Bucent98 Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 Have a '98 Century with only 36K miles. But I assume their all city miles, at least since I bought the car in September 2002. Even the manual doesn't mention a scheduled maintenance time table for brakes. I know different factors come into play. They seem fine for now and I know about the squeeling brake indicator sound, but does anyone here have any experience in the brake area. Discs and pads both. How many miles roughly? Could I be getting close to that point? Thanks for suggestions, ideas on that. Bucent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSTURBO Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 I am not sure about your Century but My Park Ave has 90000 miles and I turned the front rotors & left the pads alone because they were fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted February 29, 2004 Share Posted February 29, 2004 Brake lining life is highly variable and would not be in the factory maintenance schedule, other than periodic inspections. Has more to do with driving and driving style than anything else (city vs. highway, easy vs. aggressive). One thing many dont' also put in the mix too, with front wheel drive cars, is that one of the first things that happens when the traction control (if equipped) does is apply the brakes to the spinning wheel. Hence, if you try to lay rubber with the traction control on, it's the brakes that automatically apply to stop the spin, not just intervention into the engine's power output by the computer, and front brake lining life can be affected as a result. On rear wheel drive cars, it'd be applying the rear brakes. End result, one system's putting power out and the other one is trying to better control it with brake intervention.Also, don't rely solely on the brake pad wear indicators to signal the need for brakes. Sometimes they break off! Plus, they are usually on just one of the pads too (sometimes, if the caliper does not move freely on its mounting bolts, one pad can be worn to the metal with the other pad still having most of its original lining left). Checking the remaining lining left when you do the periodic tire rotations/balance is the best way to make sure you don't let things go too far.Enjoy!NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucent98 Posted February 29, 2004 Author Share Posted February 29, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am not sure about your Century but My Park Ave has 90000 miles and I turned the front rotors & left the pads alone because they were fine. </div></div>Well, I'm amazed IF they are you're original pads. That would fit me to a tee to get half that. Financially speaking I would benefit to make it another year or so. And by the way, I only drive about 8-10K year, but it is city miles. I'm 46 and drive average to above in agressiveness if that counts. I really hope to extend life past 45K. Then I'll be ready to replace if necessary. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucent98 Posted February 29, 2004 Author Share Posted February 29, 2004 NTX5427, Thanks for response. I wish I had the 240HP 3.8, but do not. Sport is more my style, but I settled for a smooth crusier. I'm happy, but that mile wide 2nd gear does nothing for passing. But again it's only a Century. I'm happy with it so far. My first Buick. Thanks for the brake tips. Like I told the other poster, I hope to make it another 8-10K miles. My car is 6 years old and needs a battery anytime now, though still ok there. I have radiator to flush which I read they recommend every 6 years from last service. I don't think it's ever been serviced. I bought the car in Sept. 2002 with 24K. So I guess there is no rush for the radiator. I can wait some. I also just had the serpentine belt replaced. It was showing signs of wear. More age than anything. Rot I would call it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 1, 2004 Share Posted March 1, 2004 Just do what I do. Don't step on the brakes? (lol)My 93 Regal went over 50 K on the brakes, except the rear caliper on the passenger side froze up. This is a bigger concern for 89 to 96 cars and I am unsure about the 98 Century. I just wash my wheels as frequently as possible and I got a brush that fits into those small slots in the mag wheels to try and get some soapy water into the calipers. Since my first frozen caliper at 50K, we have put another 80K on the car on the original three calipers. Meanwhile, the parking brake cable to the right rear pass side broke ;ast summer, but it was easy to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUICK RACER Posted March 1, 2004 Share Posted March 1, 2004 In most cases, unless you are abusive brake person, or the car sits for long periods of time without being driven, you should get at least 60k miles out of the brakes or more! This is what I have heard or seen. Same goes for tires usually! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucent98 Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just do what I do. Don't step on the brakes? (lol)My 93 Regal went over 50 K on the brakes, except the rear caliper on the passenger side froze up. This is a bigger concern for 89 to 96 cars and I am unsure about the 98 Century. I just wash my wheels as frequently as possible and I got a brush that fits into those small slots in the mag wheels to try and get some soapy water into the calipers. Since my first frozen caliper at 50K, we have put another 80K on the car on the original three calipers. Meanwhile, the parking brake cable to the right rear pass side broke ;ast summer, but it was easy to replace. </div></div>I had a reply written here earlier, but I don't see it now. I almost forgot to check the board again. Anyway 50K doesn't sound bad to me. Did you then replace the pads or just the calipers? You said you've gone another 80K. I take it that you've replaced the pads and shoes since 50K? I hope to get close to that. Someone said they got 90K on same pads. Yeh I hope not to have any caliper problems. That happened once to me on a 78 Olds Cutlass. Only one brake pad wore out and I do mean fast. I also take my car to the car wash and try the best I can to spray off the brake parts ( as much as one can ) and even sometimes try to get the insides of the wheels / brake areas as well. I lot of residue builds up and is hard to get off. I should also get a brush. If the spray wand doesn't do it, I'll have to do it by hand with a rag. Some areas are hard to get to with the sprayer. Good luck. Thanks. BC98 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucent98 Posted March 2, 2004 Author Share Posted March 2, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In most cases, unless you are abusive brake person, or the car sits for long periods of time without being driven, you should get at least 60k miles out of the brakes or more! This is what I have heard or seen. Same goes for tires usually! </div></div> No I really don't like to use my brakes hard at all. Sometimes in the city you never know when you'll hit a yellow light. I try to brake easy and sometimes coast (if no ones behind me ). Question? Why would letting your car sit for long periods affect your brakes? Unless part of it has to do with sitting up too long and the parts become maybe sticky? I don't know. Maybe you could clear that up. I do drive everyday though. Thanks. BC98 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 We bought the car in 93. We didn't have a frozen caliper till 1997. At that time, we did the rear brakes only. In 2000, I put new brakes on my 95 Riviera and likes the performance of the brand, so I tried to match the performance by changing all the pads and rotors on the Regal. I still have three of the original calipers and the one replacement. The car has 139K now. And I am still on the set of yr 2000 pads.By the way, my next door neighbor works at the local independent NAPA. He convinced me to put the softest brake pads on the car that he could get. I did this on my Riviera as well. Thse low cost NAPA pads grip like glue. And apparently wear like cast iron. The advantages have been no rotor warpage, no squealing with brake dust and I think superior braking ability. But the Riviera's system is really superior. That is one of the few cars where I can actually feel the rear wheels bring the car down. I don't know what they did, but the thing does not nose dive with hard braking, it sort of squats down and stops in no time flat. The Regal did not match this performance, but it still stops okay. Of course this is just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivijimi7178 Posted March 24, 2004 Share Posted March 24, 2004 A lot has to do with your driving technique, and driving conditions.Fast hard stops from high speeds, warp rotors.Lots of city stop signs burn up pads.Most of the time you will replace front pads twice, to every rear replacement.Today's rotors are thin.You can cut (resurface) them maybe twice but better to replace w/second set of pads.I do for piece of mind.Hard to put milage on brake life.If in doubt, have a pro check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted March 28, 2004 Share Posted March 28, 2004 It is fairly easy to remove a wheel and look at the amount of pad that remains.New pad are about 1/2 inch thick. If they are riveted, they should be changed before they get down to 3/16, bonded pads can go to 1/8 or less but be careful because all pads do not always wear the same.All owners of cars with ABS should plan on flushing the brake fluid every three years. Everything I read claims DOT 3 fluid absorbs between 1 and 2% moisture per year. Not only does the moisture corrode and rust parts, but the floating corrosion can cause more damage to ABS systems than conventional brakes.The additional problem with moisture in the fluid, it lowers the boiling point.One publication says that 3% moisture lowers the boiling point 25%. The DOT spec on DOT3 specifies that it must have a boiling point of 401 degrees F or more.... 25% reduction is 100 degree loss in boiling point. If you live in hilly country or the mountains, you might see this a brake fade.If you tow a trailer on flat terrain you could see the same problem.The more I read about moisture in the brakes, the more concerned I become with spreading the word. Flush out that old brake fluid every three years......if you live in a high humidity area, do it every two years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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