Buick Club Chapter and get involved. Apply your skills and help the local outfit with organization, writing, etc. and in return you will learn all the ways you can build your car without spending a fortune. (Never pay full price unless you have to! )

May God Speed you on your way in a Buick...

[Guest]

BqUICK,

Yeah I don't think anyone in this universe could get me to change my mind about investing all my money into my "Rivy". As you notice I said "investing" cause to me I don't see it as dumping my money. My fiance is a drag racer and he's always telling me to get rid of my car and buy a new car out of a dealership but then again he's a Honda driver. I want to feel the satisfaction of looking at my car and knowing I put my heart and soul into it. It's easy for someone to buy a new car out of a dealer and put some high tech stuff on it all brand new. I guess I'm looking for a different type of satisfaction. I actually faxed over my application to the "Riviera Owners Association" today. Thanks for the support!

[Turbo Loyd]

[color:\\"blue\\"]

The following site is a great place to get brake and fuel lines, but unfortunately they do not provide tubing for Rivs in the 80s.

Classic Tube

Have installed stainless brake lines in the 70 GS and the fitment was perfect, and the set complete. Have stainless steel fuel lines (complete with return and vapor lines) for the 86 GN, but have not installed them yet. Installation is very straight forward.

In looking over Classic Tube's website they indicate the following:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"If you do not see your application, it's a simple as sending us your original lines for custom duplication, or you can purchase straight length and "do-it-yourself."

</div></div>

[Guest]

Thanks for the web site info, I looked on it but like you said they don't make anything for my models year.

[Guest elk93001]

This is kind of a "left field" idea, but before you take out the brake and fuel lines, see if a local junkyard may have a Riv of that vintage, pull the lines you need and use them as a template. The junkyard near me, usually pulls the tanks out before stocking the car. Then you can either make them using the junkyard ones as a template or you can mail them in a bicycle box to one of the tubing makers that advertise in Hemmings (inline tube and classic tube.)

[2seater]

Oddly enough, I saw a post recently on the LeSabre.net that mentioned his fuel lines had clogged with crud. If this the case in your situation with the stalling, it would be worth looking into. The system is under 40 psi or more of pressure, and any sort of perforation of the lines should show up as a definite leak or at least a strong fuel smell. You really don't need the large 1/2" hoses to supply enough fuel to your engine, the stock size is plenty adequate, as long as they are clean inside. The simplest way to check for the problem would be to disconnect the lines at each end and try a compressed air blower through the line in the normal direction of flow. Be carefull as it will spray residual fuel from the tube. There should be three lines, pressure, return and one to the charcoal canister.

[Guest]

Does anyone know what the stock OD for the fuel lines is? Is it 3/8"? I have no idea and I'm going in an hour or so to buy the tubing.If anyone knows please let me know!!