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My v12 leaks oil out the drain hole under the flywheel ,I have replaced the

oilpan gaskets two times, but it still leaks just sitting any help would be nice.

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Hi Steve, a common and aggravating problem on V-12's. Ford's "better idea" here was to use a "slinger" type arrangement on the rear main oil seal, and when the bearings are new, the system works pretty well, as the engine wears, it will develop "end play", where actual movement occurs back and forth of the crankshaft in the main bearings, and this causes the slinger to no longer work, the only cure is to replace the main bearing that has the thrust surface on it, and that will stop the end play and thus the oil leak, I believe the troublesome bearing is the next to last one from the rear, but check with someone more experienced than me to be sure, good luck, Rolf

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Guest imported_V12Bill

Steve, As Rolf states, the leak is in the sealing system that was chosen by the Ford engineers. Replacing the pan gaskets will not solve your problem. A rope seal is available ( I think Earle Brown and/or Alan Wheilahan)but the crankshaft has to be removed to grind off the slingers.

I have rebuilt two engines , one with the rope seal and one without, and they both leak oil at the rear main although the rope seal does not leak as much. The cotter pin in the rear of the pan is where you will see the oil spill out. That pin is there to keep the hole from plugging up with dirt, so don't remove it.

Rolf the rear bearing ( #4 )is also the thrust bearing.

Bill

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Bill and Rolf, thanks for the info, even if it was not what I wanted to hear

I justed finished putting the motor back together, it starts easy but runs

rough at idle speed, I hate to pull the motor again. but what choise do I have

I can't live with and oil leak.

My car was black , its now Lincoln maroon, any advise about what to do with the

interior?

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Hey Steve, 98% of rough running is distributor, and we in this day and age are indeed fortunate to have the all-time distributor wizard in our very midst, I hope you are a subscriber to TWOTZ, he is plainly listed, Jake Fleming in Dallas texas, will synch your distributor, rebuild your coil, and have you ticking them off at 300RPM, and yet have smooth and powerful acceleration, if only all V-12 problems were so simple, be well, Rolf

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I have a 1946 four door sedan, it was my wife grandfathers car,it

sat in a barn from about 1952 to 1999 then it was moved to my garage

when my mother-n-law moved in. Two cylinders on the drivers side froze up

I stripped the car down, it was black, but is now Lincoln maroon it's an ok

paint job but not show quality. The seats are so faded I can not say what color

they where.Tan checks and maroon trim? I am not sure if I should duplicate the original interior or just go with all grey I plan to drive this car and enjoy it. It is not going to be a TRAILER QUEEN. Any advise is welcome

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Rolf, I was heading in that direction. I have a rebuilt coil, I

think it came from Earl Brown, It had two coils mounted in the noise

and wire ran to what was left of the original coil,I had the distribitor

out it seems kind of sloppy and I can see you need to have experience

setting the gap and time and advance. How can I get in touch with

Jake Flemming

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The first thing is to join the LZ Owners club, see Bob Mead, then you will get the club magazine bi monthly, called "The Way Of The Zephyr", which has Jake, and many other vendors listed in their classified section, I can't really see how anyone with a non-converted Zephyr, Lincoln or Continental can do without it, pressed for time right now, so can not provide Jakes address and phone # in Dallas, but rest assured he is there, thank God, Rolf

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Steve, go to the top of this page, click on LZOC club which takes you to the home page for this club, click on "sources", Jake is listed there with address and phone number. Just got my dist and coil back from him this last week, great transaction, don't have motor running again yet(nothing to do with dist, just rebuilding the fuel pump, carb., sending out water pumps to Skip.....) but I am quite sure it is a great job. Jake says he is out of condensers right now, Earl Brown for original housing type condensers or NAPA part# IH-200.

Dave p.s. welcome and have fun with your driver.

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48lccoupe, thanks for the info,I wish to get the engine running

well so I can put the fenders on,I spent last summer sandblasting

the underside, I painted the frame black and the rest body color

then I got tintable truck bed liner and sprayed the underside it looks

real nice. I was able to drive around the block one time before it got

too cold to work out in the garage,soon it will be spring and I can begin

again,when I get the fenders on I will post a picture.

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